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  1. Smaller ones seem to produce a "cleaner" and more accurate sound. Any size will work perfectly with TG or Watch-O-Scope but my goal was to get the best sound. As for the question of whether it's more sensitive? I'm not sure! I think the main takeaway from my testing is that if the disk is larger than the diameter of the surface that's making contact with the watch crown, you will pick up additional (unwanted) noise. The 'pin' on my timing stand is ~6mm so I'd want to have something closer than that rather than overhang it with a 27mm disk. Here are several recordings that compare 12m
  2. I had way better results with 12mm vs 27mm. I keep meaning to purchase some 10mm or 7mm piezo discs to compare the difference.
  3. What diameter did you order? From testing I found that the smaller the diameter, the better the "quality". Seems to pick up even less background noise and static the smaller you go.
  4. Thanks, I will try that method when I have some time next week! On the other watch, I documented this method to make the clips: https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/creating-a-chronograph-pusher-c-clip-how-did-i-do.5165357/ I thought it might be too small, but now I'm up for two challenges. Just ordered some 0.008" music wire (0.2mm) to fit the smaller groove of this watch, so in reality it will be 1.40mm x 1.0mm x 0.2 mm
  5. Any other ideas? 1.00mm ID fits into the groove, but the 2.0mm OD is too large and it does not allow the pusher to fully extend back out. Needs something more like 1.5mm OD
  6. Thanks for the reply. I did see those, but I'm unsure about how much wiggle room I have between the cutout in the case and the O.D. of the clip (it retracts back into a small hole). I suppose I could just order a full set or a few different sizes to test.
  7. A while back I made my own circlips/c-clips for some chronograph pushers out of music wire. The results were OK, but now I'm needing some clips for a different watch with a much smaller groove for the clips. I don't think I'll be able to make them by hand, and I haven't found anything small enough other than some M1.0 clips. These seem to be plated with something or have a black oxide coating. Probably not meant for watchmaking, but would this be OK to use?
  8. How sturdy is it when you plunge down? I have a cheap Chinese hand press and it wobbles quite a bit. Might have to try printing this when I have time and more filament
  9. I find a smaller piezo to be a little better. Here I've attached a .zip file containing two comparisons between 27mm and 12mm piezos from an 18000 bph and 21600 bph movement. Hope that helps! 27mm_vs_12mm_Piezo.zip
  10. Maybe even a 3133 or 3017. The problem is finding parts, as they are not so readily available compared to the "simple" 2414/2416/etc.
  11. Good job so far! I'm interested to hear some recordings of your audio...you can upload to mega.nz. I have a different type of pre-amp in my possession (after waiting a long time for shipping from China), but haven't had much time to get all the tools out to solder something together.
  12. Looks good so far! 1. For the same problem you mentioned, I did not solder the pin onto the piezo. Instead, I used a two part epoxy. I believe it was J-B Weld steel reinforced epoxy. 2. The rubber is to reduce vibrations transferred by the rest of the timing stand to get a cleaner sound. I used a vehicle fuel hose with an inner diameter just big enough for the pin to slide in and out but small enough where there isn't any extra space.
  13. @svorkoetter By any chance do you have an audio recording with your custom made pre-amp in use? I had a memory of you sending me an audio sample on WUS, but I cannot find it in my messages. Thanks!
  14. I'm not sure, you will have to test it and let us know how it turns out Is it easy to disassemble the kit if you want to try soldering it the other way? I'm currently waiting for some parts for a different type of pre-amp that I ordered from China, but it is taking abnormally long to arrive...maybe the package got lost.
  15. I am in no way an expert, so I'm not completely sure about the answer to your question. There are many types of stainless steel so I think it might be better to avoid any doubt and choose something like solid brass. It's also cheaper
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