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Everything posted by p2n

  1. I found an old mechanism in the shed and decided to clean it up. It's now clean(er) and it needs about 6 new bushings - I can't quite do that yet. Until then I want to reassemble and check it over. I took a load of photos before disassembly but of course there is always one more I should have taken. This is it - the shaft the hammer sits on, is this the correct position relative to the leaf spring? There was nothing on this pin when I found the mechanism - what should be there? Finally there seems to be an excessive amount of movement in the spring barrel - not the shaft. So much so that the barrel fouls one of the wheels: When done will post the full story... (ps - again each file was 7MB and each failed to upload - error 200, but was ok when reduced in size)
  2. p2n

    Beginner - mechanism questions

    There is more to the clock - the images show it partially reassembled. In brief - we moved home last August and part of the agreement was we took on the new place 'as it' complete with junk. So while clearing the shad I found the remains of a clock. The case had long since surrengered to woodworm and damp. All that was left was the momement. No trace of the dial or hands. It was full of dust and 20 years worth of mouse dropping and nesting material. I've stripped it and cleaned it. I'm part was through re-assembling it. There is a lot of wear on most of the bushings but otherwise it seems like it should be repairable. This is the first clock I've done so I'm taking it slow. I can't make busings yet and can't afford the premade sets and tools - but I've got a mini-lathe. More photos here https://photos.app.goo.gl/deg3Q42VT1Rxpkyi6
  3. p2n

    Beginner - mechanism questions

    Here we go - front and back
  4. (First post in months - moved mid Aug and it's still chaos here) The new house was a fixer upper and the old guy was a a horder. We agreed to take it on with junk for a knock down price. Cleaning out the shed I found the skellington of a Napoleon Mantle clock. 20+ years in a damp shed and between the rot and the woodworm there wasn't much left and what was there disintegrated when I listed it. BUT there was a mechanism there - no face just the mech. That was the best thing I found in there (in fact the only thing of note) Never worked on a clock before but thought this would be a good intro. It appeared to have had a good oiling (read 3-in-1) at some point in the past so other than a few bits wasn't corroded. Pulled the fluff and wood debris out and gave it a blast in the cleaner. Stripped it down except for two shafts - I think the ends are press on and simply need to be pulled off, but don't want to get it wrong and bugger it up. So how do I remove these two?
  5. p2n

    Beginner: How do I get these off?

    Thank you - think I'll try and remove it all. My ultrasonic cleaner isn't that big so it doesn't really fit with the shaft in.
  6. p2n

    Posting lots of pictures

    Have just had exactly the same problem (same error message). Tried one at a time but that didn't work. In the end used smaller lower grade images.
  7. Dumb newbe question. Calibre - what exactly is meant by this with regard to watches? It's probably so obvious that no one bothers to say what it is, but I can't work it out :$ Cousins need it for their search, but the pocketwatch database dosesn't quote it. e.g. this elgin movement - which of these values is it's "calibre"? https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/elgin/18566460/movement
  8. To save filling up the WOS thread, I though I'd post my design of the watch/mic holder. This is the mark 2 design. There is still plenty to improve, but it works well. The parts: 12mm MDF board Sticky back foam http://amzn.eu/2OJAKGS Lapel Mic http://amzn.eu/5vx2I9Y Camera ball mount http://amzn.eu/cXi9TWv (Borrowed from my camera) Small spring http://amzn.eu/fmMyvMi Screws & Glue etc All that's missing is a mechanism to hold the watch in place. At the moment I'm using an elastic band. The Mic: all I did was remove the cap so that the watch back contacts the transducer instead of the case. The hole drilled in the MDF is big enough to allow the mic to move easily. There is a small spring threaded on the cable. On the back there is a small block with a slot and small hole to stop the spring going right through. The whole lot is fixed to a simple stand using the camera ball joint. This particular one allows a full range of movement so the watch can be held in any position. As mentioned before there is no pre-amp but the sound and volume seem reasonable. Mind you this is a pocket watch so it may not work as well with a wrist watch. Here is a recording of my Ingersol-trenton.wav
  9. p2n

    Tick by frame?

