Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi Guys, 

Hope this finds all well, i have started disassembling a rotary watch with a skeleton movement and a tiny part fell out of the movement which i was not in time to take a picture. If anyone has ever worked on similar movement and know where it belongs i will appreciate your help.

Pictures attached.

Thank you in advance. 

Vladimir.

 

IMG_20190917_204048.jpg

IMG_20190917_204256.jpg

IMG_20190917_204324.jpg

Posted (edited)

That looks suspiciously  like a PTS Hangzhou, one of the most common Chinese skeletonized movements.

image.png.4c4369d4c4a07d211c044bab4852ef63.png

Something like the one above. You may find some info here ->

http://www.ptsresources.com/watch_handwinding_01.htm

and here ->

https://www.rwg.bz/board/index.php?/topic/808-chinese-watch-movement-information/

If you can identify the exact caliber, then you may be able to track down a datasheet, or perhaps a tear down video.

They are in my opinion, reasonable quality, so worth repairing.

Edited by AndyHull
  • Like 1
Posted

The "small part" looks most likely to be from the keyless work, and looks to have been held in place by a screw.
Is the movement an automatic or manual wind?

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi  Once again Andy is on the mark, The chinese produce quite a few skeleton movements, which one this is, we really need the calibre to be able to identify the bit. I doe's look as though it was at some time screwed down, the screw may yet be lodged in the works some where.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi further research turns up rotary using the Hangzhou HZ2189 movement but also they used seagull movements of which there are a lot of both makes on the market. Will continue to look

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, AndyHull said:

The "small part" looks most likely to be from the keyless work, and looks to have been held in place by a screw.
Is the movement an automatic or manual wind?

Hi AndyHull,

It is an automatic movement.

Thanks.

Vladimir.

Posted
56 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi further research turns up rotary using the Hangzhou HZ2189 movement but also they used seagull movements of which there are a lot of both makes on the market. Will continue to look

Hi watchweasol,

Thanks a lot for you dedication,  it seems that is the right movement reference. I could establish that the same movement is used in some Shurling Watches (Alpine model).

thank you all for your patience.

Regards,

Posted
5 hours ago, AndyHull said:

The "small part" looks most likely to be from the keyless work, and looks to have been held in place by a screw.
Is the movement an automatic or manual wind?

 Hi AndyHull,

it is automatic...

thanks...

Regards,

Posted (edited)

That part number -  CH2189W - seems to turn up quite a lot of info too. 

It is not uncommon for the same, or similar movements to be listed with different part numbers by different suppliers, and for the same or similar Chinese movements to be produced by more than one manufacturer.

Edited by AndyHull
Posted (edited)

Could it be a (broken) click? It's similar to the Seiko click designs in some movements like 6119, and now that AndyHull has shown the movement there are quite a few parts that are also like the Seiko, for example the second reduction wheel and the pawl levers on the automatic mechanism. And I can see the click is also Seiko style.

EDIT: This is a Seiko 6119 click

click.jpg

Edited by aac58
Posted

I'm pretty sure it's a spring for a wig-wag style reversing wheel. Is this a unidirectional automatic winding movement? These movements can come with a variety of automatic mechanisms.

Posted

Those pawl levers (aka Magic Levers) translates the movement of the rotor in any direction to an anticlockwise movement on the second reduction wheel (the wheel with the left-handed screw) Then it is transfered to the rachet wheel and then to the main spring.

The click is between the rachet wheel (golden coloured wheel in the AndyHull photo) and the barrel below it, and I think this click could be the part you found.

But, if it is the click, where is the screw that was holding it in place? And the rest of the click?

With the 2nd reduction wheel removed, you can test if there is a working click by trying to wind the movement via the rachet wheel screw and see it the MS holds the tension.

Posted
1 hour ago, aac58 said:

Those pawl levers (aka Magic Levers) translates the movement of the rotor in any direction to an anticlockwise movement on the second reduction wheel (the wheel with the left-handed screw) Then it is transfered to the rachet wheel and then to the main spring.

The click is between the rachet wheel (golden coloured wheel in the AndyHull photo) and the barrel below it, and I think this click could be the part you found.

 But, if it is the click, where is the screw that was holding it in place? And the rest of the click?

With the 2nd reduction wheel removed, you can test if there is a working click by trying to wind the movement via the rachet wheel screw and see it the MS holds the tension.

Hi aac58,

thank you so much for the detailed explanation... it helped a lot locating where it goes..

