Jump to content
  • 0

How to measure this glass


Hi guys,

I have this lovely old Seiko, but the glass is broke. Round glasses, obviously are done by diameter. However, the sizes come with dimensions of, for example  MBr 139x139.1 Sternkreuz. How do you figure out what size it is, and what you need?


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

11 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

Check boley for a part number and you will probably be able to find a generic on borel or ofrei. If that fails, contact them directly. They have custom and fitting crystal service (borel mainly: Rosemary (?) their glass person does that, she is there twice a week: Tue and Thurs (?) ).

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

The rim looks like it is separate from the case. I tried to lift it away by using a razor to open a gap but it is on tight.  You can also see what looks like a white nylon spacer in the case. 

I don't think that the rim is removable.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

The white rim should be removable. Didn't notice that

Take the seal out, then measure the inside where the glass sits. It looks quite deep so measure that too.

Once you have the case width, find the seal size on cousins gasket finder. This will also give you the glass width. Then just order the relevant glass thickness and width. Order one a bit bigger as sometimes the glass comes out a bit small.

Judging by the depth it'll be an L gasket. I always order a new one.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Answer this question...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By JayK
      Hello All.
      I'm a fellow watch enthusiast from the North-East of England. I hope everyone is keeping well.
      I recently bought myself a cheap watch repair kit, dusted off the old watch storage box and started to giving my watches the attention they required, it's been going quite well so far but do need some guidance with the correct steps of putting the workings and the case back on for my Accurist GMT Grand Complication, hopefully I will do a separate post on this with pics.
      Anyway hope everyone is having a decent Friday night. 
    • By HectorLooi
      I just received my Seiko 7006A that I bought off ebay. The watch appeared quite nice in the photos, but alas it wasn't in real life.
      The rotor had a "clunking" sound, as describe by the seller. Should be fixable....
      When I opened it up, I couldn't get the movement out from the back. Was it a front loader? The crystal didn't look like it would come off with a crystal lift. After careful examination and prodding around. I managed to pry the movement ring off. Someone had glued the crystal on with so much glue that it seeped under the movement ring.
      When the movement came out, my heart sank. Someone had pried the dial off with so much force that it wrinkled the dial! 
      He even broke 1 dial foot and bent the other.
      But the last straw was when I discovered the mainspring barrel had been damaged!
      I've searched cousins and ebay for a replacement and even a donor movement to no avail.
      Does anyone know if the barrels from other Seiko models will fit a 7006A? Like maybe a 7S26?

    • By oldboy
      I am considering selling leather watch straps, but I have a question before I blindly go ahead and produce a bunch of them.
      I am wondering if anybody who has worked in the industry for a while can tell me what the most common sizes are of strap pins or lug widths?
      I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
    • By x83
      I was given a 1973 seiko lord matic (5600-9001) recently and I am very fond of it. The acrylic is in pretty good condition and the case isn't too scared up. There are only 3 problems with the watch. First, the case is a little bit dirty between the lugs. Second it gains about 15 seconds a day. Thirdly, the original bracelet is too small, so I tried to replace it and found that one of the spring bars is stuck. I don't really know what to do with the watch so I came here to get some advice. Should I take it to a local  jeweler, send it to the seiko service center (probably a bad idea), or try to work on it myself? If there is anyone on the site that is able to work on the watch I would consider that as well.
      Thanks in advice for any advice.0
    • By Trevelyan
      Hi,  the bracelet on my SARB033 is a D385-3C,  it's currently too small for me to wear. I have two spare links, but no pins for them. On removing a pin from the bracelet I found it to be nothing like a cotter pin, nor did it appear to be a "pin and tube".   It was more like a pin with a thicker end that was knurled . 
      I'm looking for resources to purchase a few of these pins,  also links and pins for a JDM  Seiko (a Grey Ghost titanium kinetic) 
      Can anyone point me in the right direction? 
  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi Gary looks like a reaction between the base metal and the dial paint (oxydisation) probanly due to moisture . Other than stripping the dial I don't think there is a lot can be done unfortunatley.
    • Thank you for answering . Please excuse my ignorance on this subject  Do mean it’s best to use the stem with the Plastic crown that came with the movement? And please could you let me know what the ‘set’ position is ? regards
    • Hi Gary at all times unless testing the movement leave the battery out, whilst manipulating the stem into position .  It will be best to use the stem provided with the module. some of the modules require you to put the stem into set position before removing as this keeps the clutch assembly and associated gears in place to enable an easy fit of the stem. Failure to do so causes the clutch to drop requiring re alignment before the new stem can be fitted. To do that you need to remove the calendar work to gain access to the keyless work.  I have attached the tech sheet which covers this movement for you.        good luck ETA 955.102, 955.112, 955.122, 955.132, 955.402, 955.412, 955.422, 955.432.pdf
    • I did end up seeing the difference between the top and bottom cap-jewels on the Incabloc. That was nice to learn. Thanks, JohnR725! Still, even after making sure the end-stones were in their proper places, the watch was making an odd audible tick intermittently. And it would stop. I took a second to look at the balance assembly and saw that the regulator arm was displaced a bit off of the top of the balance cock. I hadn't removed it for cleaning, so it wasn't me. No matter though. I situated it properly on balance cock and the watch is now running very strongly. I'll see how long it does so. It is no longer making the odd audible tick so I'm pretty confident that all will be well. Thanks all ! Premature victory dance. I should have known better. Little bugger stopped again. Rats!    
    • Wow, thanks everyone, there's a whole lot of awesome information happening here!  This went a whole lot deeper that I thought it would.  I think a 3 jaw is still the most fitting for what I'm looking to do.  jdrichard, great video!  What you have there is exactly what I would be looking for and after looking into it those pieces are way more affordable than what I have been finding on ebay. 
  • Create New...