Jump to content

Custom Build using Venus 170


Recommended Posts

11 minutes ago, bjd1020 said:

when was the subject part produced???

I really can't remember exactly when that testversion was printed maybe one year ago or so maybe longer.
Found it lying around in the corner of my projects box when looking for the name of the plating kit.

21 minutes ago, bjd1020 said:

I have the glass and mic'd the dias and even at the highest resolution it still has a hard time holding tolerance.

Yes you will Always have to tweek the version you 3D print since the material as you for sure know (PLA and ABS) is a bit runy since it is melted in the extruder. One gets the feeling for the settings you apply in your printing software contra the performance in your printer . Every printer has a slight variation. The most printers have a deviation of +0.2 to +0.4mm just because of the material properties.
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How *NOT* to gold plate. (From the little I have learned, I suspect plating on to chrome is a non starter, but maybe there is something else going wrong here).

Caution: Contains ridiculously poor safety standards, (yellow marigold gloves as protection from potassium cyanide for example), so do not attempt any of this at home, or don't come crying to me if you do, and inadvertently poison yourself in the process. :unsure: 


Caution 2: If you haven't seen any of Cody's stuff before, you may well waste most of the rest of your day watching some of the other stuff he does. Everything from inhaling all (most) of the noble gasses to floating an anvil in mercury.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a heartbeat. Im not celebrating just yet however. One thing I learned, I think I know where the gritty feeling is coming from. I noticed when putting together the rocking bar, several gears on that assembly are toast. A few of the teeth are worn pointed. I tried to take the best gears from all the spares and it seemed to help a bit. Im also not completely sold on the balance. I ordered two complete balance assemblies including the bridges. My aim was to avoid having to put these together as its a bit challenging, however when I unpacked the order the balance wheels were not attached to the bridges. I attempted one assembly and when installed the hairspring it doesn't seem symmetrical. I think I may have something here not correct. Im going to have to do some research to make sure im doing that part correctly. The mechanism used to engage the hairspring to the regulator is different on both bridges I have, one seems stright forward the other not so much. Anyhow I dare not put it on the time graph as I dont want to take the wind out of my sails just yet. One thing, I am pleased with the plating and finished look. fae6d4559c1d057b77ac332aa4ee17d8.jpga32d7982a3a9c3239edccaa3514288d3.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok. If anybody is out there.......i put the watch on the time graph and its pretty ugly. The time graph keeps reseting trying to autodetect beat rate. Im not even sure what to set the rate or angle to. I am planning to go through all the verification checks in the manual and will also be installing hands and doing a check with that as well. Any advice on the time graph would be helpful. As for the balance assemblies. I have included a photo of the regulator boot, if anybody has a tutorial on how to install the wheel with this type of boot it would be appreciated. You can also see the way the hairspring sits, im not sure if this is normal. 3fc504b16050c74b3dc0f6b3c2fa70fc.jpg9dafe05193f233c728afad3a31149990.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Dial has finally arrived. Its been a couple of weeks since I have been able to work on the build however I have some information regarding balance and will be back on it next week. 66b770f78d26543983d8fc75eeb621bb.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
On 2/4/2019 at 7:26 PM, bjd1020 said:

Ok. If anybody is out there.......i put the watch on the time graph and its pretty ugly. The time graph keeps reseting trying to autodetect beat rate. Im not even sure what to set the rate or angle to. I am planning to go through all the verification checks in the manual and will also be installing hands and doing a check with that as well. Any advice on the time graph would be helpful. As for the balance assemblies. I have included a photo of the regulator boot, if anybody has a tutorial on how to install the wheel with this type of boot it would be appreciated. You can also see the way the hairspring sits, im not sure if this is normal. 3fc504b16050c74b3dc0f6b3c2fa70fc.jpg9dafe05193f233c728afad3a31149990.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

If you put hairspring into regulator pin, it will probably center around the jewel and will be fine. To insert into regulator pin, put the balance cock upside down on table and with screwdriver turn the small brass part as a screw (it has some ingress for screwdriver's tip). By turning it will free the small pin and you will be able to put hairspring between pin and brass part, turn it again to close it. Make sure you are doing it steady, very easy to mingle hairspring if screwdriver slips, as it requires some pressure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
On 2/17/2019 at 12:55 PM, bjd1020 said:

Dial has finally arrived. Its been a couple of weeks since I have been able to work on the build however I have some information regarding balance and will be back on it next week. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190217/66b770f78d26543983d8fc75eeb621bb.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

Nice dial @bjd1020! Is this your design? How was it made? How's progress on this project?

