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I don't think you could beat a hand broaching tool; wide range of hole sizes and it clamps very securely.

https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1A5rQM7MtebExRApg6elWTTBaIS_psTu1/edit?usp=share_link&ouid=102423790676520463184&rtpof=true&sd=true This document is not mine but I i thought I should share this to you. It covered almost everything you need to know about Etachron, remove, install, adjusting, etc... and there are videos inside. Go slow and be patience and you should be able to do it. Just one more thing I want to add which is my own experience, I found that balance complete replacement parts for these Seiko movement or ETA movement aswell is not really perfect ready to go, the hairspring overcoil needed some adjustment. As you can see the distances are slightly not equal in your replacement hairspring overcoil: If you don't make any adjustment to correct that your hairsping will look like this once installed: Here is the final result. To me this looks idea. You can't correct this imperfection by rotating the stud carrier, bent has to be make to the hairspring. Make sure that, 1. All coils are evenly spaced, 2. The balance pivot should rest right at the center of the balance cock jewel hole, 3. The hairspring is dead flat and parralel to the balance cock and mainplate. Then you just have to adjust the Etachron regulator following the document.

Hi, Welcome to the forum.

As it was an anniversary watch from your employer, could you not hand it back and say is this all you think of my loyal service, assuming you still work for them loose screws and a detached hand from new is not really acceptable is it. As others have said its a front loader if you insist on a DIY repair, I would put the two loose screws back in before removing the front, that way the movement will stay in place and it will be easier to handle whilst trying to refit the second hand, assuming it can be refited and it's not fallen off because it's not possible to get a tight fit on it's pinion. If its an option I would take it back for a replacement.

I have lost balance pivots in ultrasonic, seems to happen regardless of what cleaning solution you use, I believe its due to vibrations. Rgds

From the Seiko technical guide

Hi Sean, any chance we can get a look at the front and the side of the watch? Looking at that movement it is quite likely it is front loaded, meaning the glass needs to be removed to access the hands and dial.

Here we go, i have this Week my Project #3 completed, a Watch based on a 2824-2/ST2130 Movement. As i am a Beginner, this is an example for a successful Assembly. The Case, Dial and Hands are from the same Seller, the Band is from Hirsch, but the Buckle is from China, the Movement is a Seagull ST2130. Lets have a Look... i hope you like it it regards, Ernst

practice, practice will be just one needed component here. Without a curve tweezers I cannot imagine to reform this kind of damage No balance Durowe 202 in stock, I am sorry. You may find it as Durowe 10 1/2, 410 or 412, too. Frank

The 388 battery was a mercury cell and as such has been out of manufacture now for decades. It appears that 329, 392, or 384 cell may be suitable alternatives although they are slightly smaller than the 388. At least one company supplies a 329 to 388 converter here.

This might help with the date of the case.

See Fried’s book ‘Bench Practices for Watch Repairers’. And this web site with great photos of the process. http://www.bobinchak.com/watchmaking/2017/4/26/hairspring-week-vibrating-the-hairspring?format=amp

@JohnR725@gbyleveldt thank you guys again for the great help! here is some progress i have. Adding a metal sheet around the square jar, star shape baffle in the bottom, and my fluid just enough to submerge my basket (including the basket cap/fan), it looks like the vortex is gone and waves go into the basket. I don't have RPM meter so I couldn't be sure if it's the right speed but there's no bubble as I read from one of the threads that it shouldn't have. Is there any way I could verify the efficiency of cleaning watch parts? (even for the commercial watch cleaning machine, I couldn't find any metrics or documents indicate that) Pardon me for keeping asking stupid questions. Video

If the balance is mounted and jewels removed for cleaning, the pivots are protected and can come to no harm due to impact damage. Lighter fluid (naphtha) is not a solvent for shellac. That's not the cause of the problem. I too did an experiment with shellac in an ultrasonic, and found that as long as the shellac is 'aged', there is no significant damage using small ultrasonic cleaners for a few minutes. (I clean 3-5mins, rinse 1-3 mins) L&R and Elma cleaning fluids are advertised as 'ultrasonic' cleaners. The user guides make no mention of not using it for shellaced parts. I always clean the balance and forks in the ultrasonic. The key question is, how powerful is the ultrasonic? You use a hammer to fit a balance staff, but not a sledgehammer. If you use a big powerful, industrial ultrasonic you can cause all sorts of damage - removing shellac, pitting surfaces etc. I use a small 60W ultrasonic and have seen no damage or loss of shellac. I know that the "proper" cleaning machines are preferable to ultrasonics. But as I'm only a home hobbyist with limited space, they do the job.

Boy, did I ever get lucky! I went back to a local antique mall (more of a flea market, really) early this morning to buy something I'd seen several days ago. And it was still there! And this time, I had money! A Girard Perregaux Gyromatic. Not running, so they weren't asking much. I bought it and went straight home to my bench. Cleaned, inspected, oiled, regulated, and now it runs quite nicely. Fitted with a nice patent leather strap, and I've been wearing it this evening. I often turn about and sell many of the watches I rescue and repair, but not this one. Not this time. I took a liking to it rather quickly. Addendum: it has a 17j GP 21.19 plated with gold. It's a jem to look at. And a 14k gf case which took a nice polish. The original crystal is not too terrible at all, so I'm thinking of leaving it on.

1970 Seiko 5606-7000 with hand made stamp dial. Running at 0 SPD and amplitude over 300 degrees at full wind.

Unitas Calibre 6325 Service Walkthrough Pictures - Disassembly (Please sort the pictures by name in ascending order) For the disassembly sequence to make sense it is very important that the pictures are sorted by name in ascending order. Generally, the sequence of pictures first shows the part to be removed in its position on the movement and the following picture shows the removed part separately. Unitas Calibre 6325 Service Walkthrough Pictures - Assembly (Please sort the pictures by name in ascending order) For the assembly sequence to make sense it is very important that the pictures are sorted by name in ascending order. Generally, the sequence of pictures first shows the part to be assembled along with any screws holding it in place. The following picture shows the section of the movement where that part is to be assembled along with my lubrication suggestion, and the picture after that shows the part when assembled on the movement. The Unitas calibre 6325 is very similar to the Unitas calibre 6498 which is the course movement on watchrepairlessons.com. Unfortunately, due to its increasing popularity, the Unitas calibre 6498 is becoming more and more expensive, although there are inexpensive Chinese clones. So, in my opinion, Unitas calibre 6325 is an excellent and inexpensive option for the course. As a matter of fact, there is a version of the Unitas calibre 6325 having a bridge configuration that looks to be identical to the Unitas calibre 6498. You’ll find plenty of watches housing the Unitas calibre 6325 on eBay. Unitas Calibre 6325 links: bidfun-db Archive: Watch Movements: Unitas 6325 - mtr-Ranfft Unitas 6325 - 17jewels.info „Wehrmachtswerk“; Unitas 6325 - Junghans Vintage