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Videos are nice, I am used to the unplugged version: looking up a textbook There are just two basic rules (had already postet this before): - coil gap too wide or too narrow: bend 90 degrees from the max/min gap - coil out of flat: bend opposite (180 deg.) to the max. height: These rules help finding the right spot for bending, avoid wild guessing. But it still needs practice, if video or textbook. Frank

It's simpler than that. The hairspring is matched to the balance assembly, which is comprised of the balance, staff and roller. For all intents and purposes the roller and staff are interchangeable; if you replace a staff (carefully) there is rarely any need to even touch the poise, much less the general rate, same with roller. But the inertia of one balance compared to another, even seemingly identical, can vary wildly, so springs and balances become a set. Also, you would never remove and reinstall a staff, as it would just be a mess.

Hi Ross, You already have acheived a great deal, actually the movement itself is a good teacher, by the time this project of your is finished, you will have acquired plenty of knowledge and no book can teach the dexterity you gain along the way. A couple of more projects and you gain much confidence. All the best.

Hello, I bought a Jacot tool (yea!). It came with this ring thing. Does anyone know where it goes and what it does? Many thanks. Arron.

Lately I have been having some issues when replacing quartz movements. It seems they run fine when they are static, but when they are worn they do not keep time. This has happened with 4 completely different movements Rhonda, ETA and Hattori. I can’t figure it out. My tools are all antimag, clean and replacement measurements are correct to original. The only thing I can come up with is if I omitted the little bushing that is installed on the pivot before the dial is installed. What do you call that part and would that cause the issue I am experiencing? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I didn't have much luck searching for one to purchase. This will have to do for now, made from a cheapo screwdriver. not quite centered, but works well enough

Depending on the price, and how many watches you do, it might be worth it. Cousins sell tubes by size, but only in packs of 12, so not especially cheap. It might be worth waiting until you actually need a new tubes. I only service my own watches, and (in the 60-70) I've never needed new pendant tubes.

That is correct, it's common that day/date Seiko are named as date + 1.

If the movement shows some top tier manufacturer, would the seller not have shown that in the listing? Alternatively, do you have reason to believe the case is difficult to open? What's your plan for hands?

Book is a Jendritzki (German, but there are many good books in English, too, I am sure). "Black dots" are tweezers (cross section), a pin and a tweezers are also ok. In the vertical plane, one tweezers is twisted (arrow means backwards here) , which twists the spring blade. Hard to show with a 2D sketch. Frank

Hi The condition of the case is woe ful, loss of plating and wear. As the dial its self is in good condition I would think a clean and replate of the case would enhance the watch, as it is it detracts from the general apperance, Its your watch but in my opinion it would be better done than left undone.

The Eight day has me intrigued. There are a few similar examples online, all of which are from quality manufacturers including Tiffany. "E.E. Bishop - Bournemouth" seems to have been a quality Jeweller, importing Rolex pocket watches amongst other things. https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/11722/lot/142/ From the above Bonhams Auction link from 2005, we find this rather attractive gold Rolex pocket watch lot. There is also this silver gilt carriage clock with the dial marked ‘Examd by E.E. Bishop, 17 Arcade, Bournemouth.' https://www.richardgardnerantiques.co.uk/shop/clocks-barometers/antique-silver-and-silver-gilt-carriage-clock/ Perhaps the most similar in terms of the dial layout and font style is an Omega, although dials were often very similar between different manufacturers as they were often outsourced. I guess what all this means is that there is a reasonable chance this is actually going to have a quality movement in it. Perhaps Doxa, perhaps Omega. We will have to wait and see what shows up in the mail.

Excellent advice. Thank you folks Nucejoe. I am going to order the ETA 2789 part from Speedtimerkolection, A great site. Will keep you all updated. Note. I appreciate the comments on nomenclature. I am learning, Slowly, and it is comments from yourselves that really does help. I take no offence for the nudges. I have mild dyslexia in that when I read a technical book about a subject, I have great difficulty in dissimilating the information. Had read a few books about watches and hardly anything sticks. However, the videos and comments from members is really helping. I will get there. Honest. Regards to all. Ross

Same story for escape wheel. all 21600 interchange, so would all 28800.

They surely are. But as it happens, Omega was first reluctant and then applied modifications to Daniel's that left him upset to say the least. After many years of production it didn't proved to be a big enough progress or market differentiator, and nobody else so far has adopted it.

