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fixermole

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  1. LWS, I think it is dangerous to use the term "interchangeable." Similar to both Ronsonol and Drizebrite, Coleman fuel (aka white gas) is also a mixture of hydrocarbons and classified as naphtha. I am not a petroleum chemist and there are several aspects of the classification and description of naphthas that are unclear. But they are all mixtures of low-boiling hydrocarbons that should dissolve oily, greasy watch parts similarly. I would give it a try but would still rinse with isopropanol. What I did notice in the MSDS for Drizebrite is a boiling point range of 300-350 degrees F, whi
  2. I recommend using one or the other but not both lighter fluid and Drizebrite. Just duplicate work. Geeky chemistry explanation below. Both Drizebrite and lighter fluid (e.g. Ronsonol) are petroleum distillates classified as "naptha". Both are mixtures of many individual chemical compounds, not just one pure material. During petroleum distillation, certain mixtures or "fractions" are taken where the liquid boiling off at a range of temperatures is collected together. These fractions can be used as mixtures (e.g. gasoline, diesel fuel, mineral spirits, naptha, etc.) or purified further to g
  3. I use a vinyl board cover that you can get in larger sizes than the Bergeon mats. They come in larger pre-cut sizes and are a little cheaper in cost. I just obtained a large sheet and cut it to fit the entire table top. They usually come in the light green color and clean up easily. You can find them online in art supply houses or mechanical drafting supply houses and usually go by Vyco or Borco in the US.
  4. For a starter screwdriver set, one of the six packs of the French-made ones worked well for me starting out. I think it was 30 USD a couple of years back. I just added sizes later as I needed them. I still use them as I've dressed them for wide-slot screws. I use another set of Horotecs, which I prefer, for narrow slotted screws.
  5. Glad I could help. I just happened to work on an old front-loading Bulova a month ago that had enough crud under the bezel and slight pry mark to realize it was removable. Even after 50-100 repairs/restorations, I learn something new with every single piece I work on. Keeps it interesting and keeps my old brain working. Cheers.
  6. Might that bezel need to be removed first??
  7. Ansonia was a US brand that made a lot of mantle clocks in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. I don't know how many you can find in Canada, but it was the first spring-driven clock I repaired/restored. It was pretty straightforward. I don't know if you want something that old but you usually can find plenty of them in the US for reasonable prices.
  8. Dawn, welcome. In addition to more details, a close-up picture of the problem watch with the caseback removed helps a tremendous amount due to the differences between movements.
  9. As AshF said, there is large diversity with crystals. To see the diversity and options, I found the attached crystal guide from Borel to be helpful in the beginning. Borel Crystal Guide.pdf
  10. Thanks everyone for their input. I'm really just looking for whether 10X is sufficient and whether 12X or 14X are better for this task; however, I do have a stereo microscope on the wish list.
  11. I'm looking for recommendations based on everyone's experience for the optimal loupe magnification/focal length that works the best for pallet jewel or escape wheel lubrication with 9415 grease. Is 10X sufficient or does higher power work better; if the latter is true at what point is the focal length too close for practicality? I've been using a hand-held 10X triplet lens for that one task but looking for an aplanatic eye loupe, and they're available as 10X, 12X, 14X. Any thoughts and experiences are appreciated.
  12. If they make a screw extractor that size, maybe that would work? As rodabod suggested, I've also cut a slot in something similar and simply unscrewed it.
  13. Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Since this is the second time I've come across this issue (in the last case the crown and stem were replaced), I think it's time for a homemade tool. I'll try the hollow tapered punch idea first.
  14. rodabod, what exactly is a "diners punch"? That's a new tool to me; is it part of a staking set or maybe it's called something else in the US? I was thinking of pinching the crown a little but hadn't seen a technique out there for such, especially to maintain even pressure throughout the circumference. It only needs to close maybe 0.1-0.2 mm or so.
  15. While I wait on a new crown gasket, I noticed after cleaning that the retaining ring just sits inside the crown loosely. How are these typically held in place or are they held at all?
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