Link to comment
Share on other sites




  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If we use the rub-off epilame method of pallet stones (run dry for a few minutes before applying the epilame) where will the oil go/be transported when it is pushed away from the impulse surface by the escape wheel teeth? Onto the epilame-treated sections of the pallet! Once the oil has been applied/transported to the epilame-treated sections of the pallet where will it then go? Nowhere as the oil will remain on the epilame. So, perhaps the run-dry method defeats its intended purpose leaving the pallet impulse surfaces dry!? If, on the other hand, we do not remove the epilame from the pallet stones where the escape wheel teeth come in contact with them I'd expect more oil to remain where we want it and need it. Yes, I agree, that is the question, and my gut feeling tells me that is exactly the case. Epilame was created to have an adhesive trait and the oleophobic property is just a side effect.  
    • Might that be the viscous nature of oil resisting gravity H  ,  we have been comparing water and hydrophobic surfaces which are similar in principle but water is much less viscous than oil. I guess what we trying to discover is if epilame also has an adhesive trait as well as being oleophobic. Plus the oil dropet has very little mass for gravity to work on, like watching tiny water beads that can grip onto vertical glass until they are connected together to increase their mass then run down. Gravity isn't the only factor at play when oil is placed on pallet stones. The oil receives a lot of bashing that may push it out of position ? Thinking about it if the oil stays in position for 10 minutes enough time for the escape wheel to scrape off the epilame , then  a walled in lubrication has been achieved,  the epilame is no longer beneath the oil ( possibly mixed into the oil )
    • But it also makes it seem less susceptible to gravity. If you place a droplet of oil on an epilame-treated surface the droplet of oil will still stay in place even if you then flip the surface from a horizontal to a vertical position. That is, the oil droplet remains anchored, and that's the purpose of epilame. If it was just a matter of creating an oleophobic surface we could probably use other, less expensive, methods!? I don't know @Waggy but my gut feeling tells me you're spot on (pun intended!). I believe the oleophobic property is a side effect of epilame which is designed to keep the oil anchored.
    • Saturday morning 27/4 Sunday evening 28/4 Monday evening 29/4 Floor has a drain in the middle so I am hoping that there is very little fall on it, if any. Room is about 2.5 x 2.5 metres square. Can only use about 1/2 of one wall on the right of the pictures which has a sliding glass door in it. And only about 3/4 of the wall to the left of the pictures as it has the door to the house in it. Progress. 🙂 
    • This makes much more sense now, the oil is withdrawing itself to make as little contact with the epilame as possible. Same principle as wax on a car creates a hyrophobic surface that makes the cohesive properties of water molecules pull together.  The water beads run off only when under the influence of gravity but still remain cohesively beaded up. And as mentioned earlier a pivot would keep the oil in place on a cap jewel.  Epilame on an escapement would be a different scenario, there is nothing to hold the oil in position if gravity tugs at the bead to move, plus the escape teeth pull the oil about Maybe this is why its suggested to run the watch for a short while to remove the epilame to make two oleophobic surfaces either side of the oil, creating a ring of fire 🔥 around it 😅 The oil is repelled by every surface of the epilame even that which it sits upon. So the oil pulls together to make as little contact with it as possible, but the oil cant float above that area, it can only sit there on top of it. Under gravity the oil could potentially run away as an oil bead, unless the epilame has an adhesive property which i dont think it does ? So something else keeps it in position ie a pivot under a cap jewel . But that isn't the case in a pallet jewel situation. 
×
×
  • Create New...