    lol - yes, there were a few frames with bits of me in - thought I'd deleted them but missed one or two.
  10. Thought I'd try something different.... My first every stop frame video... https://youtu.be/srqzHXbt3DI
  11. I don't normally do quartz but when I showed my father a watch I'd done he dug this old Viceroy out of a drawer and asked if I could look at it, "Got sentimental value that" he said. Oh well, it's full of gum, got a flat battery and a stuck button. I've blasted it in the U/S and the water was black when done lol. I've not done a quartz watch button - how do I get this out and back? It looks to be a minute c-clip. If I push it off will I ever get it back on again or do I need a special tool?
  12. Sorry - meant to post at the time.... all done and working fine. One happy dad.
  13. There isn't a serial number on this one so not sure of the age yet. Looks like it's got a radium dial though How do you safely handle that? Can the radium paint be removed/dissolved?
  14. While true I think a bit of pragmatism is needed. If I bought the correct tool for every job I did (watches or otherwise) then I would need a warehouse to keep them all I would need another mortgage to pay for them all
  15. Roger - that's what I'm worried about lol.
  16. lol - good advice. Ok - will be careful. It looks to still be solid - no dust of breakup.
  17. Found this on ebay the other week. Cost £2.45 – I’m a big spender me! When I got it the first thing I noticed was the smell. Whoever owned this didn’t just smoke – they must have eaten tobacco and coated themselves with tobacco tar. So stripped it down and put it in the cleaner. Twice. Still got a hint of tobacco tar. I looked up the serial number and this was made between 1900 and 1905. It’s one of the Ingersoll watches that were sold in the UK for 4/- (4 shillings – or about 20p - today that’s around £70). Pin pallet and damn fiddly to get back together. Anyway – it's back in one piece and it runs nicely (gaining slightly and if you've seen any of my other posts you know my nemesis is everything runs slow - so fast is great lol). Dials a bit of a mess so made a new one: And here it is – needs a bow, second hand and maybe a new crystal. Might need to reprint the dial as damaged it a bit - the laser print is more delicate than you'd think. What ever coating the case has is long since gone - it's left a patina that looks almost like a tortoise shell in places - probably all that tobacco tar lol (I wanted to get more photos of the job in progress but I end up getting engrossed and forget to take any)
  18. p2n

    Reposition mechanism

    It's a gong. I see what mean - for some reason I was thinking I couldn't recess the dial - but it's mounted on the movement so I can.
  19. p2n

    Reposition mechanism

    I couldn't resist and bought a "grandfather clock" - you should have heard what the missus said when I got home lol. Anyway - it was only £20 on gumtree. It's got a Mermle 241.080 movement which seems to be in working order (needs a clean as it's all been sat in a garage for 2+ years). The case looks a little dubious - possibly home made. Anyhow - the mechanism is mounted to far forward so that the weights just touch the inside of the door. (which is probably why the top pane of glass is missing). To mount it further back I would need to increase the length of the minute and hour shafts. Looking on cousins it seems to show different length options - is this correct or am I misreading it all? Are there any other options? Original pics from ad:
  20. p2n

    Reposition mechanism

    The case defiantly looks amateur - but for £20 I'm not worried. Might just be worth scrapping the case and keeping the movement? Date stamp shows this was made in 1989. Better photos. As you can see the mounting is crude and too far forward. Oh yeah the missus said "What the @*!% is that and where the hell are you thinking of putting it and it's not going in the living room and you better not get any more the place already looks a mess with all these damn clocks ticking all the time and cluttering up the place ...... <carried on like that with no pause or punctuation for while longer> ... well, does it work?"
  21. Been trying to fit the mains spring on my Elgin B&B. I broke the last one. I've hand fitted the spring but the arbour won't catch. A close look shows this seems to be because the hole in the end of the spring is further back on the new spring than the old one. All these photos are the same scale. The red lines indicate the problem measurement - the old spring and the arbour match, but the new spring is bigger. I can't change the new spring so is it acceptable to file the arbour to make that space a little longer?
  22. p2n

    Reposition mechanism

    Yes - typo. It's held in with two screws on the bottom to a fixed board (will do some photos tonight). I could reposition it and holes, but that would mean the minute shaft would be too short to reach the dial - hence was wondering if there were longer versions.
  23. Any tips would be welcome. My needle file seems huge compared to the size of the spring.
  24. I was just concerned I'd weaken the spring - but I suppose if the original was like that... Ok - will try and file the mainspring end.