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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/14/19 in all areas

  1. Yes you can. It is for reverse wheels.
    3 points
  2. ......and here by, ahem, popular demand, are some multi-jewelled pin-levers, excluding the usual suspects of BFG, EB and Ronda, as well as any with less than 17 jewels. Each movement is preceded by the watch wherein it lurks and the images can be expanded for anyone interested. Not sure how to text - photo - text, so in order of appearance they are: Lorsa 655G.3, Lorsa 652, Lorsa 651, Brac 117, Brac 2002, Brac 118, Brac 903, 17j Ebosa 65, 21j Ebosa 65, 21j Oberon, 17j Oberon. Regards. EDIT. Image No.3 should have been at the top and image No.4 should be in third place. The joys of being tech-unsavvy.
    2 points
  3. It does and I have used the lathe technique for other staffs that had a rivet Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  4. I had a bottle of Lubeta V106 . Can't say i use it a lot. So when i open the bottle it was dry. Had closed as hard as i could . My experience say 9010 diluted in naptha is as good as Lubeta V106. If you don't use it every day. It's evoporates very fast so gets thicker as times go by.
    1 point
  5. Check wear and shape of of the date wheel and date jumper. BTW on our friendly forum it's appreciated that new members introduce themselves even before asking questions.
    1 point
  6. Quite like that, and made by P. Bessot-Fresard of Charquement. Yes, they are French movements, and here's an image of the Lorsa Cal. 651 dial side. Regards.
    1 point
  7. I can,t remember if stud holdef is mobile or fixed on this. Small damage or fault at escape teeth requiring high magnification, may have gone undetected.
    1 point
  8. I've got an image of the dial, but not the dial side of the caliber. I presume these are French movements, they look similar in construction to the Lijac I posted about a while back. I can't find much about either the Lijac or the Diane brand though.
    1 point
  9. Certainly looks like it. Have you got an image of the dial?
    1 point
  10. Today's "Watch of Today" is another Timex brought back from the scrap heap. This time a 1976 Marlin with a shaded burgundy dial and hexagonal body. The crystal could perhaps do with a little more work, but given the state it was in initially I think I've made a reasonable start on it. It is running reasonably well, given its age, condition and the fact that it is a Timex. The beat error is a little wild, but the rest looks OK.
    1 point
  11. The Lorsa 651 and 652 look familiar, the Diane with the fish logo looks to be a variant. I had no idea what it was until I saw your pictures above. Thanks.
    1 point
  12. Fixodrop retains the oil in. Yes that is correct, it is very expensive, my personal opinion is it is not worth the money.
    1 point
  13. I don,t make staffs and be happy to just staff a BW with ready factory made ones of known caliber. Dosn,t removing the rivited portion of the old staff on lathe reduce the risk of warping the wheel?
    1 point
  14. @Nucejoe Hello and thank you.
    1 point
  15. Brilliant !. Not that i can afford a Lathe at present, or wether i could even do such a task, but the satisfaction of doing such a perfect job, must be very pleasing. With hard to impossible to find staffs, for older watches, its the perfect part of learning.
    1 point
  16. Congratulations. You my friend are a Watch Maker.
    1 point
  17. That is so easy in watchmaking, especially when buying Swiss tools that on many cases work the same but cost four times the Chinese. But that's another story. An other quick way to spend money is to buy watches for practice. At the very first you can go cheap but ideally you want them to be of quality to be repairable, have parts available, and being of attractive brand and models to buyers to reseller later. However money can buy tools but not knowledge, dexterity and skllls, for that reason beginners must focus on practicing on the bench as more they can. Also reading books is very beneficial although nodawaday enrolling into an online course like the one offered by our Host Mark Lovick is probably a better alternative.
    1 point
  18. The beauty with escapements is the fact there has been so many different solutions throughout time, take for example the escapement in a pin-lever, sometimes you have them setup like a super duper co-axial speed racer. So in this case one really can't tell what it is or how it is configured until he posts Pictures of the complete movement, before strip or at least Pictures of the escape Wheel and fork.
    1 point
  19. Elma cleaning machine!!!? NOT . I get me a staking set, set up a diy timegrapher ,lots of useful goodies you can get with that kind of money.
    1 point
  20. I suggest you remove the hands and see how it goes, if it still stops, remove the movement from the case and remove the dial and test. if it stops, let all the power down, remove balance and pallets, just give it a little power, see if the train runs free if so reassemble and try. If it doesn't then you need to look at the wheels in turn and check teeth pivots and pinions and jewel holes. If all fails let me know.
    1 point
  21. I don’t see any sign of any oil or grease. It just might be its hard to set because of lack of lube. One other thing, check you have screwed in the correct length screws, if you have put in the wrong screw it could be fouling the setting lever. Have you oiled the cannon pinion? if not you might strip the teeth of the wheels when it comes to setting the hands.
    1 point
  22. Hey guys, just a short update. Thanks to rduckwor I was able to find a great paint and painted the watch bezel under the microscope. I am very pleased with the result, it was pretty timeconsuming though... took me about 4 hours. Would definitly do it again and also recommend it to others if you feel confident in doing this kind of work. By the way rduckwor send me a message with your PayPal email, your idea of emanel paint really helped me a lot and I would like to say thanks in some way. If there are any questions just ask me anything. I am happy to help.
    1 point
  23. You may be correct. Done and installed and works well. And then I found a bad Upper Jewel and had to trim a setting I had that almost fit. Used jeweling Collet in 50mm chuck with a 2mm flat graver and got us down to size. Pivot needed a bit more adjustment. Done and dusted. The movement has a bad mainspring so I installed the balance and put a small push on the center wheel and the balance came to life:) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  24. For general measurements I use the following gauge You could also use a micrometer Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  25. As mentioned before I've found that warm water and dish soap is the most effective for the type of dirt found on case and bracelets. But I that guess one can use anything else too.
    1 point
  26. Absolutely, warm water, dish detergent and a good brushing are more than enough for cases and bracelets. I'm into this theory even more now that I blown my U/S cleaner (never run it more than 10 minutes).
    1 point
  27. Finally found a good staking set!! I've been looking for one since I started watch repairing a few months back. But most I saw had either just been sold, missing parts, or in bad condition. But eureka! I got one that fits the bill (including cannon pinion resizers, and a micrometer for jewel replacement), and wasn't going to let it pass up, or let one of you buggers snag it before me this time. ;) I highly recommend to be patience when looking for a staking set, as good ones do come up from time to time. Here's the pics ... cause we all love da pics:
    1 point
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