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Hi... I'm joining mainly to make a financial donation as payment for knowledge passed along in one of Mark's YouTube videos on how to regulate a common Seiko movement. From grade school years (1960’s) thru the 1990’s I wore wristwatches daily. I’m going full-circle and instead of relying on a cell phone to read the time, I’m trading-in the electronic slave devices and am wearing wristwatches again. My new watches are two Seiko Sport 5’s; one with a 7S26 and the other with a 7S36 movement. They were running out about 20s per day and after a little trial and error (and help from Mark’s video) they’re holding about 7-8 seconds/day. Although my formal background is electrical and computer engineering, my hobbies are related to mechanics and machine-shop work. My lathes and mills each weigh-in around 2000lb (~900kg). On the small side of things, I’ve made countless jigs, fixtures and molds... I don’t think I’ll be making any watch parts on my shop machines. I’m amazed at how the horology technicians make this look so easy to do and especially enjoy seeing the specialized tools used in the horology business. I’m tempted to get some broken movements and try my hand at repairing them. Anyhow, I would like to purchase one or two additional wrist watches in the future. So far, Hamilton is catching my eye. I will read and learn with the goal of making a smarter decision when that time comes. I probably won’t talk too much here but if I do, I promise to be brief. Thanks Ray CJ (near Annapolis, Maryland USA)

Hi all. So as a 40th present from my dad i was given a voucher for a watch. I was torn between the blue sunburst dial or the green bezel. I think i made the right choice. One reason for the choice was the movement. Based on the ETA 2824 with my limited knowledge a really solid movement. See for your self James. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

New certificate purchased and installed. I have reverted the board to secure login. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK - waiting for a new certificate to be issued now. Not sure how long, maybe 24 hours so I have set it to be able to login over standard HTTP for now until its sorted. Will update this thread when it's resolved.

A nice watch with a long name . Automatic , 19 jewels , day / date with the day in Kanji at 6 o'clock , 38mm w/out crown , the standard Orient date change push button , and a scuba dude emblem on the caseback . A friend and acquaintance from the Seiko Citizen Watch Forum and regular seller of hard to get Seikos and Citizens on Ebay , that goes by the username of Seikocitizencollector , emailed me and asked If i could look at his NOS CitizenHi-Sonic for a few repairs . On a normal mechanical watch the repairs are minor , but the Hi-Sonic has the same movement as the Bulova Accutron tuning fork 218 model . The stem would not stay in the watch so he took it to a watchmaker for the repair and when he got it back the stem was still out and now the watch would still hum but not run . He sent the watch to me and I discovered that the setting lever screw was broken . To replace the screw you have to remove the train wheel bridge ,which on a regular mechanical watch isn't a big deal , but on an Accutron you start sweating bullets because you have to deal with the tiny index and pawl jewel fingers , and the VERY delicate 320 tooth index wheel . To make a long story short I asked for a watch in payment . He was awaiting a lot from Japan and he gave me several good choices , and I chose the Orient . When I got it I found the tightest case back in the history of the world . It was tight , had dirt and was rusted to the case . It took me a couple of weeks to finally loosen it . I found a very clean movement inside . It came with an expansion watch band which I changed out with one I had in my stash as well as install a new crystal ........... The Gentleman was also kind enough to include a bonus watch . A Seiko 5 , with a 5126 - 7040 movement and case . The 5126 movement is a little more complicated then the standard Seiko movements in it's autowind mechanism . Gears instead of the normal "Magic Fingers "

Doesn't look like you got the balance in the right position? Make sure that you have the roller jewels inside the pallet fork. Which i don't you have right. Maybe that is why you broke the last pivot.

Also there is no such a street in Paris... just saying...

I wanted to play but had no idea... Anyhow, my guesses were as follow: 1- wall clock with a painting 2- wall clock with a glass window 3- mantle clock with a handle 4- fusee clock with no case 5- greek column style clock 6- fancy golden clock with some person sitting on it 7- funny looking mantle clock

Ultra sonic, but I do like to hand clean aswell, now this is where you tell me I didn't read the small print and the ultra fine fluid cannot be used in an ultra sonic machine now isn't it. must say I don't think it makes a difference as to how it's used, it does the job, I use it in a separate jar by itself in the ultra sonic machine.

