Jump to content

Lubricants to use with Rolex 3135


Recommended Posts

Would the below list of lubricants be suitable for the Rolex cal.3135 (clone) movement?

 

93e7d4d72eb0dd145c6dfb2e2b5f98ce.jpg

 

For the grease (cannon pinion, keyless) would you prefer to use 9501 or 9504 the moebius chart recommends either.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is from my post a few years ago (2015). If I remember correctly I used all of my suggested lubricants and the watch worked great. However after approx. six months the auto part stopped working efficiently. I re cleaned treated the wheels with epilame (fixodrop) and lubed with HP 500. Since then it has not been off my wrist part from bath time.

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The epilame is really key, you have to do it. It's a weird quirk of an otherwise bulletproof movement. I think you could use pretty much any synthetic lube and it'd survive as long as you epilame the reversers.


Thanks nick I will look into it. It’s not something I’ve done before


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/15/2019 at 12:44 AM, matabog said:

Lubetta V105 on the reversers instead of Epilame?

Reversers are interesting for lubrication. Some of them you can use the Lubetta V105 Which is basically an oil like 9010 dissolved in a solvent. But Rolex in their tech sheet shows that lubrication only wants to be in a very specific location and nowhere else. So that's why the recommending the surface treatment to keep the oil from spreading.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/17/2019 at 3:04 PM, matabog said:

I might have been wrong. I had the ETA reversers in my had. I think the rolex ones can be 'dismantled'. So after Epilame, where would you oil those reversers? And with what?

Lubetta V105 was developed I believe by ETA. The Rolex reverse wheels are of a different design. Lubetta I think is  lubricant. Most odd the Rolex reverse wheels have not lubrication.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/16/2019 at 8:47 AM, JohnR725 said:

Reversers are interesting for lubrication. Some of them you can use the Lubetta V105 Which is basically an oil like 9010 dissolved in a solvent. But Rolex in their tech sheet shows that lubrication only wants to be in a very specific location and nowhere else. So that's why the recommending the surface treatment to keep the oil from spreading.

@JohnR725 So are the reverser wheels oiled on there edges or not ? The diagram shows 'do not oil', in which case what's the point of the epilame? 

I notice that Mark applies a drop of something to the edge of the wheel ( 7min  50s) :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8WNrtahT4Q

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/25/2020 at 11:13 AM, mikepilk said:

 So are the reverser wheels oiled on there edges or not ? The diagram shows 'do not oil', in which case what's the point of the epilame? 

My understanding is that the clicks or whatever they're called in the reversers have to be absolutely free to move and lubrication would Interfere with that. So epilame treatment is applied to keep lubrication away.  Notice they're using HP 1000 on the center part and there would be a likelihood without surface treatment of that spreading out.

Then you're absolutely correct in the video Mark applies a drop of lubrication on the reverser wheels which by theory would spread to the little clicks and interfere with how they work. But this is lubrication in horology everyone has a different idea if it works for Mark and long term it works for Mark then?

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The reverser wheels MUST be treated with " Epilame" if not after a while the auto stops functioning correctly. I speak from experience. PS I used HP500 for the reverser parts with no issues the watch has not been off my wrist (apart from bath time) for 4 years now.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, clockboy said:

The reverser wheels MUST be treated with " Epilame" if not after a while the auto stops functioning correctly. I speak from experience. PS I used HP500 for the reverser parts with no issues the watch has not been off my wrist (apart from bath time) for 4 years now.

@clockboy do you know how long Epilame lasts? And what will dissolve it. Naptha, isopropanol?

I'm about to service a friends 2230 movement which has never been serviced :thumbsd:

And I'm not planning on buying any Epilame just for that! 

(I wonder if there are any cheaper alternatives to Epilame. Mobile phone screens use an oleophobic coating which can be renewed with a wipe on liquid) 

Edited by mikepilk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, nickelsilver said:
12 hours ago, mikepilk said:
I wondered if i clean in naptha then isopropanol it will remove the epilame

It might. It's really critical that they are epilamed, so try to get some. You can't really over epilame, but on these Rolexes you can definitely under epilame.

You have convinced me. I managed to buy just 5ml 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks Ross, yes i remember the broken arbor screw you had to deal with. Dont give up, if i can drill a tiny hole in a bloody hard barrel arbor without breaking the drill bit then you'll get that screw out one day somehow .
    • Isn't it most correct to say that the mixture of radium decay pathway compounds found in old lume will produce both alpha and beta particle radiation as well as gamma rays, so it's over-simplistic to dismiss it all as low-energy particle emission? True, a cheap geiger counter chirping away with a raw CPM count won't specifically give you the relevant biological dose, but it makes it easy to tell the difference between your local background, a watch with a bit of activity, and one that is comparatively quite active. Each person can make their own risk analysis based on their understanding and concern, but there's nothing wrong with using an inexpensive meter to help make the determination.
    • A lesson I learned last month on a Junghans pocket watch where both pins were bent over like stalks of wheat in the wind. I bent them back straight, wondering what a shock the thing must have taken to somehow bend even the outside pin over. And then the escapement wouldn't unlock at all. Probably the pallet stones are too long but I'm not ready for that repair yet so I bent the pins back over and it runs 0/0.2
    • Never. Brilliant work and photographs. Thank you. On my very first watch I knackered the arbour. I think the screw I put in was the crown screw. I didn't know about left handed screws then. Head sheared off. Thread broken just below surface. If I had the space, then a lathe would be my wished purchase. 2 1/2 years later and I still get the arbour out now and again and...... I can dream. It's a lovely pocket watch. Ah well. 
    • Hello Davis. This thread is interesting. Thought I'd add my twopenneth worth. A short while ago I had a similar problem to you. Not a broken banking pin, but I did alter a banking pin. Much to the consternation of members. Rightly so. However I did as they suggested and obtained a complete donor movement and installed it into the watch. The client, who I did not charge but did the work as a project for myself, was as happy as Larry.  Can you not look for watch of the same name? A Donor watch or movement.  Keep us posted on your result please.
×
×
  • Create New...