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So on paper the plan is outstanding except unfortunately I speak from experience with mean time screws. Mean time screws are interesting the threads have been designed so that the screw can be adjusted in and out and it stays wherever you leave it. But those are really tiny threads in brass and there's a limit of how much adjustment you could do. Plus we don't know the past history of how much adjustment other then they don't appear to be correct. So a modification of the plan to minimize screwing the screws too much. Otherwise you end up with loose meantime screws. So rather than going all the way in and coming out were only going to go in. We're not going to worry about whether they're in the right place or try to correct for poise because you can end up chasing your tail if you try to play with the screws without statically poising first. So first put the regulator at zero and see what it's doing on the timing machine. Then one full turn in of the mean time screws on the arm . Then one full turn of one Pair of screws isn't going to To be enough but you can use that as a gauge. To understand the effect of the mean time screws and timing I'm attaching a Hamilton PDF. You'll notice that they prefer to adjust all of the mean time screws this way the weight is evenly distributed. But I wouldn't worry about that for now if it all. Start with a pair see what happens more than likely it will be all the screws at least one turn they go to fractional turns when you're getting close and finally the regulator. Hamilton tech_note_on_regulation.pdf

To save filling up the WOS thread, I though I'd post my design of the watch/mic holder. This is the mark 2 design. There is still plenty to improve, but it works well. The parts: 12mm MDF board Sticky back foam http://amzn.eu/2OJAKGS Lapel Mic http://amzn.eu/5vx2I9Y Camera ball mount http://amzn.eu/cXi9TWv (Borrowed from my camera) Small spring http://amzn.eu/fmMyvMi Screws & Glue etc All that's missing is a mechanism to hold the watch in place. At the moment I'm using an elastic band. The Mic: all I did was remove the cap so that the watch back contacts the transducer instead of the case. The hole drilled in the MDF is big enough to allow the mic to move easily. There is a small spring threaded on the cable. On the back there is a small block with a slot and small hole to stop the spring going right through. The whole lot is fixed to a simple stand using the camera ball joint. This particular one allows a full range of movement so the watch can be held in any position. As mentioned before there is no pre-amp but the sound and volume seem reasonable. Mind you this is a pocket watch so it may not work as well with a wrist watch. Here is a recording of my Ingersol-trenton.wav

Picked up a staking kit from fleabay and as often with fleabay it's almost working lol When you lock down the platter? table? it doesn't quite lock. The plunger doesn't quite pull down enough. Not being familiar with this I can't work out if it's worn or there is a bit missing. I'm leaning towards the missing theory - maybe a shim under the table or a roller on the end of the locking shaft. Anyone seen one of this model/type before?

Often someone has a problem with a watch and after searching the internet, are fortunate to come across this forum. And after a reply are never heard of again and no feedback given as to the outcome. Then we have the individual, after the purchase of a hammer and chisel, usually of Chinese manufacture, believe they can undertake repairs and servicing. The general rule of thumb to be competent, would of had served under an experienced watchmaker for 6 years and then had a further 9 years practical experience, to be "Competent " There are professional people on the forum prepared to help and also talented amateurs. Then you have tinkerers such as myself, who have some successes and also failures but not before a lot of heartache. To try and help you, the guys on the forum will need to know specifically what you've done and where. Also lots of close up pictures of the movement. In the absence of this, the best advice I can give is to locate a reputable watch repairer. Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk

You should never remove the balance and pallets and let a movement just run down. It can cause any amount of damage.

I'm a very new hobbyist and don't currently have a winder. I see that new Bergeons are very costly. Will this set work for wristwatches? Is there any reason to avoid this type of winder? Thank you for any insight!

That looks more like a pedometer than a top watch to me

If you look at the PDF I attached previously you see for over coil type hairsprings the pins are supposed to be really really close. But if you read enough books enough references and look at enough watches then black and white rules do not necessarily exist. So we also look at the quality of the watch and when it was made. The pins themselves look to be non-bendable and as long as their parallel is the way the watch was designed. Theoretically today we know it's wrong but that was the way the watch was made. Sometimes the pins are more flexible you can bend them they won't be parallel but the hairspring doesn't move around enough to be a problem usually but it does depend on the watch.

This is from my Ingersol-Trenton as under discussion here Ingersol-trenton.wav

You all ROCK! About as good as I can get it for now. A piece of fuzz I have to remove from the hairspring but I don’t think it is going to get any better! Thank you for all the help! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As @anilv says the lower regulator is to far adjusted to the right. If you look from the upperside. The brass think on the time regulator should be there. Set the beat error by moving the upper arm. Sometimes the time adjusting arm comes along when you move the beat error arm.

You do not have 2 regulators. The upper one is the stud holder, once set correctly it need not be moved unless the balance needs to come apart. The lower one is the regulator which is used to adjust for fast/slow. This has only a limited range up to around 10 mins/day . If your watch has more error than the problem is elsewhere. There seems to be something on the hairpsring just before the regulator? Anilv