Jump to content

AS 1187/94 Servicing


Recommended Posts

35 minutes ago, SockMonkey72 said:

 

Excited to learn new things. Looking for disassembly help on an AS 1187/94 movement. Any assistance would be helpful.

 

 

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Hi,

This might help, which is a download of that movement

https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/search?SearchString=AS+1187

Also, you might find this video helpful

 

Edited by Jon
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi there and welcome, I have no accress to you tube so I havn,t seen the page cousine link provides. In general

Keeping snapshots before disassembly at each stage. 

Device work area to keep flging parts on planet earth.

Check if balance pivots stay in jewels as you gently lift one side of the wheel with tweezer, also how well incabs hold the jewel inside it's housing.

Also, the functioning of  every movement part and the entire power train, release the m/s power before removing the fork... 
I,ll stay tuned with you providing you show the result tic on your wrist.

Regards

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...
On 1/12/2019 at 7:51 PM, SockMonkey72 said:

All sorted, disassembled, cleaned, re-assembled and oiled.

Running as we speak

Thanks

What oils did you end up using?  I've been looking for some guide to follow for what AS specified for these watches but haven't found much other than a similar era 1256 guide that specifies "fine" and "thick" oil, which is not super helpful.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, Dpastl said:

What oils did you end up using?  I've been looking for some guide to follow for what AS specified for these watches but haven't found much other than a similar era 1256 guide that specifies "fine" and "thick" oil, which is not super helpful.

If you are looking for a guide you always can use the Moebius general chart, it is working fine for me regardless of manufacturer.
Down side is you get like me stuck with Moebius oils, but think they are OK.
http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/sites/default/themes/moebius/extras/pdf/tableEN.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/21/2019 at 11:56 AM, HSL said:

If you are looking for a guide you always can use the Moebius general chart, it is working fine for me regardless of manufacturer.
Down side is you get like me stuck with Moebius oils, but think they are OK.
http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/sites/default/themes/moebius/extras/pdf/tableEN.pdf

Hmm, yeah, that's kinda been my debate as I'm getting into this hobby.  I think my Engineering brain is confused that there isn't a standard for this haha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Dpastl said:

Hmm, yeah, that's kinda been my debate as I'm getting into this hobby.  I think my Engineering brain is confused that there isn't a standard for this haha.

There are probably more discussions about this in different forums than I have underwear but I still think I will have a more philosophic and at the same time a pragmatic approach to this subject and keep in mind these are just my delusional thoughts in the matter. 
I think there are plenty of engineers in  this forum who has watch repair/service as a hobby just because of the lack of standards and more on routine, luck and skills.
When being a watchmaker it is a different ballgame since as with anything else there are some guidelines in how to do things in a best practice way. 
Here is some of them

https://www.iso.org/committee/51734/x/catalogue/

When servicing/repairing it's a little bit biased just like in any trade, some prefer tools from a certain manufacturer, some have a favorite oil/grease manufacturer.
How to oil/grease the watch you work with is just like when a technician is servicing your car, the manufacturer has a service schedule he has to follow so you can keep the warranty on your car and so do the movement manufacturers too, here you can find the ETA service documents.

https://secure.eta.ch/CSP/DefaultDesktop.aspx?tabindex=2&tabid=28

Professionals often get certified at Watch manufacturers and by that get access to their service supply chain. It works the same in any trade.

But after a while the warranty is no longer valid since time wears everything down even me. It's then one can begin to service/repair your watch by you self, I guess there are plenty of people in this forum who fixed some easy fault on an old car or even made an oil change or two on it.
When doing that one might not always have access to the correct oil, spare part or service documents ,it's now when one can use a "general chart" as the one from Moebious.
One can see they have compiled the most common functions in a watch and listed the components performing the tasks to achieve the function.
To make this chart more generic one could change the oil/grease from the manufacturers definitions to some definitions like Fine oil, Thick oil, Grease and so on.
This could give you a chance to choose lubrication from a different manufacturer if you have a feeling of the different definitions.

One also have to keep in mind lubrication is just one part of the processes when servicing a watch movement, you just have to adapt an approach what feels good for you and with those words I think I stop since i guess Mark have a limited amount of space on his server and I have to give others a chance to give their view of the world,.

P.S Even though I serviced hundreds of watches I still have attended all of Marks courses and enjoyed them very much it is always good to get a different aspect of the trade from sources like that, they give a little better context to what and why he has a certain approach when servicing the watches in his Youtube videos . 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
On 3/24/2019 at 3:37 AM, Dpastl said:

Hmm, yeah, that's kinda been my debate as I'm getting into this hobby.  I think my Engineering brain is confused that there isn't a standard for this haha.

There can't be a "standard" because lubricants have evolved over decades. It is like if one was to insist using the exact original types when for a car manufactured 90 or even just 40 years ago. They aren't available anymore and for very good reasons, fortunately something better is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
×
×
  • Create New...