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Correct. But people wants technology even where isn't needed, or the collector's pleasure of having an archaic machine heat , shake and swap jars for them.

When I have fitted the stones I have made sure both are exactly the same height. Using the the tool I showed in my original reply post makes this relatively simple to achieve.

Hmmm. I thought about what it could be. It’s possible that the sleeve is the remains of the broken off crown and it is simply still threaded onto the stem. If so, you could unscrew it and find another crown with a sleeve to fit the stem and case combination. Steve Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

There's another option for something like this and that is dissolve the shellac ain alcohol and make a glue. Then you can just put a small amount on the fork let the alcohol evaporate and it's fine. This also works if you think the stones are loosing you don't want to play with heating them up you just glue things back. Then because this is still shellac if you have to move things around later on it works just fine. Versus some other inappropriate method of gluing the stones in.

That Bergeon tool looks nice but as a hobbyist I have a hard time justifying that kind of money. I did manage to get one of the jewels reset and am currently working on the other.

I do not recommend this. You could undo the plates by a little and remove the pallets. Make sure to add oil to all parts that will run. Be very careful not to bend any pivots (its soft metal) the train will run down, you can put a finger on the train to ease the run down. When it is down you can take it apart and clean. You should be able to remove both springs from there arbors. Take note of how and where the springs are attached, they should be open loop and attached to the pillars. When putting it back together make sure, the springs are attached to their arbors. So the movement is together and tightened down, wind the springs up and as you go you should be able to attach the open part of the spring over their proper pillars.

Split stem, so they regularly go missing. You’ll need the case reference or movement calibre to find the correct parts. Remove crystal, rotate movement, and very carefully pop out.

Yes it would.

O, ok. Well the dial bending isn't the problem then. It was a problem on a watch I was working on - mostly due to an inept watchmaker...me. From how you describe the canon pinion it could well be the issue or there may be some slippage in the intermediate wheel that connects between the minute and hour wheel. This may have already been mentioned.

If it still stops it may be that it needs a rim spacer instead of a wavy washer. Good luck

If you have a staking tool you can use it to tighten the canon pinion by resting it on one wedge-shaped attachment while resting another like attachment against the top and then giving it a tap with a jeweller's hammer. It is best to limit the "crush" with a needle. I know this works because I've done it but you need to be VERY careful and fit it after every tap. If you go too far it is almost impossible to undo your mistake. But perhaps a wavy washer is not what you need here. Both a 2824-2 and a 2836-2 movement use a spacer ring around the outside of the movement instead of a wavy washer because the dial will bend if a wavy washer is used and this can stop both the date wheel and the hands from moving properly. I'd check to see if this is the case. From the look of your watch I think it may be.

Hi, I do not like the look of those gear teeth. However if you want to tighten the canon pinion there are several ways. Too protracted for me to go into here as the canon pinion has to be accurately set. However, you may be able to see a witness mark where it was originally set and if so then you could push an arbor thru it that is a slide fit so that it will not collapse and very carefully tighten it with a slight tap on the witness marks and then remove the arbor. Be very careful as the canon has to fit with just a little frictional contact over the centre wheel arbor in order to get the required drive to the hands. I am very tired now so I hope that I have got this right. Mike.

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/6604-tightening-a-cannon-pinion-on-wrist-and-offset-cannons-also/

I find your question amusingly interesting and the answer is no it's not sufficient. Then you're missing two sets and I ha link below that shows them. Your sets that you picked have both the left and right handles. Then the missing sets only have only the right handles. Plus an entire page is missing from the catalog there's another kind of handle that came in both right and left. The set of 17 is also interesting in that it doesn't actually have every single one they make it is missing two sizes. So the missing ones are missing because you're probably almost never going to use them but they are available. The sets that are available with only the right handles because you almost never need a left handle almost. Then the smaller set would cover the typical watches they assume you're going to run into. Then the problem with asking is it sufficient depends upon who is answering as to their experiences and what they work on. Then there is other problem that come up modern versus older mainsprings for instance. Notice my reference to the missing handles above? So if you look at the description the handles are labeled for NIVAFLEX mainsprings which is basically the modern mainsprings. So in the older catalog that I have the description for the other handles is "usual mainsprings" Which basically translates to the older steel mainsprings which are typically blue. If you purchase a set incredibly old this is the type of handles you'll get. I've attached pictures below to show the differences of the handles. So the modern Springs typically have a really tight end which needs a recessed hook on the handle. Unfortunately for older mainspring like American pocket watches this type of handle does not work at all. Much better for American pocket watches is the black handle with protruding pin. So I find when doing American pocket watches the set that I have below covers 90% of them. Also nice with the pin It is for either direction which comes up with pocket watches. So the only way the set would be sufficient is if it came with the other set of handles which are now in no longer available and that would include both left and right and providing money was of no object at all. Even then there probably going to be some examples of mainsprings that the set won't handle that's the other problem of watch repair there is no one perfect for everything. https://shop.bergeon.ch/Catalogue/PDF/7023 A B C.pdf