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Have a check of the attached. You definitely need digital calipers when working on watches, as well a crystal press. Crystal Codes.pdf

Cousins has it for £10.95. Even though I'm in the states sometimes I order from Cousins as they have a great selection. https://www.cousinsuk.com/search?SearchTerm=310P03HN03

I found this lot on Saturday for $50. I'm counting 10 watches for $50. 404 club? I'll have lots of questions on this lot.

I like tapered broaches for adjusting hands as it gives a nice gradual interference fit.

It's a regular flat crystal, you can fit a generic cone for $1. Or a sapphire to not worry again about it.

That's not a reliable way of telling the difference. The most reliable way is to look at the shape of the spokes on the balance wheel, provided it's genuine. Top grades have an hourglass shape to them. Lower grades have straight taper. Chinese clones might also use the hourglass shape but to my knowledge no Chinese clones have yet attempted a snailing finish on the outer perimeter of the movement like ETA does. So if the picture is actually of the item sold I'm fairly confident it's a genuine TOP grade balance complete.

Well one advantage using a 2836 over 2824 even for date only is the instantaneous day/date jump the 2836 has. The 2824 has the date start tilting slightly for about 10 minutes before the jump. Some would say semi-instantaneous. But the 2836 flips both day and date Rolex style: absolute-instantaneous. Simultaneously. You blink you miss. It's pretty neat. 20200828_124839[1].mp4

Hello! my name is Alex, I'm from Moscow. For the last 10 years I have been doing watch repair. If any of you need help with repairs or need to find Soviet or Russian watches and accessories, please contact. I'll be glad to help!

Just another day of which to wear.... so why not just wear all of them!

I see no reason why the jeweling reamer wouldn't work as the object is to remove a small amount of metal

If you're after a full movement, why not side step into a Sellita. Save some money and future proof yourself. Some may disagree, but as far as I'm able to ascertain (admittedly not having had an example of each in hand), it seems they're essentially identical in terms of quality. Some parts are interchangeable, and some are slightly different, but the dimensions are the same. Also, if the difference between a 2824 and a 2836 is the day function, I was under the impression they'd just be leaving those parts off. When I get around to it, I'll be removing the ghost day/date from the 2824 in my daily driver, and I'll just pull the parts and swap the detent spring. Why would there be a height difference?

Thanks again @VWatchie

Just wondering; provided a suitable size is available, could a jeweling tool reamer be used for this job?

The heater lamp can just go in parallel with the heater element, assuming it's a 240V neon.

Hi Broaches can be bought either singly or in sets depending on what you want, they also come in varying sizes as shown in the following link https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/0020-to-080mm-bergeon. The picture I salvaged from ebay but the same can be found on ngclocks.co.uk clockparts.co.uk and also cousins uk cheers

HI Other than reaming (broaching )the hand to fit not a lot you can do, other than new hands. Hand sizes differ according to the movement and there are a great number of styles. There are round shaft, euroshaft, "I" shaft. The I shaft and euroshaft are similar and the Min hand has an elongated fitting and the hour hand is round, so carefull attention with a broach will probably do the job but after every turn of the broach check the fit.

I've had several watches with incredibly tight case backs. The glued nut and wrench has worked for me 100% of the times so far. I don't use a case holder when using the wrench as you can break it, instead I wrap it on a piece of fabric so I don't hurt my hand when holding it. Then I let the case back on pure acetone until the CA dissolves.

If the roller table is physically larger then you definitely going to have an issue. Usually this stuff is adjusted reasonably close and it's physically too big year probably rubbing which would be undesirable.

I just wanted to post and say thank you to MarkR. I received the screwdriver sleeve today in the mail and I appreciate it very much. My original set was 0.80, 1.00, 1.20, 1.40, and 1.60. Then I bought individual 0.50, 0.60, 2.00, 2.50, and 3.00 screwdrivers. Being very picky as I am I really wanted the 5 new screwdrivers in a sleeve as I don't work on watches every day and I don't keep the screwdrivers in a stand. Mark very kindly sent me a sleeve he wasn't using. Then I made new cardboard inserts for the tops of both sleeves so I could put the two collections into size order and have 0.50, 0.60, 0.80, 1.00, and 1.20 in the first sleeve and 1.40, 1.60, 2.00, 2.50, and 3.00 in the second sleeve. Now all is right with the world and I can get back to working on my friend's watch. Thanks again Mark!

