Jump to content

Crystal replacement


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

 

I have a few watches waiting for replacement crystal where the design isn’t the usual snap-in for which I have used my claw-like tool for removal and insert.

 

These are presumably much more precise as they fit snugly onto an edge in the case and are kept in place by a ring that is pressed on top.

 

A photo is attached.

 

My assumption is that these crystals must be defined by the inner diameter (and possibly the edge thickness) that goes onto the case.

 

Going into ex. Cousins pages on crystals makes my head spin with the huge variety that seems to exist and I thought I might save myself from learning the hard way and ordering the wrong ones by asking you guys...

 

The watches are ordinary Citizens and Seikos, so I guess it shouldn’t be that hard if you have been there, done that a few times...?

 

/bsoderling

IMG_0496.JPG

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seiko you can find the right crystal by using the reference number on the caseback. And then look at jules borel or boley.de. . Maybe even for the citizens you gcan find info there. 

this is just an example.

 http://cgi.julesborel.com/

http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=SEK+CS%237A38-7020&submit=Search

http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=W]Zl]FjcTI

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks rogart63, I will investigate these sites closely.

If I get you right, this means I should look for replacements designed for these specific cases rather than looking among the more generic types from Sternkreuz and others?

The one in the photo actually belongs to a Citizen Newmaster Jet Autodater with its rather special auto-winding design. I tried to Google for the various numbers I see on the back cover but nothing relevant has come up. I even posted a question on a website/forum specializing on Citizen watches but had zero response.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote
6 hours ago, bsoderling said:

Thanks rogart63, I will investigate these sites closely.

If I get you right, this means I should look for replacements designed for these specific cases rather than looking among the more generic types from Sternkreuz and others?

The one in the photo actually belongs to a Citizen Newmaster Jet Autodater with its rather special auto-winding design. I tried to Google for the various numbers I see on the back cover but nothing relevant has come up. I even posted a question on a website/forum specializing on Citizen watches but had zero response.


     the  "the claw like tool"  is a great    invention.   i  only wish for a larger one to put plastic crystols in pocket watches.  vin

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're very lucky, you'll find a GS crystal that is made specifically for that case. I believe that they often have a "PA" prefix. I have been dealing with this exact issue on a case for a ladies Girard Perregaux waterproof. I have bought at least 2 crystals in my attempt to get one to fit, but so far nothing. There's probably a calculation one could make once you know the OD, ID, and edge thickness, but I don't know it. But yes, the frustration is in trying to find the proper ID crystal when everything is sized in OD. Perhaps one just has to have 4-6 sizes to try?

It would be nice if on of our resident engineer math wizzes got us a formula to make it easier? Good luck.

Edited by MrRoundel
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks rogart63, I will investigate these sites closely.

If I get you right, this means I should look for replacements designed for these specific cases rather than looking among the more generic types from Sternkreuz and others?

The one in the photo actually belongs to a Citizen Newmaster Jet Autodater with its rather special auto-winding design. I tried to Google for the various numbers I see on the back cover but nothing relevant has come up. I even posted a question on a website/forum specializing on Citizen watches but had zero response.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The first step usually is to find the correct code for the Seiko / Citizen crystal. You can then consult the Sterny catalogue to see if there is an equivalent from them.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Pip said:


The first step usually is to find the correct code for the Seiko / Citizen crystal. You can then consult the Sterny catalogue to see if there is an equivalent from them.

Seiko is one thing, you can find the item No. in almost all cases, and the original crystal quite often. Much, much more difficult with Citizen.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi jdm,

I’m inclined to say you are correct about Citizen...

It appeared to be the Sternkreutz SX series that would be in direction of my Citizen that is marked 51-204 on the case back.

To begin with, it looked pretty bright as I found both 51-201 & 51-203.

But then obviously nothing for 51-204 :-(

Another complication is that my existing crystal has a quite significant inner height of 3,5 mm which (if really needed, which is hard for me to estimate) reduces the alternatives further.

I took some notes on what could be in the neighborhood of the original. You find it attached.

An even further complication is that my crystal has a magnifier for the date which in practise seem to reduce the alternatives to a very round figure ”0”. I guess I can do without that though.

I find the problem a bit strange as I have seen several photos of this watch on the web with the same 51-204 print on the back and it’s hard to accept that I should be the only one in need of swapping out a bad crystal...

IMG_0505.JPG





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, bsoderling said:

Another complication is that my existing crystal has a quite significant inner height of 3,5 mm which (if really needed, which is hard for me to estimate) reduces the alternatives further.

I call these cup shaped. Rare, but do exists even as generic. I suppose that with the right equipment one could UV glue a ring under a more normal crystal.

Quote

An even further complication is that my crystal has a magnifier for the date which in practise seem to reduce the alternatives to a very round figure ”0”. I guess I can do without that though.

The "cyclop" is not a problem, remove from another watch or buy on Ebay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, I think so...

I checked the Citizen pages crossreferencing to casings but that part only deals with casings as 54-xxxxx and none of mine 51-xxx type are mentioned.

The potential alternatives I found were all under the XS series and I guess my best bet is to try from these.

The generic snap-on type could have been an alternative if one could somehow derive the inner diameter but the edge thickness is nowhere to be found as far as I can see.





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
    • Oh well, if Master @nickelsilver says it's the way to go, then it is the way to go! I stand corrected! 🫡 Are there any other places where you're supposed to remove the epilame from the contact point of rubbing? I don't think so! Thanks for the effort @Neverenoughwatches, much appreciated! 🙂👍
×
×
  • Create New...