Jump to content
  • 0

Fitting loose minute hand


Question

Hello,

I have a lovely antique cylinder escapement pocket watch that I've serviced and got running beautifully but now I have a problem with the minute hand falling off. I think it's known as a pin hole fitting hand. On measuring the hand it shows approx. 0.40mm, and then on measuring the arbor diameter with the vernier guage, it's also 0.40mm so it's very near but won't even grip when mounted. Photos provided of the job.

Does anybody have a technique I can use to get the hand to fit?

20200509_164753800_iOS.jpg

20200509_170446185_iOS.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

If a flat hand, I peen the hole, lay a piece of paper on a flat surface, place the hand on it, face down on the paper, you are to peen the back face of the hand, The art of this is to peen without scratching the face of the hand, bending or otherwise damaging it. If the hand is not flat, you should peen each flat side of the back seperately. The paper is obviously to help preserve the plating on the hand. Good luck.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Thanks Nucejoe, I shall try that. To be fair I have nothing to lose. The hand is relatively flat so that’s good.@Watchweasol, I do have a staking set so could try peening gently with one of the larger domed punches.@Rodabod, I’m not 100% sure what the hand is made of. Looks like it could be steel though.

Thanks for the tips!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites


  • Similar Content

    • By HS22SH
      Hi guys,
       
      First proper post on the forum. Thanks again for having me.
       
      Just took receipt of an Omega Chronostop 145.010.   Cracking watch but the hour hand has a lot of crud on it. Just wondering:
       
      1. Is it rust or something else like decayed radium?
      2. Any ideas on how to correct this?   Risk removing the hands and going over it with pegwood or try and track down spare hands (having trouble finding them).
       
      Cheers in Advance,
      C


    • By Graziano
      Quite a rare old watch lever set 18s running very well. 
      Location: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
      Years of Operation: 1868-1886
      Production Jewels: 7-19 Jewels
      Production Sizes: 18s, 16s, 8-6s
      Total Production: ~12,000
      Factory Building Status: Demolished



    • By Extractor
      After having experimented with some very cheap watches I thought it was time to attempt something a little nicer. Bought this silver pocket watch and took it apart. Noticed quite a few of the jewels were shattered so is likely to be beyond my skill set at the moment to restore anyway. Despite that, I decided, probably unwisely, to examine the mainspring and measure it up for a replacement so rendering it useless in the process.
      The measurement I have taken are: 
      Height: 2.6mm Thickness 0.2mm Length: 520mm ID of barrel: 16.5mm Type TR Then I find out there is no replacement to be found in the TR book which I accessed through the Cousins website. Am I not looking properly or have I made a big mistake in assuming a replacement could be found?
      Many thanks.


    • By Amateurwatchbreaker
      I bought a vintage bulova sea king automatic at a antique mall for 80 dollars and I discovered the reason for its lower cost. It appears that it was someone's project watch that they sold. It has a 11 Anacd movement and the rotor is stuck. It can move but it grinds against the metal underneath it. The middle portion of the rotor(with the engraving) is loose and moves independently of the rest of the rotor. I have no clue how to remove the rotor as there are no screws on it. Is this a deeper problem than just the rotor or can I fix/ replace the rotor?



    • By Amateurwatchbreaker
      I have a watch movement that I have hunting for a case for a long time now. I bought the movement rather cheaply as I absolutely love the patina on the dial. The movement is an Wittnauer 11arg (as 1361). When the rotor turns the automatic assembly slips (or maybe the mainspring). The pictured gear slips when the rotor turns. I can still wind the movement by hand however the automatic assembly slipping I believe causes the mainspring to unwind. Does anyone know what is wrong/ what I can do to remedy it?
      Thanks for your help,
      Amateurwatchbreaker


