Jump to content

Pegging jewel holes

Lc130

By Lc130
in Tools & Equipment

 Share

Recommended Posts

Lc130 WRT Addict

Lc130

Posted
Posted

I tried shaving a toothpick down to size but it becomes so fragile that it's useless.  Is there something else that works for very small holes like pallet forks?

 

Thank you

Charlie

oli WRT Addict

oli

Posted
Posted

As above, definitely use pegwood. I find that the quality of the pegwood makes a significant difference as well, some grades are easier to sharpen to a perfect shape. The indian orangewood sold by cousins, although a step up compared to toothpick, is not up to the job for small jewels found in watches. 

 

Pip WRT Addict

Pip

Posted
Posted
  On 1/9/2019 at 9:14 PM, oli said:
As above, definitely use pegwood. I find that the quality of the pegwood makes a significant difference as well, some grades are easier to sharpen to a perfect shape. The indian orangewood sold by cousins, although a step up compared to toothpick, is not up to the job for small jewels found in watches. 
 

Amen. I’m on the lookout for a much better quality pegwood so if anyone cares to mention a source in the UK or Europe I’m all ears.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted
  On 1/10/2019 at 12:45 AM, Pip said:


Amen. I’m on the lookout for a much better quality pegwood so if anyone cares to mention a source in the UK or Europe I’m all ears.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Expand  

Anyone sourcing folks with a majic pegwood up to the job, would make a living by it.

I join hands with pip, Thank the lord for the pegwwod we are about to receive.Amen.:jig:

  • 1 month later...
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted
  On 1/9/2019 at 9:14 PM, oli said:

As above, definitely use pegwood. I find that the quality of the pegwood makes a significant difference as well, some grades are easier to sharpen to a perfect shape. The indian orangewood sold by cousins, although a step up compared to toothpick, is not up to the job for small jewels found in watches. 

 

Expand  

Is indian orangewood a label? brand name? Or tells  the wood is off of some type of indian orange tree. If so plenty orange trees in my front yard so all I need is a pencil shrapener:lol: .This is got to be the stupidest question ever on forum.

JimmyD WRT Addict

JimmyD

Posted
Posted

BUY? being a Scot (now in Australia) why buy pegwood, just get a scrap bit of oak, ash, whatever as long as it is hardwood, use a tennon saw and cut it into about 1/4 inch squares, and chisle the end to the size you need. Failing that I have also reused Kabab stickes after a BBQ. :biggrin:

  • 7 months later...
Klassiker Distinguished Member

Klassiker

Posted
Posted

Just took a look at the Cousins website. They have the Indian orangewood as mentioned by Oli above, the German orangewood he recommends, and swiss beech or hornbeam. All are at the affordable end of the scale. Then there's the luxury article from Horotec, which is described as Swiss gentian wood. I guess this is the sort which Nickelsilver praises above, in which case I assume the price is justified. I'm looking for something which will take a really fine, sharp but durable point, but still clean well.

Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted
  On 11/3/2019 at 9:15 PM, Klassiker said:

Just took a look at the Cousins website. They have the Indian orangewood as mentioned by Oli above, the German orangewood he recommends, and swiss beech or hornbeam. All are at the affordable end of the scale. Then there's the luxury article from Horotec, which is described as Swiss gentian wood. I guess this is the sort which Nickelsilver praises above, in which case I assume the price is justified. I'm looking for something which will take a really fine, sharp but durable point, but still clean well.

Expand  

Wouldn,t that be nice. 

nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted

The gentian wood would be really fragile, it's close to pithwood in consistency. Great for polishing bevels, not much else.

Regular pegwood is light years beyond toothpicks, the "normal" horotec i described above is a-ok for jewels down to say 0.07mm no problem. You should peg the pallet hole jewels if nothing else, a good 30-40 degrees of amplitude lie there!

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
anilv Distinguished Member

anilv

Posted
Posted

A bit of drift but still related to pegwood.

I have a table pencil-sharpener bolted to my desk. I use it to get a nice conical tip and then use a knife to get a fine point. If I hand shape the point I find I really need to focus on getting the tip central otherwise it wont spin concentric when you roll it between your fingers. Te sharpener does 95% of the work and I just contribute the last 5percent.

Note, while you may get by with a hand sharpener, the table type ones hold it  central better.

Anilv

  • Like 1
eccentric59 WRT Addict

eccentric59

Posted
Posted (edited)

Try getting yourself a couple of mechanical drafting pencils and a sharpener. These can really put a fine point on pegwood as shown in the photo compared to your standard No. 2 pencil out of a desktop sharpener.

 

sharpener.thumb.jpg.49a5bddfbb81972d6d199761fc1e9100.jpgS20191103_0003.thumb.jpg.76a33e311b2158f993c53203317b1278.jpg

Edited by eccentric59
  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • rehajm
      Reusing mainsprings in an automatic and slipping

      By rehajm · Posted

      …to clarify, you placed it here, yes?
    • RichardHarris123
      Hello from Sweden! My first two "projects"

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • AndyGSi
      Reusing mainsprings in an automatic and slipping

      By AndyGSi · Posted

      By coned do you mean it sits proud of the barrel before you fit the lid?
    • JohnL
      Reusing mainsprings in an automatic and slipping

      By JohnL · Posted

      Hi all, Might a posit a theory and people can chime in and tell me if I'm barking up the wrong sycamore: If a mainspring is a bit coned and returned to its barrel for reuse, is it less likely to slip when the spring gets to fully wound?  For a bit of background: Slava 2427, barrel walls greased with 8217, six dots evenly spaced around each of the barrel walls, then smeared/ spread along the wall before popping the springs in. 
    • socorrista
      Hello from Sweden! My first two "projects"

      By socorrista · Posted

      Always in love with watches since I was a kid and with fixing things as I grew up. 10 years ago I bought my first mechanical watch, the Invicta Pro Diver 8926. Recently it started not keeping time at all and when I made an attempt to regulating it I messed up the balance spring. So I decided to go for it and do the following: replace the NH35 movement in it and get the parts to try to fix the original movement. Turns out I should have gone for the balance complete, I just purchased 2 balance wheels. The first one was a disaster, the second one I was able to attach to the stud holder and even install in the watch, but I was definitely doing something wrong as the hairspring got tangled and bent out of place by too much. But by now I know how to install the balance complete. Also decided to change the bezel insert for a green one to freshen it up. But now I'm thinking about either going back to the old danged up insert or keep replacing parts (sapphire glass and another dial, since I lost the "Invicta" letters while cleaning the dial from dust). The invicta has actually sentimental value due to it having seen me go through shit in my life, I'm never going to part from it. I am just debating whether continue freshing it up or putting it back to it's "original" status with all the scars of the old bezel. Parallel to that I made a "build" (watch on the right), putting together a NH34, dial, hands and putting it in a case. It was actually my practice watch for the hand setting. The seconds hand was a terrible nightmare, when I finally got to insert it then the watch wouldn't start. Turns out that the paint job was a bit too thick, shaved a lump with a razor blade and it solved it. Installing the invicta hands on the other movement was a walk in the park in comparison, I'm very happy I practiced with an "aliexpress watch" first. But the thing is that I got it down to around 0.5ms beat error and +6 s/d, so I'll probably gift it to a dear friend as a "tool watch don't baby it at all". Anyhow, cheers to you all!
×
×
  • Create New...