Jump to content

Is it me or is it bergeon


Recommended Posts

So I need to wind in a left handed mainspring but I only have right in my favourite set, I go to cousins and order a left handed arbor hoping it will fit and joy of joys it fits perfectly what a result I think.  I start winding and get a third of the way before this happens, it keeps slipping on the arbor and the reason is bergeon have put a flat cutout on the arbor instead of leaving it round so as you can see it does not quite catch the notch, I have been trying for an hour and a half to get this to catch by trying to bend the end of the spring but if I keep going I know my luck will run out and it will snap and it will be another visit to cousins and £22 for a new spring and I will still have the same problem so why oh why would they put that cutout in. Is it me or is it bergeon .

8FD0BBE1-3FD2-48D2-A691-D5140891C924.jpeg

7EBC7300-7670-4A21-A9D1-A8BE10A75804.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The price might not of gone down on Bergeon tools, but it does seem the quality has.

I guess part of it must be economies of scale. How many watchmakers bought tools from Bergeon 30 years ago compared to today?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The handle you purchased with the recess is the way it's supposed to be made. There designed specifically for NIVAFLEX Mainsprings which require a recess. Then there was the older style that doesn't have a recess which was made for the blued steel Springs as the modern style won't work with those at all.  The problem is the Swiss assumption that all modern Springs are exactly the same leads to problems with the handles not always working.

Then hand winding mainsprings is generally frowned upon in modern watch repair unfortunately sometimes it's necessary.

NIVAFLEX mainspring.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At least I got it done in the end, I have tried hand winding before but I can never do it and my old favourite set has never let me down. It was only the fact that I was servicing a seiko bell Matic that I needed a left hand winder, last time I used the old put it in a washer trick and turn it over method but even that let me down this time,I just couldn’t do it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As with every skill it watchmaking, it takes practice. Notice at the top of the document it says, "Practical work - 40 hours".  I can get the balance wheels 'close enough' to flat, but never seem to get them perfect. Same with gear wheels. Guess I need more practice.
    • Has it got a beat adjustment on the platform or is it a fixed hairspring? in short what you are looking at to get it just about in beat is to get the roller jewel sitting dead centre between the banking pins. So remove the platform and take of the pallet fork and escape wheel to give you clear line of site, sit the platform with the balance in place and with it level look between the banking pins and see if the roller jewel is sitting between them, if it is nice and central its there or there abouts in beat, if its not the the position of the pinned end of the hairspring needs to be adjusted to move the roller jewel into the correct position, thats why I asked if it has an adjustment on the platform or not, if it has its an easier job. 
    • I've managed to adjust it. I'm going to try and explain it as well as I can with my limited horology knowledge but I hope it helps someone in the future. There is a cam to the right of the front plate as shown in the picture. As the clock ticks along, the pin indicated in the gear comes around and slots into one of the silencer cam gaps, turning the cam. The pin completes a full rotation in 2 hours. To adjust the cam to start at the right time set the clock to just before 7. I did 6:45. Then I turned the silencer cam anticlockwise, which spins freely, until it pushed the silencer lever up and was placed just before the drop. Just before the 7AM indicated in the picture. All I then had to do was progress the hands to 7-7:15which made the pin slot into the silencer cam gap and turn the cam so the lever comes down again, unsilencing the clock. That was it. If anyone comes across this issue again I'd be happy to assist. Thanks again to everyone that helped. Hey Transporter! Thanks a lot for the reply. That was a really good explanation and I'm sure it would have made my troubleshooting a lot less painful haha. I'm sure someone will find it useful in the future. Thank you again for taking the time to try and help me out with this.
    • Now I'm completely confused, it would appear that the epilame  is oleophobic  as @Marc states: This oleophobic  behavior can be seen as beading of the droplet (as above) which stops the oil spreading which is supported by what we observe on treated/untreated cap stones (for example), but as @VWatchie states this should make the drops more mobile and is supported by the literature:   A review on control of droplet motion based on wettability modulation principles design strategies recent progress and applications.pdf   However the hole point is that we have less mobile oil so an oleophobic  would see to be the opposite of what we want. In fact this beading and high mobility are desirable properties in things like smart phone covers, see below.  I am fairly sure that epilame doesn't make the droplets more mobile, so maybe its a strange coating with dual properties that are both oleophobic (beading) and cohesive/adhesive resulting in low mobility?? This may explain the high price??  
    • The description there is exactly how it's done, and it's very well written!
×
×
  • Create New...