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Found 3 results

  1. This is my first question on WatchRepairTalk and I’d like to know when to use a crystal lift and when to use a crystal press? I’m in the process of cleaning up and servicing this "Wostok Made in USSR" watch which I believe was manufactured in the beginning of the eighties and that I got off eBay for about $25. As can be seen, the crystal is pretty badly scratched and I want to remove it from the case and then sandpaper it according to the following method. I want to remove it for two reasons. Firstly, I want to avoid scratching the case while working on the crystal, and secondly, I want to be able to reach the edge inside the case the holding the Roman numerals so that I can better inspect it a clean it. As far as I can tell the crystal is an acrylic crystal without a tension ring. For this crystal, I believe a crystal lift (which I don’t have) is the right tool? I do have a crystal press but I don’t dare to use it on this crystal. My guess is that a crystal lift is used for acrylic crystals without a tension ring and that a crystal press is used for acrylic crystals with a tension ring and for crystals in mineral glass and sapphire? Anyway, I’m just guessing here and really don’t know so I’d really appreciate some facts about "Crystal Press vs. Crystal Lift". I’ve also contemplated just trying to remove the metal edge holding the Roman numerals from inside the case, but as far as I can tell having had a close look in my stereomicroscope (40X), the inner rim of the watch case holding the Roman numerals is an integral part of the case, i.e. not removable. I don’t have a camera for my stereomicroscope so here’s a macro shot (iPhone with macro lens). Perhaps it is indeed removable and it’s only an optical illusion? What do you think? It certainly won’t budge one bit when I try to pull it and wiggle it. Best regards
  2. Differences between Vostok 24XX parts: Introduction I like the Vostok 24xx movements for several reasons, one of them being that they are so affordable. A mistake made never spells financial disaster. They have been reliable Russian/Soviet union workhorses for decades with (perhaps to some) surprisingly good accuracy. Another reason and the reason for this thread is that the parts of these movements most often are interchangeable, but not always! Most of the time the parts used in these movements (2409, 2414, 2415, and 2416 being some of the most popular) are interchangeable, and the sellers on eBay often mix and match parts from non-working movements to build a working watch. For example, don’t be surprised if you find a train wheel bridge stamped 2409 (w/o date complication) mounted on a 2414 (w/ date complication) or vice versa. As far as I know the Vostok 24xx movements have been in production since the early 1970-ties, and there are sometimes slight differences between the same parts between these movements and between generations of these movements. The purpose of this thread is to try to document these differences to facilitate any work made on these movements. I’m a hobbyist, and what follows are my personal observations. I make mistakes and sometimes draw the wrong conclusions. When and if you spot my errors, please let me know! I encourage anyone with any experience of the differences between the parts of these Vostok 24XX movements to contribute. Thank you! My first topic will be about the click. Please see the next post!
  3. Hello everybody! I opened yesterday a Wostok 2214 (date, centre second) and I had a surprise when I found a “double” third wheel! I searched the service manual and there it was, part 211 – double third wheel and pinion. Does anybody know, by any chance, why did they use a double wheel? And for the cleaning, I suppose I have to take them apart those two wheels, don’t I? I don't think they rotate sepparetely. Thank you! Bogdan
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