Leaderboard

Just finished the Level 3 Watch repair course and it was great. Tons of great information and excellent instruction by Mark. Scored well too. Can’t wait for the Level 4 Course just to see it I’m doing it right. Great tips throughout the course as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

If a new spring, set the collet on top and see how much (if any) inner spring you need to remove. Ideal would be the collet just fits in the coils plus a little play. Now form the bit that will go in the collet. Slide the collet on a smoothing broach. Get the bit of spring in the hole, then in goes the taper pin. Be sure the pin is on the same side of the spring! Level the exiting part, seat the pin. Now trim it with very fine nippers. With a small fine file (6 or 8 cut), with the side honed smooth, trim the pin and fully seat the pin, then retrimming the exit side. It will look horrible until you trim the pin, but if you eyeball level the 90something degreed from the pinned point it'll look pretty good after trimming. Now you need to level and true in the round properly. It's fine work. It's handy to have a tweezer with one end shortened for fully seating the pin.

Dispite teaching his students daily, I think Nickelsilver has long forgotten what it was like as a bigginer, though this is a case of simple manipulation. HS removal offers many advantages,You can see the coils shape on a white piece of paper, that helps to evaluate where you are and where you need to get. The shape you see is the acutal, under no stress, unrestraint.No matter how well you manipulate on the BW, the impulse pin always ends up out of beat. You have access to infinate angle of attacks, further plennty of space at all angles of attack. Direct access and so on. Members may eventually all get skilled enough to get any descent results through on wheel manipulation. That is PhD level to me.

Just for fun, I stuck the Roxedo on the time grapher. Bear in mind, this is a pin lever, which I replaced the balance and fork in, back in November with one from a scrap movement. It also was cleaned and adjusted. There is no simple way to adjust the beat error, so back then, I just left it as it was, and set the rate, rather than risk fiddling with the hairspring. This is how it looked when it arrived with the broken fork and dodgy balance. Today all I did was grab it wind it and stuck it on my wrist. It is far from perfect, and certainly wouldn't win any prizes but for those doubters that say pin levers are rubbish, unreliable and don't last, this thing has been clacking away like an old alarm clock, probably since the 1970s or perhaps even the late 1960s, judging by the style, and is still keeping reasonable time. I'm pretty happy with those numbers.

An old favorite, the Roxedo EB 8800 pin lever is back on my wrist today. I like the simple uncluttered elegance of the design of this piece. It make a very readable, robust and comfortable daily wearer.

Agree with the above, but in my limited experience playing around with damaged hairsprings, I get best results if the hairspring is removed from the balance staff. Then lay on a sheet of white paper. Sharpen your tweezers really fine. Take time, and come back to the job every 15minutes. Don’t be keen to finish in one go. When the damaged areas are teased back into form, keep laying the hairspring onto the cock and make final adjustments to the stud area so that it is perfectly concentric. Also pay attention to keeping the stud upright, of not it’ll push the hairspring out of flat when reinstalled into the cock. Take your time. Good luck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is much easier if the movement is screwed in the case, then wind it and try to set the hands.

Hi @oldhippy , what dose re- facing the cups involve, what tools do I need? The right size counter sink drill.

Well done JD, excellent marks as well.

@AlamedaMike Yes, the SF one. Didn't mean to sound Silicon-centric. Also noteworthy, @JerseyMo helped me figure out the battery clip in my Timex. Now I'm shopping for a new strap to refresh the look. As an aside, do you folks change out the rubber gaskets in your watches? If so, how often? The one in my Timex looked fine and it's less than 10 years old.

It played fine on my tablet, thanks for posting

Thats a good standard. Golf is what i do for a living, watches are more fun tho a lot more frustrating, for a novice anyway.

Please ignore my post as only two words at end got printed, I have no idea where the rest of my post is, perhaps the dog got it.

On behalf of "Watch Repair Talk" moderators, I would like to extend a warm welcome to all new members. This is a friendly place with plenty of knowledgeable people who have varying degrees of horological expertise, the great thing is they are willing to share that invaluable knowledge and help one another. To help us keep things running smoothly, I would ask all new members to read the forum rules and place their posts in the correct sections.

For what its worth. I think this thread is a little confusing. It is confusing new members.