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Hairspring characteristics are interesting and unfortunately very complicated. Simplistically hairsprings have two characteristics. The strength is required to unlock the escapement. The mainspring supplies the energy to rotate the balance wheel but the hairspring pulls the balance wheel back and unlocks the escapement. Then there is the frequency aspect usually the hairspring is vibrated to the specific balance wheel it's on. So swapping hairsprings is in general a bad idea and usually doesn't work. A exception to the rule of the hairspring must be vibrated to the balance wheel is or was American pocket watches. these were the hairspring is with over coils which have to be in very exacting locations. So it's easier to make these hairsprings separate for the balance wheels to get their exacting characteristics. Then there placed on the balance wheel and you use to build the by timing screw assortments. Then the swapping hairsprings isn't entirely an issue but getting those replacement hairsprings and the timing screws that's definitely a challenge today. then if you want to understand hairsprings, precision timing and stuff like that the book I listed below is a must have. Along with two videos that make hairspring vibrating look insanely easy when it really is not. The second video showing the final product of how closely the vibrated spring matches the master balance wheel did not occur instantaneously it would take a lot of time to get there. Watch Adjustment by Hans Jendritzki ISBN-10: 2883800294 ISBN-13: 9782883800298 Format Hardcover Author Hans Jendritzki Publisher Antoine Simonin, 2006 Pages 107 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hLorcrSRNs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M5LEN66vxgc

Update, I've opened it. I designed and 3D printed a tool, using a small blade from a mini box cutter. It made it easy to pry the case slightly then I could get a case knife in and it came off nicely.

Can you get a clearer pic and indicate exactly the problem wheels? The three clearly present don't look installed there, like just set on the movement randomly. I work on 7750s all the time and can't figure out the issue.

Here is Marks video on servicing a Venus 175. You have to remove many of the parts before being able to let the power of. As you will see in this video. https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/watch_repair_videos.html/watch-movement-servicing-stripdowns/how-to-service-a-chronograph-watch-part-1-of-6-breitling-venus-175-r33/

By my calibrated eye ball it looks like a good swing.but since you have your doubts about the hairspring , I think you are doing right to replace it.it is the oscillator that controls the frequency of the watch.

I did a couple of sketches of what I could remember about making the verge blank. Apologies to whoever posted this idea somewhere on the 'net. I can't remember or find it again. And the filed back to the center line idea. I'm no expert so the side view of the verge and crown wheel may be all wrong Cheers

As an introduction of my daily-wear collection I today wear an olden goldie from the early 1970's, Buler Astromaster. I think the Astromaster was produced between 1972-1979. It has a Baumgartner 582 pin-escapement movement, the first of that type I worked on. I enjoy it very much and think it´s a bunle of fun for around 100 bucks. According to unknown sources any resemblance with a watch like AP Royal Oak is just an coincidence

Oh so easy to say I’ll take some pictures, but harder to achieve! iPhone through a microscope harder than it ought to be... Known good balance... and a couple of others with less provenance, but removed from 134s. One has a broken staff so I know I’ve never run it. I also spotted something else which might be worth a look. Most of these that I’ve taken apart have had part of the underside of the balance cock filed away near the stud hole. This could be because aftermarket or just later balances have a larger diameter hairspring - not pictured here as it’s fitted in a movement right now, but I did buy a NOS renata balance a while back that seemed too large to fit comfortably... hence my comment in the previous post about watching out for the 2nd coil touching the curb pin. Finally I tried the dangling distance test... more like 0.33” than 0.5”

Looks good so far! 1. For the same problem you mentioned, I did not solder the pin onto the piezo. Instead, I used a two part epoxy. I believe it was J-B Weld steel reinforced epoxy. 2. The rubber is to reduce vibrations transferred by the rest of the timing stand to get a cleaner sound. I used a vehicle fuel hose with an inner diameter just big enough for the pin to slide in and out but small enough where there isn't any extra space.

More quartz action today. I recently picked up a couple of dead Seiko Kinetics (ladies sizes, so not much interest on ebay). I thought I might be able to make one working watch out of the two. As it happens I now have one fully working and one 99% working. The first one would run for a short period then stop, so I figured it was probably the capacitor and ordered one. There goes the £4.04 budget, the capacitor cost more than the watches. The other was more of a mystery. It appeared to function, but the button for showing the remaining reserve power wasn't functional. I stripped down the better looking Titanium one with what I assumed was the duff capacitor today and was disappointed to find that my hunch was wrong. In fact once I replaced the capacitor the thing was stone dead, so I dug out the multimeter, gave the thing five minutes of vigorous shaking and measured the voltage on the cap. It came in at a relatively healthy 1.4 Volts, so I started stripping it down again to see if perhaps I had put one of the insulator in squint or something.. and it started to tick. So I stopped and re-assembled it. It ran for about 30 seconds, then stopped. Long story short, it appears (from the fingerprints, damaged seal and a few apprentice marks) that I am not the first person to cast mey eyes on the insides of this watch, so I examined it carefully and noticed that the second hand appeared to be able to travel up and down relative to the dial. Not a good idea, I much prefer my second hands to go round and round rather than up and down. It seems that *someone* i.e. not me, had loosened a bunch of screws, so I set about very carefully tightening everything (I removed the oscillating weight and went over everything carefully. It now works. I say it is 99% working, because I'm still slightly suspicious of what else might be wrong with it. The second watch was much more obvious. I took it apart, and there were obvious signs of slight damp ingress. The spring that grounds the mechanism to the chassis was a rather ominous green colour, and there were a couple of tiny rusty spots here and there, so I set about it very carefully with a fiberglass pen trying not to get any dust or corrosion residue into the works. I also tweaked the spring slightly to cause it to push harder against the case. A bit of a scrub and it now operates as the manufacturer intends. They do look a little odd on my hairy wrist. One rather obviously still needs a crystal, or at the least a polish of the existing crystal. I may experiment with the diamond abrasives on this. They could probably both benefit from some attention to the finish of their straps and bezels. So I have a question. Does anyone have a service diagram or manual for these movements? No... before you ask, the grubby marks and fingerprints are not mine.

Hi , ..Nice Hamilton . Looks like my X-Wind . As far as the Accutron running fast , you are talking about phasing the watch to run on higher voltage batteries . At 1.5 instead of 1.3 volts . You may want to try an accu-cell made for this . You can try one ,...as they are more expensive , to see the outcome .

Another member of the class of 404 This one might however prove a a little more challenging, owing to the invisible balance made, no doubt from pure, refined 100% "unobtanium". A bit of a shame really as I like the vintage look of the thing. Oh well, you win some, you loose some.