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Hi @Robbie010. No. This looks like a watch from the 1950s. Lapanouse had a brand called Rego which I've mentioned above. In the 1950s the Cimier brand came into being from this manufacturer. Could the 'CIR' logo on the dial be shorthand for Cimier? I don't know but irrespective of that it looks too similar to the range of inexpensive pin lever escapement watches produced in the 50's by this brand or similar. Look for instance at the 'Telemetre' watches halfway down this page: http://www.mcbroom.biz/forum/read.php?5,2931 . Such watches were made to look like more expensive proper chronographs but, as you've found, could simply have a 'balance stop' mechanism and no reset to zero. Doesn't mean it's a watch you shouldn't like though! Hope you get it going.

I have always recommended taking pictures at each stage of disassembly, I don't believe anyone has ever listened.? There also diagrams for some calibers. Back thirty five years ago, taking many pictures wasn't a cheap option, so I usually got at least two of the same calibers, one was an actual diagram for the other and supplied full house of spare parts. Regs Joe

What's the movement - there may be a technical service sheet for it ? There is a general sort of order - just watch any of Mark's videos. When disassembling (take photos at each stage) I use containers with compartments - each compartment for a different set of components : gear train, auto mechanism, keyless work etc. Then, as I only have a small ultrasonic, I clean each compartment set at a time.

Visual comparison of pivot's OD on new and old arbours is near impossible, I guess they are the same or about the same, since the new pivot did fit into the jewel, if the fork doesn't move freely something is wrong there. common causes are; craked jewel, thick or bent pivots, coned pivot fitted into flat jewels.

Replacing a burnished in jewel in a setting https://youtu.be/K9Sq7_0qSFk

I just use a metal polish called "Silvo" (the silver/gold equivalent of Brasso) by hand - with a rag and cotton buds. It works so well I only use the ultrasonic to clear off residue. I also clean hands with it.

I've used watered down toothpaste on a cotton wool bud before with great results.

If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, even a cheap one commonly sold for small jewelry items, you can use it for gold plated items. Jeweler's polishing cloths and red rouge on a microfiber cloth work well. In general, any method that avoids heavy pressure, high heat, and abrasives will be fine.

I've found a simple red rouge cloth to work the best. A little elbow grease helps. Either a fingernail or appropriately sculpted pegwood stick gets in the nooks and crannies.

The "Numa Frechelin" is the clue. From the NAWCC web site: "Greg Crockett Registered User Jul 27, 2002 #2 Could your watch be marked Numa Frechelin? If so, a Swiss company existed in Colombier by that name. It was known for making watches of the American style,what the Swiss called "Boston" watches and now called Swiss Fakes by American collectors. Louis Frechelin made watches as far back as the 1880's, Numa was listed in the 1920's in the same town." There was also an American watch by the name of "Meridian". Yours is not that. There's an "i" missing. A Swiss company faking an American style of watch was a sales tactic. That said, some "Swiss fakes" were fairly decent timepieces in their own right. I'd certainly consider it worthwhile to restore yours. I couldn't estimate a dollar value offhand though.

So I played a bit in Solidworks, and this is what I got. A friend of mine helped me with the 3D printing. sup_2.STL mic 2.STL pesa.STL sup_1.STL the editables: mic 2.SLDPRT pesa.SLDPRT sup_1.SLDPRT sup_2.SLDPRT ansamblu2.SLDASM