They weren't always that way, but in recent years all UK (and most European) registration plates are laminated acrylic. White and reflective at the front. Yellow (also reflective) at the rear. Basically a thermal printed lettering on a reflective plastic backing, thermally glued/laminated on to a thicker acrylic front piece. You can peel off the backing with a hot air gun and with care you end up with a clear acrylic sheet. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_registration_plates_of_the_United_Kingdom

Hi all, Sorry for late reply, life took over and have been busy with Mark's course. Half way through the second course and thoroughly enjoying it. Unfortunately @JohnR725 not a clue! Received some L&R clean and rinse on Friday and thought I'd give it a go. Up until now I've been using Naptha (lighter fluid) and IPA. WOW.... what a difference, worth every penny. Anyway, totally stripped the movement again and washed in L&R Extra Fine and then 2 rinses in L&R Ultrasonic Watch Rinse, pegged, lubricated etc and ended up with this Has been running for 3 days now in various positions with any gain unnoticeable and this is her reading on the Weishi. It is not perfect but she is running constantly now and at this stage I can't ask for any more than that. I guess that something was not perfectly aligned in the movement before or there was a hidden piece of dirt lurking about! A massive thank you to everyone that helped above. I've really enjoyed my first watch and looking forward to many new projects when I've finished Mark's courses. So what have I learnt that might help newcomers? Check, check and triple check your work is something is not right. Do NOT bother with cheap Chinese tweezers. I started with a set of 6 sold as watchmakers tweezers and have spent a few hours on my knees with a diving magnet during this project. In the end bought a second hand pair off of e-bay from a watchmakers estate for £3 and what a difference, not pretty but they are a joy to use You can never have enough trays with dust covers. Proper cleaning solutions and rinses are worth the money. If nothing else the movement comes out nice and shiny how you want it to look after you have cleaned it. Probably one of the most important things I've learnt is have a nice working environment. When I started on this project I was working on my home office desk with a keyboard in front of me and clutter everywhere. After watching Mark's first videos I decided to clear a wall in the office and put in a dedicated bench with good lighting. It's now a pleasure to work on a watch, rather than having to move mounds of paperwork out of the way. BR, Charlie

My dad used to do a bit of silver jewellery work (as a hobby) back then. He also collected coins from time to time. I remember as kids back then, going through piles of "silver" coins, the shillings, sixpences, two-bob bits and so forth with him, looking for the ones that contained actual silver. The majority were copper-nickel, but the older stuff contained a certain percentage of silver, depending on how old they were. It was worth finding them for their scrap value, and for melting down to make jewellery. I'm pretty sure that defacing a coin of the realm in this way was probably justification for a one way ticket to the Tower of London, but I'm sure nobody will ever know. Its not as if i am ever going to confess to the crime on a public forum.... err... well... don't tell anybody... I wonder what happened to his hallmarking stamp.

I don't say that from a position of tooling around in luxury cars and looking down my nose at the plebes. A photo from my parking spot at a previous job. Hint, I've never owned an Aston. Also, this was before the prices on buses skyrocketed (or at least at the beginning of launch). The guy that usually parked on the other side had a Range Rover Sport Bourgeoisie edition (I don't know what it actually was, but it was the most expensive one available at the time and he wanted everyone to know it). The Commercial model buses only had door cards on the driver and passenger doors for an interior. Maybe across the front, but mine was missing that by the time I got it. I had a huge car club back then, and we used to love "classing down the joint" and parking with all the other German cars (mostly BMWs, with the occasional modern VW and Mercedes thrown in) at shows.

I learned to drive in a Leyland Mini Metro (1980–83: 998 cc A-Series I4, 45 bhp (34 kW; 46 PS) at 5400 rpm and 53 lb·ft (73 Nm) at 3000 rpm) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Austin_Metro Pretty much *ANYTHING* is a luxury car compared with that. The closest thing it came to having Corrinthian Leather would be if you parked it in a field of cows.

The 5M65 is bigger and wouldn't fit in place of a 5M62. You could use a 5M82 but considering its price new a reasonable approach would be getting a donor mov.t or watch, otherwise accept the loss and sell for parts.

I have added the ability to set the Radius of the stem cutout as a parameter in the spreadsheet. Also reduced the height of the overall holder. MovementHolder.FCStd