Jump to content
Nucejoe

Names of movement parts

Recommended Posts

Wouldn,t a diagram fully showing movement parts/ names, readily avialable on our forum be useful tool of common vocabulary for all. To no avail so far I have searched internet and this forum, most likely a link, etc is available somewhere, but not "readily", or easy to find.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know what you mean, sometimes these things are pretty hard to find. It's probably a bit difficult to do this as each movement has it's own type and it's parts and you won't really find one movement to show all types of parts. Here's a couple of images that should help.

watch_parts_zps8f5aa89b.jpg

c5fa59455ff63bfd81ded24853e495bf--glue-c

Rolex-Movement-Parts.jpg

GearTrain.jpg

movementparts.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

1 hour ago, Nucejoe said:

will these links be avaiable to possible inquirere in future?

if you download the pdf then you will always have access to it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If I had tissot made in fifties I too would have develoed a passion for them. Surely you agree tissot is more brand nowadays than the watçh it used to be.
    • Guys where on the 1000 is the sound pickup; where watch caseback  touches the holder or the metal stop on the left side?   Thanks    Tomq
    • Chrisdt has a point, tissot brand is well known/advertised, expectedly more fake ones out there than genuine. Tissot licenced, know-how etc are decent colones used by tissot as well. You may want to post a question to see if it is genuine, if fake you can possiblg buy another one for the cost of repair. Regards
    • Here is the file rest that I made for a special job.  I was going to make the rollers from O-1 and harden them but decided to go with standard bronze flange bearings.  These are readily replaceable if i ever wear them down. Jim
    • Leinen also supplied those micrometer tailstocks on the Henry Paulson lathes that they made.  The scale is in mm.  To use it, I set the micrometer to zero, insert the required drill in the tailstock (held by drill chuck or collet), slide the drill tip against the surface of the metal to be drilled, slide the stop ring up to the back side of the micrometer and tighten the set screw.  This stops the slide movement at the "zero" thereby setting the surface of the metal to be drilled.  Next I turn the micrometer to the desired depth of the hole to be drilled.  From now on, I can drill as many holes as I want at the desired depth.  Picture is of my Paulson lathe. Jim
×