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I have been focusing on the Timex Campers the last few weeks and came across that looked like it spent time under ground. Here is the high level tasks performed: Soak strap in Oxy-Clean Clean case Clean and buff crystal Service movement replace crown grease stem tube Before and after -

To help clarify a little, the roundels that @jdm refers to might also be called washers, the sort that would you find with the nuts and bolts and other fixings at an iron mongers or hardware store.

Never apologize for asking a question we are all learning here. Did you notice when you read through all the answers that there were no absolutes? It's the problem with watch repair even if you had all the tools above they may not be adequate for every single situation. Which is not entirely a helpful answer for your question. So if money is no object definitely buy it. The problem with starting watch repair is/and for all of us it's expensive to acquire every single tool so this usually means you have to compromise with, what do I need now to solve the problem. Or just really lucky purchases over time. So if you're doing modern Swiss wristwatches you may not need a mainspring Winder at all because you purchase a new spring shove it in and that's the end of it. But either because you can't conveniently get a spring or the old spring looks acceptable then having some way to get it in other than the struggle of winding it in by hand would be nice. Then before I spiral off into the mystery of winders from Bergeon You might want to look at the basic set 2729 Right handles only. Then the other option is individuals but that brings up a problem and a mystery. To understand the mystery the first link is nice because everything is pictured you can see the numbers the descriptions and there's a second page. So all the bits and pieces are there all 17 sizes individually can be purchased plus additional ones specifically for ETA and Rolex. There is even a set specific for ETA and because they have specific part numbers I'm assuming that they're not the same as what's found in the standard set there's a difference somehow. Then a Winder for your Swiss pocket watch I assume you mean the older version that runs at 18,000 because there are two specific winders to correspond to the two versions of this watch. http://www.julesborel.com/products/tools-mainspring-tools-mainspring-winders http://www.julesborel.com/products/tools-mainspring-tools-mainspring-winders/bergeon-2795-eta-assortment-of-12-mainspring-winders-for-calibre-eta http://www.julesborel.com/products/tools-mainspring-tools-mainspring-winders/bergeon-mainspring-winder-eta6497-98-2 https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/watch-bergeon-2795eta

Very cheap https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/vices-bench-vice-jaws

Why getting left and right, in case the wise is incorrect all one has to do is transfer in a roundel and flip it.

They are on my wants list as well and they are very expensive. You only get the right hand winders with the more basic sets. If I have this correct, you will need the right hand ones for Swiss watches and the left hand winders for watches like Seiko. Don’t take my word for it though, I think I’ve read it somewhere. I’m contemplating buying the full set, but I’ll be happy to play around with old movements, do it by hand because it won’t matter or buy a cheap spring to replace it if I need to. If I feel that I’m skilful enough to do a good job on better watches I’ll invest in the full set at some point.

I have had the same problem and it takes so so much patience to get a vintage hairspring working again. I don't like hairspring work, would rather make parts on a lathe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Finally i found a crystal, and here ar the result. Thanks for your help.

Welcome to this friendly forum. Longines watch movements are high grade. Take Tmuir's advice and practise on cheap watches.

Welcome from Perth Western Australia. If you are thinking about servicing the Longines yourself I would suggest buying some cheap watches off the Internet first to practice on before you touch something more valuable like your Longines. Welcome to the forum.

Yep. The Tissot Visodate was an EPSA manufactured compressor case for a while, then they did their own version

I have mentioned about clock marriages particular with Longcase cloaks. Here are to that are on ebay. The first is easy to spot. The two key holes do not line up with the key arbor, both arbor’s are protruding from the dial. So this dial has been added and has nothing to do with the original clock. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lovely-Tall-Narrow-18c-Style-Dwarf-8-Day-Longcase-Clock-Full-Working-Order/392065382519?hash=item5b48eaf877:g:5soAAOSwGNxbI7Xa This dial is also wrong. The key holes again wrong, not lining up with the arbors, only this time someone has elongated the holes so a key can fit to enable to wind the clock. You can see how far out things are by looking at the seconds hand (see the big gap) the nameplate has been added, it is not the same quality as the rest of the dial it has been roughly shaped. I also think the bottom trunk has been cut down, It should be in proportion to the case, this is not. The seller mentions it is a shorter height so it would fit in a room with a low celling. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Antique-8-Day-Grandfather-Clock-Matthew-Bufhell-Delivery-Arranged/223016883329?hash=item33ecd79481:g:nXoAAOSwenla~2Gh You will need to look at the small photos to see what I mean.

Assembly Place the Circuit Block Spacer onto the Main Plate Clean all the Stators and Rotors before you re-assembly them ... yes they are that small!! Fit the Hour and Minute Stator, and Hour and Minute Rotor Fit the Clutch Wheel and the First Intermediate Wheel for Calendar Corrector Fit the Stem Replace the Train Wheel Setting Lever, Yoke, Setting Lever, and Setting Lever Spring Fit the Generating Stator and Generating Rotor, and also the Second Stator and Second Rotor Next is the Train and Motion Work, it is by far the hardest part of the assembly. It is all housed under one plastic bridge, so to make it easier here is a location chart. First the Motion Work - Setting Wheel, Intermediate Minute Wheel, Minute Wheel and Pinion Slide the Center Wheel and Pinion in the affix the Spacer Then add the Train - Third Wheel and Pinion, Intermediate Second Wheel, Fourth Wheel and Pinion, Second Wheel and Pinion Place the Train Bridge on and locate all the gears into their jewel holes. Next steps are easy, but be careful and gentle Fit the Coil Blocks - Generating Coil Block, Second Coil Block, Hour and Minute Coil Block Then CAREFULLY fit the Circuit Block Place the Oscillating Weight Bridge; but do not screw down. Then fit the Circuit Block Cover B, and only fasten screws indicated by yellow arrows. Place Circuit Block Cover D but do not fasten Continue and fit Circuit Block Cover C, this one you can screw down ... sorry forgot to take a photo, but it's the only cover left Now place the Circuit Block Cover A Cover on and fasten down all the screws Remember to leave the Battery Screw out ... as shown in the picture below Flip the movement over and fit the Hour Wheel, then the Intermediate Hour Wheel NOTE: I pictured the Intermediate Hour Wheel upside down ... sorry about that. Fit the Intermediate date Driving Wheel Replace the Date Driving Wheel, and the Date Driving Wheel Spring (Note spring location) Replace the Day-Date Corrector Wheel (See fitting instructions on Page 9 of Tech Specs) Replace the Second Intermediate Wheel for Calendar Corrector Place the Date Dial Guard on, fit the Hour Wheel Guard Spring, and fasten Install the Battery, and then fit the Oscillating Weight Fit the Dial and Hands Case the movement back up ... and you're done!