I was being driven to despair by one case with acrylic glass - just couldn't get rid of the last bits of dust. Then I found this device on ebay - sold as a camera sensor cleaner (a couple of £ from China). It's basically a bit of solid silicone on a stick. You dab at the bits of dust and it doesn't leave any marks

Thanks to all who responded to my question. I have "chickened" out about trying to replace just the incabloc clip. I'm not sure that I can successfully install the clip without pressing the cap jewel out of the balance (then I would have to get it back in). The incabloc from Cousins will cost me about $23 so i just ordered another FL cal 253 watch from ebay (yes it's from India) for $30 including shipping. Now I have spare parts for the entire movement. I may try to use the spring from the ordered watch and install on the one I'm working on--or just swap the balance between the movements.

Hi Rogart, So today I found out that the rotor bearing for the ETA 2824-2 is in fact exactly the same as required for the ETA 2784! It appears that my initial visual judgement of the size was incorrect. When I measured both with calipers, they both measure 5.55mm in diameter. I have fitted the part to my watch and its working perfectly and the noise has gone away! Thank you so much for your help, its much appreciated.

As a beginner, so far I'm very happy with Starrett's S-555-7 jewelers screwdriver set. I like the collets they employ for securing the tips, which are readily available through MSC Industrial Supply. While they may benefit from a mild dressing here and there, the leverage is good right out of the box and the hexagonal heads prevent them from rolling. They are sized in inches, but I've yet to be let down by that.

I love the US based vendors like ofrei, and esslinger but do shop around. It has been cheaper for me to order from abroad and have it expedited to the USA. Usually it saves me anywhere from $100-200. Which makes me think our supply houses here are quite inflated with pricing. Eternaltools.com has some horotec screwdrivers. And they are a wonderful vendor. https://www.eternaltools.com/watchmakers-screwdrivers/horotec-9-watchmakers-screwdrivers-set Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think you can buy directly from A&F, although I haven't tried it myself. Online shop here - http://shop.afswitzerland.com/catalogs/cat.asp

I have been using A&F screwdrivers for a few years and only recently purchased some Horotec. However the Horotec I shape the tips (see pic) using their sharper which gives a better grip on most screws. So I now have two sets the A&F & Horotec. In my option the A&F are really good screwdrivers they just need dressing now & again.

Hi Anthony, The best place for parts that I've found is Esslinger. There's also a place on the internet called Dash-to (www.dashto.org). There's also C.R. Time and Otto Frei. Hope that helps. Also, I have a few parts for Elgin and Waltham. I'll take a look and see if I have anything you need. Shirley

Great to know. I still believe that with Seiko replacing a barrel complete or mainspring is better, when possible.

My take on this, being an area of personal opinions: Moebius 8200 is for mainspring barrels and has been a long-time standard for manual wind watches. When working with automatic watches you may get better results using Moebius 9020 or Moebius 9141. Moebius 8200 can also be used on stems and winding gears of older manual wind watches. Moebius 8300 is for mainspring barrels and has been a long-time standard for clocks of all sizes. Moebius 8300 is slightly thicker than Moebius 8200 and is used in mainspring barrels of watches when 8200 is deemed too thin. Moebius 8300 can also be used on stems and winding gears of mechanical movements from all sizes from small 5 ligne watch movements to large tower clocks. Moebius 8300 can also be used on winding gears of quartz watches. Moebius 8301 is is a solid grease particularly for winding mechanisms and springs & slip springs. This grease has a wide range of applications. Same as 8300 but with graphite. Also: Moebius 8217 (Glissalube 20) is an anti-sliding grease for the walls of the barrels of automatic watches. Moebius 8201 with Molybdenumdisulphide: Recommended for the Bolova Accutron watch movements, Moebius 8201 is the same as Moebius 8200, however 8201 has some Molybdenumdisulphide added to it. Moebius 8212; for aluminum barrels; strong braking. Moebius 8213; for brass barrels; strong braking. So, the choice is very wide...8200 will do it all if you are not picky! A different way of applying it is normally used -- thicker oil is rubbed, lighter oil is deposited -- in general...nothing is written on stone. Cheers, Bob