Yes, 3.5ms with a new ms would be ok. Another thing I just thought of is that most of these Russian watches have an overcoil hairspring. If the curve is not correct the outer coil may touch the next one as it goes up and over. Anilv

My family has a long history in the watch and clock industry. My grandfather was a watchmaker, as was his brother. My great grandfather was a watchmaker and back in 1986 when he passed away at the age of 13 I was given his watchmaker lathe. My great great grandfather used to own a run a watch and jewellery shop on Oxford St in Sydney in the 1920s and although I have not found any positive evidence he was a watchmaker I would say it was highly likely he was. Three years ago I was given my grandfathers watchmakers toolbox which my steo uncle had stored in his shed for 15 years after my grandfather passed away, as a consiquence I have a number of old tools, some that I know where my great grandfathers, some my grandfathers and some that are old enough to of been old even if they had belonged to my great great grandfather. A couple of weeks ago I wanted to make a special graver for my watchmakers lathe and I was pretty sure I still had some old gravers in my grandfathers toolbox I hadn't yet refurbished so I went for a dig. I found one that had clearly started it's life as a needle file and as some point in the past the file had snapped off the square handle and this had then been made into a graver. I decided to clean this up and resharpen it as the graver I was making would only ever see little use as it was for creating chamfers on balance staffs. After sharpening it I noticed it had a brand name on it. 'Antonine Glardon A Vallorbes' I knew the brand Valorbe, but not Antonine Glardon, a bit of a Google search turned up the Valorbe company history page http://www.vallorbe.com/en-ch/company/history and it states ' in 1899, Vallorbe's three largest factories, Borloz & Noguet-Borloz, Antoine Glardon & Cie and Grobet SA merged to create Usines Métallurgiques de Vallorbe. ' So if I am reading this correctly this file must of been made before 1899. I also have a pivot burnisher labelled 'David Borloz Valorbe' so it would also date no later than 1899. A quick dig through my pivot files I use and other in my grandfather's toolbox turned up 8 or 9 files labelled 'Antonine Glardon A Vallorbes'. I am using the graver made from the handle of a file and the pivot file on the left in this photo below as it is finer and better than my new one I bought from Cousins, the otehr are just in the photo so you can see some other of these files. This would mean the oldest tools I am still using are atleast 120 years old. What's the oldest tool you still use?

Hey Smokey, Doesn't sound like it. Having a seconds hand hit the mark ALL the way around a watch is tricky. Not impossible (See Grand Seiko), but tricky. Gravity is not your friend, which is why when you rotate the watch you're able to keep it on point. In general, if you hold a watch vertical, because of gravity, the second hand will hit the mark on one side of the watch and miss on the other. I believe generally it will start to miss on the 3 o'clock side but as it comes around and goes back up on the 9 o'clock side it will hit the marks again. Flip the watch upside down (6 o'clock up) and it will do the opposite. Nothing wrong with the watch or the movement...you're just on the wrong planet.

Not all are the same. From the looks the OP's one is poor. Seagull for example have a good reputation, i have the super thin auto and looks good, but they intensively grade production and you can be sure that as an individual Internet buyer will only get the lowest. Sometime they don't even lubricate them at all. All depends by the whim of the factory manager that day. The old manual wind that I reviewed recentlyn are great time keepers and precisely built, but the screws and shock springs are fragile. One has to go with a much lighter hand compared to a quality mov.t. I don't decline Chinese watches but advise the owner that I can't provide a warranty, even when replacing the mov's as it happens one have to. I decline fakes however. That is wise. I got a twin cylinder air compressor from my neighbor with the clear statement that I don't know I can fix it. But he wanted to dispose of it, so it's OK to try.

I fixed up a rather nice blue dialled Crystron some time last year. I also have an LCD Crystron and another analog one that required some major PCB surgery to fix up battery leakage damage. They are very well built little watches.

I'll try to mail it to you tomorrow. No charge. Pass it on.

I have one that goes from 0.50 to 1.20 if that would help you.