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1st time watch repair - 1963 wind up timex


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Hello I found what I think is a 1963 Timex Windup at the flea market today for $1. I've always wanted to learn more about watches, ever since I was a kid I was drawn to them. I've never tried to work on a watch but I did study Mechanical Engineering at Georgia Tech so I have somewhat of a mechanical backbone. I really have no idea where to start and I know its very easy to destroy these watches when prying into them. So where should I start? Hoping y'all can tell me a little about the watch that I found and hopefully point into a direction to restore it. I would also be interested in books about watch repair and threads on here that could help. Thanks folks!IMG_7504.thumb.JPG.23afe3d25916a2d3f2bc70b97c33e9d3.JPG

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So where should I start?

Start with another watch. Most Timex are basically not serviceable, with riveted parts, etc. Although your does not seem to be bad as my Asian Q&D, the truly disposable mechanical watch (pictures on request).

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Could not agree more, not a good watch to get started on, they were not designed to be dismantled.

It is possible to take them apart (I have done one before, stripping everything down except the parts riveted together), but you will find it difficult to put back together. On the one I worked on (see pic) all wheels were on the same plate (with no separate bridges so all wheels have to be perfectly aligned- not ideal for a novice)

 

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a good movement to start on would be a unitas / eta 6497, or  chinese equivalent to keep cost down

 

for reading, i would suggest Decarle' s Practical watch repairing, i come back to it all the time!

 

Edited by oli
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As others have said, don't waste your time on Timex. If you want to get into watch repairing my advice would be to get hold of a pocket watch as they are much bigger and the way they come apart are more a less the same as a basic wrist watch. Learn how to take it all apart and put it all back together, it doesn't matter if it doesn't work, get to know what the parts are called, this will also give you practice on how to use your screwdrivers, tweezers and an eye glass. Don't bother with fusee pocket watches because they are very different. 

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a good movement to start on would be a unitas / eta 6497, or  chinese equivalent to keep cost down
Or a Seiko 7S26. It's quite easy, parts are abundant and cheap, and most watches based on it are nice and wearable.
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If you still want to go ahead with this Timex, here's what you can try.

1. remove the stem. If i'm not mistaken the stem is held in by a metal gate which needs to be raised before the stem can come out. You can see it better looking at it edgewise.

2. Remove the hands and dial. The dial usually has tabs which are bent to hold it in place. If you're not the first in there the dial may be glued into place as the tabs usually break.

3. Loosen the screw on the balance pivot a quarter turn.

4. Dunk the whole thing in lighter fluid. If you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner so much better.

5. Dry the watch off.The watch will usually start running once it dries off a bit. May need a shake to start it off.

6. You will see tiny holes on both side of the movement which are actually the pivots of the wheels, you can lube this with some watch oil. Timex don't really need fancy oils.

7. Eyeball the balance pivots, you need to get some oil in the pivots... once done, tighten the screw on the balance pivot so that it moves smoothly with minimal endshake.

8. Replace dial and hands and stem. IIRC the stem 'gate has to be raised to get the stem back in, unlike other watches where its usually just push in.

9. Clean the case a bit and fit everything back together.

Most of the Timex I've come across would usually run with the above ... the ones where water has entered with ensuing rust damaged are not possible to repair.

For those who look down on Timex, they still have a sentimental value. Most of the older watches I get are usually brought in by guys who were given the watches when they were young. Even if the movement is irreparable I would usually source an organ donor to get the watch working. The look on their face when they hold the watch to their ear is priceless.

Anilv

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If your livelihood depends on the watch repairs, you undertake no one in their right mind would undertake repairing Timex watches. That is why back in the 70’s and 80’s you would send them back to Timex.

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Hi! 

You've got a model 22 movement there, and #anilv's instructions are a good start. I have a lot of TImex service documentation that I am sharing here -

Timex Documents

You should be able to find a lot relevant to your watch.

Edited by dadistic
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The Timex is a good watch to start with if you want to understand the fundamentals of how a mechanical watch works but I will caution that putting that watch movement back together will be a chore.  I consider Timex watches the "Everest" of watch repair; I haven't yet successfully repaired one.

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  • 9 months later...

Wow ..I am glad I found this.. was just about to tear one of these apart . It was my uncles and it still works although it is about 2 minutes slow. It has sentimental value and I would not want to Lying around as a pile of junk. I think I'll just keep it as it is. I already polished the Crystal and the case and It looks pretty good...

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    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
    • Maybe I'm over simplifying this and I'm a little late to the discussion, but just by my looking at oil when I use it on a treated cap jewel  the oil stays in one nice bubble, but when I don't it spreads out to the edges of the jewel. I'm not sure (but could well be wrong) but the analogy of a waxed car and rain is accurate in this case, the wax is very hydrophobic and repels the water, however, the process epilame works by is a different physical process based upon cohesion/adhesion (oleophilic) not repulsion (oleophobic)  at least as far as I have read/observed. If one were to use a oleophobic substance equivalent to wax (hydrophobic) then one would need to create a donut shape to fence in the oil, however if one used such a strategy with a epilame which is oleophilic then the oil would sit on the ring of the donut and not in the 'donut hole', exactly where you don't want it. Even if the oil is smeared then the oleophilic epilame should pull it back to the center (see diagram below). Reference For interest the chemical in epilame is 2-(PERFLUOROHEXYL) ETHYL METHACRYLATE, CAS NO: 2144-53-8
    • Looks lint the teeth on the hour wheel aren't meshing with the teeth on the calendar intermediate wheel, maybe the hour wheel is sitting on top of this instead of meshing?        
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