Regards,

Posted

Hi All,

I am very overwhelmed with all the replies that was provided, thanks a lot for everybody that had an input on this, really appreciated it.

Regards,

  • Thanks 1
  • 3 years later...
Posted

I have the same movement with the exact same problem.... found this little part appear on my desk top with no idea where it came from. Now I know..... but any ideas what it is there for? Iput the watch back together and it seemed to work fine, but after an hour or two it kept stopping and would re-start if I gave it a little shake... only so stop again in a few hours more. Could leaving this part out be related to the stopping issue. I'll put the part back now I know where it goes, but just wondered if the stopping is related to this part?

Posted

Given that the part was originally held in with a small screw, it is possible that the small screw is somewhere in the works, causing issues. Did you do a full strip and rebuild? What is the amplitude like? It sounds more like dirt on one of the teeth, play in something, or a worn barrel bearing or something similar rather than that mystery part, that is causing your issue.



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • A little bit of superglue and you'll be good to go Although maybe if you had a laser welder you can weld the spring back together. Typically I've only seen it on blued steel Springs and on one occasion a modern spring? The modern watch was a Rolex watch that came and that was literally filled with rust including the barrel was filled with rust in the spring was in a whole bunch of little pieces. I have to wonder if that was an aftermarket mainspring . Then I'm attaching a PDF the Elgin watch company as you can see instigated a study in the 30s find out why mainsprings were breaking. I do though wonder if perhaps there may be a flaw in their study? One other things I wonder about is the metallurgy of the early steel Springs versus the later generation of blued steel Springs whether the metallurgy as part of the problem but in a case they did a study and have attaching a PDF. Because of the study any time I do anything with the blued steel spring when I actually cannot get something that's not blued. Once the spring is cleaned I'm very careful to not to touch the spring with my fingers because I don't want to have a problem with the chemicals on your fingers causing rust and I very carefully get lubrication back on the spring as fast as possible just to avoid these unpleasant situations. Then yes it is interesting one minute you of functional spring and the next minute you have lots of little pieces of spring. For my own personal Elgin pocket watch I put a steel spring and in this happened I'm also guessing that when one layer breaks it sends a cascading shockwave through the spring and that's why it breaks all the way across because after all there is a lot of energy in the spring when it breaks. Oh and my theory on the metallurgy is based on things have improved and for the most part I don't think I've seen a shattered spring in quite some time.   Elgin_Mainsprings.PDF
    • Hi all A bit of an off chance one but has anyone got any links to suppliers of Conversion cases, to adapt pocket watch movements to wrist watches. I have a couple of movements and bring in the UK there is little chance of finding a replacement case so thought about converting them to wrist watches, I have seen loads of converted watches for sale so there must be a supplier somewhere, anyone know of a supplier. Thanks Paul
    • Thank you very much. I routinely harvest these strips so will be able to attempt a repair - much more interesting & potentially satisfying than acquiring a new replacement item.
    • Have you ever noticed in the parts list that the hairspring is not available separately? At least typically not available separately. The reason for that is every single hairspring for the most part was specifically vibrated for the balance wheel it is on. So as you can see moving a hairspring from one balance wheel to another does not necessarily work but 15 minutes is definitely manageable If? I see the balance wheel has screws? Providing there really screws in other words you could unscrew them then there is a solution to the problem providing they hairspring actually does fit perfectly in the regulators where it's supposed to be etc. for balance wheels that are running too fast that have screws timing washers can be purchased? Okay the much harder to find than the used to be look on eBay typically a find assortments should be easier for wristwatch size versus pocket watch size. The washers go on as pairs one on each side you do not want to have two washers per screw you ideally want to only have one washer. Typically at least the ones I use are rated in one, two and three minutes per day but despite having a this works for the size it's not an exact you have to try them. Than ours with a few timing washers you could slow this thing down here is an image I found online to show you what it looks like. So basically is unscrew your screw but that little tiny washer on and struck back in again and try not to break the screw head off. Lot of time screws it up and played with before the screws do not like the unscrew and will break off that is very undesirable. Oh and if you would like to get a new skill set you could conceivably find a new collet for your old hairspring carefully unpin it and re-pin it. But that kinda hairspring manipulation is not easy but it could be done.  
    • There was glue in the chaton - I took apart the whole balance and soaked  everything except the balance wheel in acetone before washing it properly in IPA
×
×
  • Create New...