Jump to content

Differences between Vostok 24XX parts


Recommended Posts

Differences between Vostok 24XX parts: Introduction

39798690771_a5eb8f7147.jpg

I like the Vostok 24xx movements for several reasons, one of them being that they are so affordable. A mistake made never spells financial disaster. They have been reliable Russian/Soviet union workhorses for decades with (perhaps to some) surprisingly good accuracy. Another reason and the reason for this thread is that the parts of these movements most often are interchangeable, but not always!

Most of the time the parts used in these movements (2409, 2414, 2415, and 2416 being some of the most popular) are interchangeable, and the sellers on eBay often mix and match parts from non-working movements to build a working watch. For example, don’t be surprised if you find a train wheel bridge stamped 2409 (w/o date complication) mounted on a 2414 (w/ date complication) or vice versa.

As far as I know the Vostok 24xx movements have been in production since the early 1970-ties, and there are sometimes slight differences between the same parts between these movements and between generations of these movements. The purpose of this thread is to try to document these differences to facilitate any work made on these movements.

I’m a hobbyist, and what follows are my personal observations. I make mistakes and sometimes draw the wrong conclusions. When and if you spot my errors, please let me know!

I encourage anyone with any experience of the differences between the parts of these Vostok 24XX movements to contribute. Thank you!

My first topic will be about the click. Please see the next post!

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Differences between Vostok 24XX parts: The Click

39798690771_a5eb8f7147.jpg

I’ve seen two types of Vostok 24XX click wheels and they are usually not interchangeable as the click spring needs to be mounted differently on top of the train wheel bridge.

39798691321_4dcd3c7aba.jpg
Above is a picture of the first type of click, and it seems to me to be the most common type of click.

39766804672_177d254680.jpg
As can be seen in the above picture the “type 1” click spring hole is farther away from the ratchet wheel than the click spring hole for the “type 2” click (shown in the next picture).

39798691061_8f4cbd5456.jpg
The above picture shows the other type of click that I’ve seen. As can be seen, the click spring goes in the opposite direction compared to the type 1 click spring. Hence the click spring hole in the bridge has a different location, which is shown next.

39798690961_fcd15446be.jpg
The above is not a very a very good picture but I hope it fulfils its purpose of showing the location of the click spring hole for the “type 2” click.

39798690881_ce7ef7125f.jpg
As can be seen in the above picture, I’ve seen some train wheel bridges having two holes for the click spring depending on whether you have a type 1 or a type 2 click wheel. The location of the type 2 click spring hole in the picture could be somewhat off as the picture has been photoshopped by me to add it.

EDIT: Looking at the type 1 click wheel (a bit closer) it could be that it could be mounted with the click spring in any of the two locations. Haven't tried it though.

Edited by VWatchie
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Differences between Vostok 24XX parts: The Mainspring Barrel

39798690771_a5eb8f7147.jpg

I’ve seen two types of Vostok 24xx mainspring barrels, and although similar they are not compatible. I learned this the hard way.


25209825157_6e4ac8f649_z.jpg
As I had just finished servicing the above “Wostok Made in USSR” (I believe called “Sun Rise”), I tried to wind it fully, but half way through the click slipped and created a "chilling sound" in the train. Fortunately the watch survived (well, it’s Russian so I’m not too surprised ;)). The problem, as I later learned, was that I had fitted the watch with a brand new mainspring barrel.

When investigating the source of the problem I noticed that the ratchet wheel was slightly wiggling in its slot on the barrel bridge. When the mainspring tension became too strong it would make the ratchet wheel misaligned with the click. Investigating further I could, to my surprise, conclude that the mainspring arbor was "too tall", and that was what made the ratchet wheel wiggle.

At this point I compared the brand new barrel with some old barrels, and noticed the following differences.

25209825367_2917d4bf41_z.jpg
The new arbor is 0.2 mm taller than the old arbor.

25209825247_5df66969f9_z.jpg
The new barrel has a slight elevation which the old one lacks. However, the inside and outside diameters of the two barrels appear to be identical.

25209825347_26f699749b_z.jpg
Same with the new barrel lid; it has a slight elevation which the old one lacks. Other than that the dimensions seem to be identical.

As far as I can tell, there’s no difference in design or dimensions between the new and old mainsprings (although I'm not 100 % sure) as long as they are for the same calibre. For example, a mainspring for a 2409 will fit both the new and old barrels, and a mainspring for a 2415 too will fit any of the two types of barrels. However, the mainsprings themselves are differently designed for manual (2409/2414) and automatic movements (2415/2416). For example, at meranom.com (which sells spare parts) they sell barrels for 2409 (manual), 2414 (manual), and 2416 (automatic), but .not for the 2415 (automatic). I would assume the mainspring and barrel for the 2416 is suitable for the 2415 as well. Do note, however, that all of these barrels are of the new type with the taller arbor and the elevation on the barrel and barrel lid.

 

  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

At the end of my previous post about The Click, I wrote the following:

"EDIT: Looking at the type 1 click wheel (a bit closer) it could be that it could be mounted with the click spring in any of the two locations. Haven't tried it though."

I've now tried this and could conclude that the "type 1 click spring hole" must be used with the "type 1 click", and that the "type 2 click spring hole" must be used with the "type 2 click". I guess the barrel bridges manufactured with two click spring holes is a convenience so that it should be possible to use any of the two types of click wheels (depending on what type of click wheel you,  or Vostok, happen to have at hand).

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi to Blackminou29–am a collector/ caretaker—good luck to you following your repair course—with hindsight I wish I’d pursued a career in both watchmaker/ jeweler fields—good luck with whatever career passion you engage.   Thank you Watchweasol for posting the amazing TZIllustratedGlossary! Best wishes, Mike
    • yes I noticed the new site and I miss the old site. It's the unfortunate problem of the Internet here today gone tomorrow sometimes some of the stuff gets backed up and sometimes well it does not then the problem with the early Seiko's were there were not necessarily designed for distribution across the planet and as such there is no customer support for them. So trying to find early stuff like technical information or sometimes even parts list for older Seiko is is problematic. But I did find you a you tube video. A quick look he seems to take a heck of a lot of time to actually get to the service single I did not watch all that but it does look like he did disassemble or started to say there's a tiny bit here  
    • RichardHarris123: Hello and welcome from Leeds, England.  I have family all over Australia, went as £10 poms Thanks Richard. Hope you’re able to visit your family here and that they’ve all done well 🙂 My relatives arrived from England in the 1790s transported on the ‘Second & Third Fleets’—a story of timber sailing ships, of convicts and doing well in this huge Country of Australia. When I visited the UK in the 1980s, I was too young to comprehend the depth and breadth of its history…  Best wishes, Mike William Chapman, my 4th great Grandad’s charges, at age 23 read at the Old Bailey; sentenced to 7 years of transportation to Sydney.
    • The whole process and the progress are closely observed, it's hand-driven and very controlled. I can't see the "danger", unless you are watching the TV while doing it. As you could have read, and in this quote "wheel" is the balance-wheel.
    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...