Jump to content

Tension v non tension crystals


Lc130

Recommended Posts

HI All

I'm having trouble finding any type of basic guide to crystals.  Some old scratched ones that I remove have a metal insert and I believe that these are called tension rings.  Is that correct?  Are they also referred to as "armored"?  Some old crystals have no ring.  Question:  if I had just a case without the old crystal how would I know if I needed a replacement with or without the tension ring?  Are they interchangeable? Can I use the crystal claw for either or is a press needed?

Thank you

Charlie

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tension ring (armored) crystals are straight sided, and need to be pressed in. The non-tension ring, or wedge-ledge or whatever the given manufacturer calls them, need to be compressed to snap in. Either the claw tool or a crystal press with a cupped die and pusher for the center of the (interior) of the crystal will work. They aren't interchangeable- though that hasn't stopped people from trying!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you.  Would a GS crystal "ET EVR-TITE"  described as "waterproof with white or yellow rings" be a tension ring.  This is for a late 60's early 70's Seiko 5 with a 6119A movement.  Ordering parts appears to be a hi-level skill in itself!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a note on the claw. If you don't have one already, I'd put off ordering them. They only work with crystals with very vertical, tall sides. In every case I've tried to use one, it's failed, and I've ended up using my press instead. I'm sure there's some situation where they are the better tool, but I haven't found it yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a note on the claw. If you don't have one already, I'd put off ordering them. They only work with crystals with very vertical, tall sides. In every case I've tried to use one, it's failed, and I've ended up using my press instead. I'm sure there's some situation where they are the better tool, but I haven't found it yet.




I agree. The claw is ideal for non-waterproof crystals that have a a nice tall side wall for the claw to have a good purchase. Those crystals are thinner and easier to compress, mostly I. Dress watches of chronos. I can’t see how the claw could compress a thick water-proof crystal enough to fit in the case. The press is definitely the way to go.

Now there are presses and there are presses! The cheaper you go, the less they pushers align and the higher the risk of cracking crystals.

Cheers!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did buy a Bergeon claw.  As mentioned, it sometimes has a trouble grasping.  I concentrate on wrist watches from the 60s and 70s.  Not sure what qualifies as vintage.

Edited by Lc130
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a "claw" for compressible crystals. it is in my opinion an excellent tool. I don't have a crystal press, I use my drill press. With the socket from my tool chest that most closely matches the crystal diameter. A plastic bag prevents scratches... All the leverage you could ever need.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have both :

crystal press (since a few months)

- crystal claw (since this morning)

 

I use crystal press to fit all plexis that come "over a rehaut" (vintage Rolex & Tudor style), fixed bezel, retaining rings and crystals fitted with a gasket.

Until today I managed to remove other plexis with a press and to put them back using the hot/cold method (watch case in a cool oven and plexi in the freezer) ... but I cracked some plexi and I even had problem with armored crystals.

 

So I ordered a crystal claw, received it today and tried it on a vintage diver with an armoured plexi.

It worked perfectly (the crack you can see on the plexi was already there when I got the watch) so I'm really happy with that new tool.

 

tqtvf.jpg

 

tq4qX.jpg

 

tqrep.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • No matter what I did, I could not get the amplitude more than 240 deg. At least there is 0.2 beat error and minus 1-2 s/d.  So, probably not the happy end I would have hoped for, but still I think the watch turned out quite nice. You be the judge of that. Thank you everyone for your help!  
    • its used to lengthen or shorten the suspension spring from the front f the clock dial, this in turn will give regulation to the clock. Try inserting a pocket watch key or even better the double ended key for the clock into the small aperture on the dial at the top and turning it, you will see the suspension block either raise or lower. If it raises the clock will run faster if it lowers the clock will run slower
    • Grateful for info regarding the nature & function of the horizontal cog and the unit it's on top of in the picture. It meshes with a vertical cog (enclosed in the unit) on the arbour which is supported at its other end by the back plate of the dial unit to which it is not quite perpendicular...
    • does anyone knows what type of battery this digital Watch takes?  
    • Hello good watch folk ,I  just fancied a light hearted discussion after my head was starting to spin over Epilame 😅. Specifically I'm meaning the sale of vintage watches, say nothing past the 1980s market. The stuff we see on ebay and other similar sites and found at carboots, curio shops etc. And are  we thinking its reaching a peak volume ?  Younger generations clearing out passed parents and grandparents possessions.  The younger folk are not as sentimental as the old fogies ( I'm now nearly at an age that i used to think was old fogie age ). When might it have started ?  i often wish i discovered the hobby much much sooner when selling your grandfathers pocket watch at a boot sale for a few quid was just a way to offload some tat. And when might it slow down. Thoughts anyone ?
×
×
  • Create New...