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  1. Good job so far! I'm interested to hear some recordings of your audio...you can upload to mega.nz. I have a different type of pre-amp in my possession (after waiting a long time for shipping from China), but haven't had much time to get all the tools out to solder something together.
  2. Looks good so far! 1. For the same problem you mentioned, I did not solder the pin onto the piezo. Instead, I used a two part epoxy. I believe it was J-B Weld steel reinforced epoxy. 2. The rubber is to reduce vibrations transferred by the rest of the timing stand to get a cleaner sound. I used a vehicle fuel hose with an inner diameter just big enough for the pin to slide in and out but small enough where there isn't any extra space.
  3. @svorkoetter By any chance do you have an audio recording with your custom made pre-amp in use? I had a memory of you sending me an audio sample on WUS, but I cannot find it in my messages. Thanks!
  4. I'm not sure, you will have to test it and let us know how it turns out Is it easy to disassemble the kit if you want to try soldering it the other way? I'm currently waiting for some parts for a different type of pre-amp that I ordered from China, but it is taking abnormally long to arrive...maybe the package got lost.
  5. I am in no way an expert, so I'm not completely sure about the answer to your question. There are many types of stainless steel so I think it might be better to avoid any doubt and choose something like solid brass. It's also cheaper
  6. Yes, the pin actually started out as the pin that holds a door in its hinge. Then I used this style of pipe cutter to add the two grooves in the pin. I do not have all of the correct tools I made the mistake of using one that was brass plated steel. Why is this bad? The steel can become magnetized and in turn magnetize your watch. Where are you located? If you are in the US and somehow have a hard time finding brass rod (it's pretty cheap), I can send you a 6" piece if you want to cover shipping cost.
  7. B52, by any chance can you please upload or link to an audio recording of your watch using the pre-amp + piezo? I think I will purchase one of these pre-amps for testing but I'd love to hear how it sounds.
  8. I wish you had an audio recording from the sensor/amp combo so we can know how it sounds
  9. B52, can you make audio recordings? Example from my piezo: https://mega.nz/#!F4BiwSoL!to9EyC1kLx3Fve7Wl3T3d_aoLqbeF-AbU_d2K3skEls
  10. Good work! I'm curious how it sounds; do you have a recording in WAV or MP3 format that you can upload?
  11. Not sure, both your link and my link open just fine
  12. Great resource. Here's one that I use - it's not as pretty but it works for me. There is data already filled in to act as an example. Fields for 6 positions: rate, amplitude, and beat error. You can give a weight to each position and calculate average, weighted average, and min/max/deviation. watch_timing_report.xlsx
  13. Thanks Actully it's OK, I just think the back looks weird with three screws AND three rubber feet. I should have used some of those rubber feet with integrated screws.
  14. I've already posted this on another popular watch forum, but I think it better fits here. I'm sorry if this post get too lengthy due to all the images. Hey everyone! I would like to share a project that I've been working on for a while. After a few different variations, I think that this is my final design for the time being. Project background: For many in this hobby, applications like Toolwatch are great because they allow you to determine daily rate, but it doesn't provide anything beyond that. Those of us who enjoy tinkering with watches should have a way to also check the amplitude and beat error. Sure, I could have purchased a timegrapher from China but I thought it would be a fun project to attempt constructing one myself (with the help of several resources). I used these microphone stand plans for reference and made some changes. There are also plans for a DIY pre-amp on the Watch-O-Scope website, but I followed the instructions from my good friend Guido (also posting on this thread) and modified a PYLE pre-amp by removing a capacitor from one channel and replacing the electrolytic capacitor with a ceramic capacitor on the same channel. The first iteration gave promising results but I wasn't entirely pleased with it. It seemed like the audio levels were somewhat inconsistent and I would get a ringing or echoing noise depending on the amount of pressure against the piezo disk (the contact microphone element). After some discussion with a friend, we came to the conclusion that many professional timing stands never have direct pressure against the piezo element - instead, the metal clamp that holds the watch is coupled with the piezo using a different piece of metal that transfers the vibrations. We came up with these sketches for a better design. Completed and polished pin before attaching it to the piezo. Pin installed. Soldered some thin cables from broken earbuds to a 3.5mm connector mounted in the stand. The results are good. Now it's time to add a copper plate to the back to reduce electromagnetic interference. Another good idea is to add some felt so I don't scratch any crystals when testing the dial down position. Finally, the build is complete! I'll admit that this might not be the most beautiful creation, but it's definitely functional and it does exactly what I need it to do. I have ideas for further improvements, but they are not necessary and are really just a challenge to get the cleanest audio signal (there's still quite a bit of static). Waveform from Watch-O-Scope (highly recommended software, made by a fellow WUS user). This is amazing software that I pair this microphone stand with. An alternative is TG Timer, but Watch-O-Scope definitely is the better option. Quick audio recording I made: Test Recording #1 - Mega.nz
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