Leaderboard

I would not touch Chinese watch tools with a barge pole

I couldn't resist and bought a "grandfather clock" - you should have heard what the missus said when I got home lol. Anyway - it was only £20 on gumtree. It's got a Mermle 241.080 movement which seems to be in working order (needs a clean as it's all been sat in a garage for 2+ years). The case looks a little dubious - possibly home made. Anyhow - the mechanism is mounted to far forward so that the weights just touch the inside of the door. (which is probably why the top pane of glass is missing). To mount it further back I would need to increase the length of the minute and hour shafts. Looking on cousins it seems to show different length options - is this correct or am I misreading it all? Are there any other options? Original pics from ad:

I want to hear what the missus said?

I can't help Rogart63, but wish you every success! Regards Johnnie

On topic: I have a (Chinese?) crystal press. I used it as such once- it is fine but the dies, with their brass inserts, are worth less than dental floss at a Willie Nelson concert. The brass works loose and scored the crystal. I have re-purposed it however. Using the correct dies, it is the absolute best way to remove (Aluminum) inserts from Rolex bezels without inflicting any damage to the inserts. It's also good at reinstalling them. Rolex crystals don't really need a press- only the crystal retaining ring. Formerly I have used a 12-point socket and a drill press to set them. However, I plan to make a dedicated tool, with the exact angle of the retainer, to set them properly. (it's on the list!) I also have (knockoff) Rolex case back sockets which work very well. "Ruihua" brand, with a hand-wheel wrench. They will fit the "fancy" press tools but I have only one caseback that I can't remove with this tool. It's a Titanium case with a Titanium back. REALLY stupid since Titanium LOVES to gall and I think that's exactly what happened (or it's cross-threaded but back it sitting flush). It should have a stainless back. Anyway, that will be getting a liquid oxygen bath to shrink the back away from the mid case and it WILL come off... I think I have some knock-off plastic tweezers too. Those are fine for holding a battery. The "Faux" Dumont tweezers are absolute garbage however. I have one pair I was burned on and they would not even make a good clothespin...

This is a follow up comment on my earlier question about my watch that was running fast. I had many great answers, most directed toward the hairspring. As suggested, I demagnitized the watch and all the tools to be used in the repair. Then I removed the balance wheel, hairspring, and the plate holding the mechanism in the watch and soaked them in Naptha overnight. Then I reassembled the watch, wound it and let it run for 24 hours. A dramatic change had occurred. It gained, not three hours, but three minutes! Thanks to all who gave me such good advise and helped put this watch back in service. Bill in Augusta, Georgia, USA

I have many Chinese and foreign tools. Cheap and cheerful screwdrivers, Tweezers, movement holders etc. All re-engineered by myself and all are very good at little cost. If the tools are prepared correctly for the work then the rest is mainly down to the skill and know how of the repairer. Just my opinion. It is my understanding that a lot of Chinese manufactured components are used by a large movement maker and it is not unknown nowadays for expensive watches to be 1st. class air mail insured and shipped to China for service/repair if one knows where to go in China for this work. The sender then triples the cost to his customer.

Why would you want to do such a thing?

Be careful with acetone... I believe this dissolves shellac and you may find your roller jewel coming loose. Unnecessary hassle. rgds Anilv

jdm just pointed out to discuss it in the correct section,...I agree with him...keeping it on topic

I would think you did not get the correct info so a full refund would be the only option.

An almost broken hs can cause all sorts of unexpected behaviour. Before going hunting for a new hs, you should try repinning this one as close as you can to where it broke. If you can do this carefully you should still be able to adjust the timing by moving the regulator to the slow end. You can, if necessary, tweak the mean time screws on the balance (the ones closest to the arm) 1/4 to 1/2 a turn out to compensate for this. You must remove the balance form the watch to do this or you risk breaking pivots, and you must adjust equally on each side. You will need to remove the hs from the balance and reform the terminal curve so the collet is centred over the jewel hole and the regulator pin / boot moves freely round the full range of adjustment without moving the spring off centre. There is a special tool for holding the stud, but your balance cock here will suffice. You may want to move the stud down a ting fraction to help in pinning the spring perpendicular to the stud. You should be able to re-use the old pin. You will find some info on all this here... http://raulhorology.com/2012/12/the-mark-of-a-true-watchmaker-forming-hairsprings-part-4-pinning-to-the-stud-final-adjustments/

https://www.collectorsweekly.com/stories/168317-rockford-key-wind-set-pw-with-hidden-key Here is a link to more information on the hidden key watch

I read somewhere that the started making these during our "Civil War" for the Army so they woulden't loose the key. That sounds a bit far fetched.

It's just the basics of horology you always just adjust/repair the faulty part. By altering the arbour (if it works) it will only work with that specific spring.

From what I have found out about Chinese watch tools on the internet there a waste of money. If you want to have the best, you have to pay. What is the point of cheap and having the worry that the tool will be useless for the job it is intended for, it could cause unrepairable damage. I have had 30 odd years experience working with good reliable tools.