Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All

This is an FHF 28.  I'm a beginner and haven't worked with this type of jewel where the cap is screwed in.  There's an oil cup on the other side of the plate.  This is for the escape wheel.  What gets oiled?  The screw in cap or the oil cup or both?  

Thank you

Charlie

 

IMG_4330.thumb.JPG.0dc2c4f02ec661ead57a3a8013efd74b.JPG

Posted
3 minutes ago, rogart63 said:

You place a small drop on the endcap . It will spread out when you put it back on. 

Thanks for the quick reply!

Posted

Thank you for pointing out that issue.  It would not have occurred to me.  
 

congratulations on restoring your grandfathers watch.  I have my grandfathers pocket watch inscribed Christmas 1915.  It’s pretty far gone but I hope to restore after a few more years of learning.

Posted
On 12/18/2019 at 4:23 PM, rogart63 said:

You place a small drop on the endcap . It will spread out when you put it back on. 

He will also need to oil the pivot jewel holes, if he is using the correct synthetic oil like moebius it does not spread when applied correctly with the correct amount. Spreading is one of the reasons why synthetic oils were invented. Spreading is the one thing we don’t want when we oil a jewel. Too much oil and it will just get whisked away by the pivot. By putting the cap jewel back on it will just flatten the oil bead but it wont make its way into the pivot hole. Again assuming he is using synthetic oils. Hopefully 9010 on the escape.

Posted
46 minutes ago, saswatch88 said:

He will also need to oil the pivot jewel holes,

The BHI document says not to do this. Part of the point of oiling the cap jewel is to get a very small controlled quanity of oil just on the pivot. Putting oil into the jewel hole as well would likely result in too much oil which would then get drawn down the pivot onto the staff.

It’s more critical on the balance, but still important on the escape wheel not to have too much oil.

Posted
12 hours ago, StuartBaker104 said:

The BHI document says not to do this. Part of the point of oiling the cap jewel is to get a very small controlled quanity of oil just on the pivot. Putting oil into the jewel hole as well would likely result in too much oil which would then get drawn down the pivot onto the staff.

It’s more critical on the balance, but still important on the escape wheel not to have too much oil.

I can’t imagine oil spreading onto the staff with proper oiling and using synthetic oils. If you are worried about it then you can use epilame/fix a drop. I would not feel comfortable with a dry pivot hole under any circumstance, esp on a balance or escapement.

Posted

The standard technique for oiling these, as well as non shock protected balance jewels, is to assemble the cap, put oil in the cup of the underside of the hole jewel, then feed it through with a fine taper pin. It's in numerous texts and is how it's taught in school. You continue to add oil and feed it through (usually it sucks in after the first pin feed) until you have a correct circle of oil showing on the cap jewel.

Oiling before assembly runs a great risk of smearing it elsewhere, which really requires a full cleaning of the components then. Dabbing with Rodico is not nearly enough.

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, nickelsilver said:

The standard technique for oiling these, as well as non shock protected balance jewels, is to assemble the cap, put oil in the cup of the underside of the hole jewel, then feed it through with a fine taper pin. It's in numerous texts and is how it's taught in school. You continue to add oil and feed it through (usually it sucks in after the first pin feed) until you have a correct circle of oil showing on the cap jewel.

Oiling before assembly runs a great risk of smearing it elsewhere, which really requires a full cleaning of the components then. Dabbing with Rodico is not nearly enough.

That’s actually how i do it now, because i have seen marks videos and he oils the cap jewels then the pivots before assembly and if you don’t get the cap jewel in perfect the first time it smears and gets oils around the cock hole. I use the Bergeon automatic oilers for this and I don’t need a pin, i can see the bead form on the cap jewel with the microscope.

Edited by saswatch88
Posted
7 hours ago, jaycey said:

There is an auto-oiler that does this with the minimal of fuss. Well apart from the extortionate price of the oiler:wacko:

Honestly best $80 bucks ever spent, all you need is one, the full set is unnecessary 

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello and welcome to the fo4um. Enjoy
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy.
    • You're asking a pretty broad question and you didn't specify the machine but yes it's simple especially if you have the right machine. The question has problems but I'll take it as it is. Is it really that simple yes especially if you have the right machine. So in the video below he's making a screw and yes it really is that simple but pay attention to the machine it is not simple at all probably wasn't cheap but it is small it will probably fit in your garage. Unfortunately wouldn't fit in my garage as it's far too cluttered up with things. In the video he talks about making a screw and pay attention to the machine. The machine has lots and lots and lots of cutters and lots of things to do lots of machining all-in-one machine conceivably one step after another all programmable. If you look at his channel lots of CNC's stuff and there are several other videos related to this machine. He goes to the factory where they talk about it and show all the other machines they make in Switzerland.  I did look up the specifications the machine I don't recall the price it's not going to cut wheels I think it has a maximum diameter around 11 mm basically it's really good for making small diameter watch parts. Then in one of the other videos he goes to a factory that used to make parts with waterpowered machinery been in business for 100 years and everything they now make is made with CNC machines including this one. What was interesting with the factory photo was that when they make some parts they can put them on a optical comparator comparator compares with whatever the reference is and the machine can be programmed to adjust its cutting to make sure everything is actually being made to specifications. Oh and then somewhere in all of this there was at least one picture of a balance staff can't have a CNC Swiss machine without making balance staffs.   It would be really nice if we had pictures of the machine. Then yes if you look at the page for wheel cutting you can enter parameters and it will generate a G code but he left out things? Notice he has a picture of a complete wheel but the G code isn't making a complete wheel it's only cutting the gear teeth I don't see whereas the program for crossing out the spokes? Typically when you see people cutting gears once the teeth are cut most the time the spokes are cut by hand. Occasionally someone will mill them out but typically not with the program which seems strange if you have CNC capability for instance one of my friends fill it used to design assembly line equipment or things to make things. So his hobby was to continue to make tools to make things like clocks. Very interesting and clever clocks but his true fund was making the machines to make the clocks. Then machine is not controlled by G code like we would typically find today as the stepping motor controller he has was made a long time ago and the individual controllers used a textbased program. So the company had a editor you could write a program to cause each the stepping motors to do something. So basically once you figure out how to cut a gear he would just change the parameters for different size gears so here's an example of a gear as you can see we have the teeth and the spokes. Then we have a picture the machine which sucks because it would've been so much nicer if I could've taken a picture when it was cutting a gears so we can see things better. Then yes there is a worm gear stepping motor indexing this is a mini lathe and the indexing is at the end of the lathe head hiding. The basic operation of this machine would be brass sheet not cut to a specific diameter size not even round mounted on the machine. Then it turns and a milling cutter will cut the diameter. Then the gear would be cut with a gear cutter. The same mill cutter for the diameter although conceivably change the size I don't know but basically the same milling for cutting the outer diameter would be used to cut the spokes. I really can't remember how he did the center hole but whatever it was was very precise.          
    • Yeah I know the site and the creator of it.  the two video clips are good examples of the quicker method and a full tear down.  the quick method will work in many cases. But not always and not for all the different movements.  I strongly suggest to not bend the four tabs as was done in the first clip.  Instead there are three tabs that insert into the top plate, Much saver way as to not break a tab.
    • I found a motor that is 3/4 hp and another that is 1.2hp. They come with speed controller. So I don’t think I would need a wiring diagram. But I sure appreciate you offering your help! Do you think 1.2 hp would be too much for a watchmaker’s lathe?
×
×
  • Create New...