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The home printer I have cost me just a little over £200, and for me was a dipping the toe in the water job. For what I use it for its fantastic, I use it to make patterns for sand casting small lumps of traction engines. My maximum print size is around 5"x5"x6" inch, for what I do its perfect. If I need a larger pattern I can print in a few sections and super glue them together. It saves me a fortune in pattern makers fee's. For very small watch parts it simply does not have the resolution to do the job. What it is great for is printing small jigs for holding watch parts whilst polishing (found that out the weekend). Or making holders for watch movements. Its single largest advantage is if I want a holder or what ever it may be at 3pm on a Sunday afternoon. I can draw the bit I want then set the printer going while I drink a cup of tea or simply fall asleep (again found that out the weekend). I now also have so many parts trays that I dont know what to do with them. My wife has signs for the stable doors of her horses so she cant forget the horses names. Plus my motorcycles GPS system has a custom sunshade it didnt know it needed. An on going project is a weight driven watch winder, a superb design that eliminates winding my automatic Seikos. All I have to do is wind up my watch winder! Any way happy new year to yo all.

On some early automatic watches the mainspring was two pieces. The spring itself that would look like conventional spring and a shorter spring that was on the outside provided the slipping and some place for the mainspring to attach. Your shorter Slipping spring looks something homemade or basically it just doesn't look right? Fortunately today when you get your mainspring it's one spring and you don't have to deal with that outer peace that's hard to find and a pain to get into the barrel.

Never seen that. One problem is that the crown won't be tested if it leaks.

Frank, can we not be argumentative please. You have your opinion and we observed differently, and the watch was physically in our possession, the sound went away when the pallet cock screws were tightened - can we leave it at that and get back to the OP's issue?

He's correct. To save a little you can shop on the net, Samsung being the technology leader.

That first picture is a bodge up and its not needed. Is that a post that someone has added to the barrel? If so it needs to be removed. The new correct spring will have the slip spring attached. You might need to replace the barrel, check it for wear on the inside.

If the guy formatted the drive then there's nothing on it to retrive.

I don't own a Mac but the concept must be the same as pc, once installed you must give the HD format in the "Disk Utilities" (I don't remember the name of the app) search on the web, there must be tons of tutorials to follow. On a PC the best software for cloning a disk and making it bootable is https://www.easeus.com/ I used it a couple of weeks ago when installing a new SSD to my editing laptop and it was flawless.

Yes, I believe it is the inset screw just below the stem in the photo, but be careful not to unscrew it any farther than necessary because it is simply screwed into a lever on the keywords side and will drop the lever if turned too far. Then you would have to reassemble the keyworks if that happened. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

The pivot can be measured with a micrometer, preferably in millimeters, or a digital caliper. It can be tricky holding onto the staff, at least when it's out of the balance, while measuring, but it's the only way unless you have a set of pivot gauges. These are essentially a bunch of different sized hole jewels that you place the staff into to see where it fits. One must bear in mind that if the best fit, evidenced by a slight tilt, is a size 12, the pivot is probably an 11. Plus there can be wear on the pivot to throw a wrench in the works. You can also use the hole jewel to place on top of the staff pivot and see if it pops through without dropping all the way to the top of the cone. Just a slight bit of the pivot should poke through the hole jewel. Sometimes it hit or miss, and you do the best you can, try it out, and if it doesn't work, order another size. It's the nature of this beast. Good luck.

Wow, that lower pivot looks like it either has metal worn, displaced, or replaced, as if there's a glob of solder on the tip. It doesn't look good. I wonder if it's possible that you could polish the pivot down on a lathe or in a pivot-polishing tool? I'd be considering finding a new staff for it though. Good luck.

I'm curious and interested in the whole 3D printing stuff, also for watch parts and stuff. First of all. Do both metallic and plastic components made with a 3D printer last for a short while or could some of them be used just as the "original" ? Also, do you have to have a good expensive printer to actually make solid quality parts ?

Honestly, I was a bit in doubt . Please read again my previous post. Bet accepted. A miracle would be 4 spokes knocking twice per swing on a screw, giving just one single noise per swing . No theory at all, just looking on the facts and a bit thinking... Thank you for the audio file! It proofs what I could only assume: a ringing hairspring, but no knocking (from 00:34). Frank