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  1. How sturdy is it when you plunge down? I have a cheap Chinese hand press and it wobbles quite a bit. Might have to try printing this when I have time and more filament
  2. I find a smaller piezo to be a little better. Here I've attached a .zip file containing two comparisons between 27mm and 12mm piezos from an 18000 bph and 21600 bph movement. Hope that helps! 27mm_vs_12mm_Piezo.zip
  3. Maybe even a 3133 or 3017. The problem is finding parts, as they are not so readily available compared to the "simple" 2414/2416/etc.
  4. Good job so far! I'm interested to hear some recordings of your audio...you can upload to mega.nz. I have a different type of pre-amp in my possession (after waiting a long time for shipping from China), but haven't had much time to get all the tools out to solder something together.
  5. Looks good so far! 1. For the same problem you mentioned, I did not solder the pin onto the piezo. Instead, I used a two part epoxy. I believe it was J-B Weld steel reinforced epoxy. 2. The rubber is to reduce vibrations transferred by the rest of the timing stand to get a cleaner sound. I used a vehicle fuel hose with an inner diameter just big enough for the pin to slide in and out but small enough where there isn't any extra space.
  6. @svorkoetter By any chance do you have an audio recording with your custom made pre-amp in use? I had a memory of you sending me an audio sample on WUS, but I cannot find it in my messages. Thanks!
  7. I'm not sure, you will have to test it and let us know how it turns out Is it easy to disassemble the kit if you want to try soldering it the other way? I'm currently waiting for some parts for a different type of pre-amp that I ordered from China, but it is taking abnormally long to arrive...maybe the package got lost.
  8. I am in no way an expert, so I'm not completely sure about the answer to your question. There are many types of stainless steel so I think it might be better to avoid any doubt and choose something like solid brass. It's also cheaper
  9. Yes, the pin actually started out as the pin that holds a door in its hinge. Then I used this style of pipe cutter to add the two grooves in the pin. I do not have all of the correct tools I made the mistake of using one that was brass plated steel. Why is this bad? The steel can become magnetized and in turn magnetize your watch. Where are you located? If you are in the US and somehow have a hard time finding brass rod (it's pretty cheap), I can send you a 6" piece if you want to cover shipping cost.
  10. B52, by any chance can you please upload or link to an audio recording of your watch using the pre-amp + piezo? I think I will purchase one of these pre-amps for testing but I'd love to hear how it sounds.
  11. I wish you had an audio recording from the sensor/amp combo so we can know how it sounds
  12. B52, can you make audio recordings? Example from my piezo: https://mega.nz/#!F4BiwSoL!to9EyC1kLx3Fve7Wl3T3d_aoLqbeF-AbU_d2K3skEls
  13. Good work! I'm curious how it sounds; do you have a recording in WAV or MP3 format that you can upload?
  14. Great resource. Here's one that I use - it's not as pretty but it works for me. There is data already filled in to act as an example. Fields for 6 positions: rate, amplitude, and beat error. You can give a weight to each position and calculate average, weighted average, and min/max/deviation. watch_timing_report.xlsx
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