  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I think Earl Gray is an acquired taste. I hated it when I first tried it. Now I find it tolerable. Eventually I might find it ok. 😂 But what do you think of tea used in confections and other foods. Like matcha cakes 😖, Earl Gray cheesecake 🤪, duck smoked with tea leaves 🤔, etc...?
    • Hello Not really a watch question, however I thought I would it it a try. I have a couple of Silver Beer Mugs that are tarnished and all I have to clean them with is the L & R Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Solution (ammoniated) and a ultrasonic machine. I also have the L & R Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Solution and an Ultrasonic machine. Does anyone know if I can use these two products on the silver beer mugs or should I get another type of cleaner> Also should I be diluting the cleaning and rinse solutions?  Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided. Michael
    • Hi JDM - Thanks for the detailed reply. The Bezel only looks like a rotating time ring, but it's just a "faux" divers watch, only rated to 50m. I think the Seiko "Solar Power" version actually had a rotating ring and Tritium on the hands and numbers and was rated to 200m or something. But, the bezel is fixed. Also, there are no "indent" or any indication that you could use a Snap Back knife to open the bezel. If this is not indeed a screw off bezel (using a screw type base wrench), then a 4 blade bezel tool is likely the only thing that will remove it. Then I'll need to figure out how the stem is removed so I can remove the whole movement to get to the Cap which I assume is underneath. Other owners on some other watch forums have reported the same experience I had with my Lorus/ Seiko 851 model, the Capacitor fails after only 8 to 10 years and nothing like the "promised" 80 years (Life Time Warranty they refuse to obey). Quite a few owners wrote that they had the Capacitor replaced, but no details on HOW. Read my response above to "watchweasol". There's been some conflict about which capacitor to use as well since the original 2023 24T / MT920 was discontinued 30 years ago (probably the reason all these Lorus Solar watch never met the 80-year promise. Supposedly the replacement Cap is a 3023 24T now. The word in some forums is that this Maxell Cap will last 30 to 40 years. The Seiko Kenetic watches supposedly also use this same Capacitor. Have you ever worked on the Seiko Solar version of this Lorus? Thanks.    
    • @watchweasol - I  know that was the Seiko "company line" for both the Seiko and Lorus branded "Solar Power" versions, but there are an awful lot of folks that bought both and found the Capacitor died, like mine, only after 8 to 10 years and did have the Capacitor replaced with at first the original 2023 24T version and then the 3023 24T, which is apparently a much longer lived replacement. Seiko's "promise" of an 80-year life for this Capacitor was all hooey and likely the reason Seiko quickly dropped both their own branded model and the Lorus ones after just 10 years on the market. Both Seiko and Lorus (who is no longer in North America) refuse to honor the "life time" warranty. One of the reasons I now trust Casio more than Seiko for warranty promises. The movement in the Lorus is literally the exact same one that was in the 3 "Solar Power" Seiko mens models, a Seiko NA tech admitted that to me almost 30 years ago when mine stopped charging. I bought it new in 1986 or 87, and I still have the original paper manual and box and "Life Time Warranty" card (good for nuthin'). I've been a watch and clock "collector" since a teenager, prefer early American pocket watches, but who doesn't love early American MADE and Japanese and Swiss made wristwatches? So I've also collected all the tools a watch and clock tech uses, many pretty vintage too, and learned how to work to a certain degree on most any watch or clock, restoring and fixing, to my limits. I already have that (another version) Bezel removing tool, am just trying to confirm that the bezel is NOT a screw on, or absolutely IS a press-fit. Was hoping to find someone that has either worked on the Lorus version or the sort of same looking Seiko versions that also had the one-piece "tub" body. The Bezel only looks like a rotating time ring, but it's just a "faux" divers watch, only rated to 50m. I think the Seiko version actually had a rotating ring and Tritium on the hands and numbers and was rated to 200m or something. This Lorus/Seiko is an odd-ball and there is absolutely no repair info on them, so that makes me want to fix it more myself.
    • Very, very nice production.  Really outstanding walkthrough!
×
×
  • Create New...