Jump to content

Can I use D5 in place of 9501


Tmuir

Recommended Posts

I received another box of goodies from Cousins this week which included my oils and grease.

I already had 8200 for the main spring, but purchased D5, 9010 and 9415, but my budget could not stretch to include 9501 at the moment. For now I will only be working on simple manual wind movements, so bearing this in mind can I use D5 on the keyless work instead of 9501 until my budget can stretch to get myself some 9501?

 

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks. I will get 9501  probably in the new year when I place my next order from Cousins I just dont want to wait until them before I can start practising servicing watches.

 

I can always strip them down again at a later date and clean and re-oil them again I just want to get started now

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, matabog said:

I heard 9504 is better then 9501 (for the cannon pinion)

For the keyless work I believe hp1300 is better then d5 (better marketed, anyway)

Not just marketing, 9104 (HP1300) is a synthetic oil and that makes a difference in lasting. D5 is still on many service sheets simply because these predates the introduction of more modern formulations, and will never be updated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9501 and 9504 are very similar greases and Moebius state that 9504 has 9501 as its base.

9504 differs from 9501 in that 9504 has a heavier base oil (synthetic), has a more stable soap structure (soap is the thickener which holds the oil) and has added EP (extreme pressure) and anti-wear additives.  On this basis it would perform better in high load areas, but in most cases the cheaper 9501 would suffice.

I would always go for synthetic oils and greases if you can afford them as they are more stable, will retain properties much longer, and generally have higher performance.  Most standard 'synthetic' oils are basically 'synthesised' from mineral crude oil and so are fully compatible and will not be detrimental to seals etc.  Some synthetics (eg 9415) have a different structure.  Care is needed when plastic parts are involved (the oil may not be wetable enough) but generally these are not a real problem if quality watch oils are used.

Edited by canthus
typos
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, canthus said:

9501 and 9504 are very similar greases and Moebius state that 9504 has 9501 as its base.

9504 differs from 9501 in that 9504 has a heavier base oil (synthetic), has a more stable soap structure (soap is the thickener which holds the oil) and has added EP (extreme pressure) and anti-wear additives.  On this basis it would perform better in high load areas, but in most cases the cheaper 9501 would suffice.

I would always go for synthetic oils and greases if you can afford them as they are more stable, will retain properties much longer, and generally have higher performance.  Most standard 'synthetic' oils are basically 'synthesised' from mineral crude oil and so are fully compatible and will not be detrimental to seals etc.  Some synthetics (eg 9415) have a different structure.  Care is needed when plastic parts are involved (the oil may not be wetable enough) but generally these are not a real problem if quality watch oils are used.

Thanks @canthus. I stopped short of suggesting the use of 9501, but I agree that it can be used, and is probably a better choice than D5.

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, noirrac1j said:

Is this the same as Lubeta V105? Not really for the keyless works.

J

No, nothing like Lubeta, it is not a liquid it's a grease. I originally used it (as recommended at the time by ETA) for chronograph parts that come in contact with each other.

I have been using it for some time on sliding pinions, cannon pinions etc and not had one watch come back or fail.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Molykote Dx is also a good grease but getting a bit long in the teeth now.  9504 has similar base oil viscosity but Dx is mineral oil so will not give the same life/performance as 9504 with synthetic oil.  The soap base is basic  lithium unlike 9504's complex soap which again will give better stability for longer (the oil does the lube the soap just holds the oil in place).  Dx has a solid lubricant like molybdenum and 9504 has Boron which more stable than moly.  9504 also has EP and antiwear additives.

Dx does have the advantage of being white in colour whereas 9504 is light blue.  This may be important for visible movements. Dx is also lower cost!

Edited by canthus
added text
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • No John, we don't want Mark to change anything, we are just scared of losing a brilliant forum and losing contact with each other.  As pointed out, this forum is full of knowledge and I for one,  consider the regulars friends. I would hate to lose contact with you and the others.   PS, this forum is really important to me. 
    • one little minor problem with your chemistry experiment here which is what exactly is epilam? In other words is it an exact substance with the chemical you specify or is it a term? For instance originally it was steric acid either dissolved in some sort of solvent or it was applied by vaporizing it. Then now it's all kinds of different things the watch companies all have different ideas there's a whole bunch of patents. So is not always an exact substance.   let me snip out a image from the patent that I attached up above. Notice I highlighted something it seems to disagree with your evaluation.  
    • I guess You had to try, as it would be hard to sleep without that try, but, I know the result before the experiment... As I told before, the friction will be so big that the wheel will not turn. The pivots have to be thin and polished - the bigger the number of the wheel (2th, 3gh, 4th...), the thinner the pivot. What You are trying to do is possible, but forming the new thin pivot must be done on lathe. Thus the wheel will get shorter, but can have new pivot without the drilling for normal standard repivoting. Then piece of brass can be soldered under the pivot hole in the bridge and new hole drilled in it to form the new bearing.  Well, this way is not the recommended one, not quite correct, but it is possible to do for the excersize... When I say lathe, lathe may be verry simple, someting like turns, but made of what one has in reach of his hands. If You want to try, I will try to guide
    • yes by all means let's gather up our weapons tar feathers find the nearest tree in case Mark is not agreeable to our terms on our demands and storm his Castle. I don't quite understand what you're trying to do here? In other words you want Mark to somehow guarantee that the group will live on forever no matter what? You want Mark to somehow change his business model of what is trying to do or should we just take the group away from him? oh and is quite possible that Mark never realized that his discussion group would take on a life of its own. That the members of the group would like to continue on forever.  
    • I'm not sentimental, I see it this way.  I inherit something I  don't like, I could sell it, buy something I do like and remember the person with the new item.  For example, I  inherit a watch ( I haven't), I don't like it, I  buy a watch I do like, every time I look at the watch, I think of the person. 
×
×
  • Create New...