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qhartman

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Everything posted by qhartman

  1. Man, stop giving me ideas like that! You're going to get me in trouble! Seriously though, I need to get a lot further a long my journey before I even consider something like that! If I wreck a $50 mass-produced clone movement that's disappointing, if I wreck this one that would be a disaster!
  2. This listing just came up on the Reddit Watch exchange sub: The piece looks really beautiful, but it's not likely to sell in that crowd, as very few people over there are interested in pieces that need work. Since it's in the UK and there are so many of you folks in here, I thought one of you might be interested. I would pick it up myself if I thought my skills were up to it, but I'm not there yet!
  3. Newbie here, but I'm wondering if the slight increase in thickness compensates for the slightly reduced length? Also, what is the "9.0" in this measurement? I'm guessing is has to do with how much is reverse-coiled? EDIT - Finally found that it looks like it's the intended barrel diameter. Is that correct?
  4. If no one here has anything, may want to also ask in the Seiko subreddit. There's lots of dedicated Seiko collectors over there who might have something lying around.
  5. I would guess that there is a flaw in one of the gear train gears that correlates to that time that is causing it to get hung up. but that's just a guess, and I'm still a noob around this stuff. I'm imagining a slightly bent tooth that grabs on a plate or something. As an aside, that is a super cool watch, I hope you get it going 100%. Any interest in selling it if you do? I love old Hammies.
  6. Oh, and of course you could always go with a NATO or ZULU strap. I imagine a nice distressed leather one would look sharp on that watch.
  7. There are a bunch of options here: https://www.watch-band-center.com/watchstrap-h175-Open-End-Watch-Bands.html I'd be inclined to go with one of the Hirsch though. You know you're getting quality, and it's got to be worth $40 to have something proper for an heirloom you've already put so much effort into.
  8. Just a note on the claw. If you don't have one already, I'd put off ordering them. They only work with crystals with very vertical, tall sides. In every case I've tried to use one, it's failed, and I've ended up using my press instead. I'm sure there's some situation where they are the better tool, but I haven't found it yet.
  9. They are replaceable, though I don't know the details of how it's done as I'm also a newbie. Here's one possible source for parts: https://www.esslinger.com/hole-jewel-assortment-for-watches-100-pc/
  10. Here's another similar part on the 6119C:
  11. This is a different movement, a 6138 I think, but I wonder if it serves a similar purpose as the plate I pointed out with the red arrow? That would explain the wear pattern, and it looks like it might fit there:
  12. Looking closer on the wear on the back of the piece, it looks like the pattern there is about the same size as the center wheel, if you set it so the cannon pinon pokes up in the indent on the side. I have a hard time imagining what that would be for there, but I wonder if those wear patterns might give you more clues if that's not a fit.
  13. This looks like a list of all the service manuals for Seikos, and all three variants of the 6119 are there: https://www.thewatchsite.com/14-user-manual-technical-manual-casing-guide-downloads/15-seiko-calibers-technical-repair-manuals.html EDIT - Dang, doesn't look like there's much useful info there....
  14. This video claims to be a 6119 teardown: You can probably get some good clues there.
  15. It should just pop off with a little push from a pair of tweezers or similar. You can see a complete teardown of a similar movement here:
  16. If you do decide to go the DIY route, I'd suggest chucking the nail into a drill (ideally drill press) and turning it down against sandpaper. You'll get better results than trying to do it against a grinder. It's all but impossible to get something with a perfectly round cross-section by hand with a grinder.
  17. Looks like a tension ring from the crystal in that got left behind when you popped it out. These are also called "armored crystals".
  18. I have sort of the inverted issue. I'm looking to branch out into Seiko's (6619 and the 7xxx line are what I own already) and am looking for good resources for the getting started with that. I've found some tear-down videos online, so I'm tempted to just dive in. I've only worked on Russian movements that I've been willing to break, so I unfortunately don't have a good recommendation for learning the ETAs, except that I'm also looking at signing up for either the Timezone course or the watchrepairlessons courses here.
  19. Unless you have another watch you can steal them from, it will be hard to say that they are "screw x". You should be able to get those from a normal fastener supplier though. You just need to know the thread pitch, diameter, and length of the screws. You can measure the thread pitch with one of these: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread_pitch_gauge Note that metric and imperial systems measure screws differently of course, so if you're having trouble getting something that is exactly right, try using the other system. Googling around should get more details on getting the right measurements.
  20. I've spent a lot of my career managing fleets of computers, which for this area are very similar to watches. What I did there was assign each one a serial, and note what was missing / broken from that particular computer in the inventory for it. I imagine a similar approach would would well here. Each individual watch or movement gets a bin, with a notation on what's missing / broken. As you pull parts, that list gets longer. Could even make it a checklist for most things. The only place it falls down is if you have parts that aren't in a movement, then you need a place to keep those straight. For those, I'd be inclined to treat it the same, but the plates are among the missing pieces. Then, as you collect pieces for that movement, you can add them. Unless you get to the point that have many duplicates of the same part for the same movement, this won't get too inefficient, and it avoids the labor of "parting out" a bunch of stuff and the risk of loss / breakage that introduces. If that does happen, you can always create another system / exception for that. At the scale I'm at I just use a multi-compartment parts bin and keep all the pieces from a given watch in a bin together, and whole watches in another multi-compartment bin. I have slightly less volume than you though, so I don't know at what point that will fall apart.
  21. That is super cool. The historical angles, the "life" that watches have is one of the reasons I love them so much. The piece that is really responsible for getting me into it is a 1941 Hamilton Lexington I inherited from my grandfather. One of the more interesting thigns about it is that it is engraved on the back so it was probably a graduation gift for him, but no one in my family can figure out who the "from" initials belong to. I like to think it was his secret girlfriend...
  22. My watch and the one you found are close cousins! Mine was made same year and month, SN is 6D10361
  23. Thanks so much for the extra info! I'm in Denver, Colorado, US
  24. Thanks again for the insights on this tool, much appreciated. And yes, no intention of changing the day wheel. I've long wanted to learn Japanese, so learning to use this is one small way I can move that goal forward a bit. Really I just want to get some dust off the dial, maybe replace or at least polish the crystal, and get it running right. Everything else, case character included, will remain.
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