clock bearings

[matabog]

Hello!

So I cleaned the clock parts in naphta and IPA. I put the wheels in a drill machine ('cause I don't have a lathe) and I polished the pivots (they are so clean and shiny now).

How do I polish the bearings (the holes in the plates)?

I'm thinking at puting some polish compound on a toothpick in the drill machine  and presenting the bearings to it.

Bogdan

[vinn3]

you only need to clean the pivots and use a piece of peg wood to clean the bushings.   vinn

[matabog]

 It would be so nice to be so, but there is hardened gunk in there... green stuff - best place to see it is on the mainspring barrel bottom and top holes, it didn't dissapear with naphta or IPA.

[jdm]

4 minutes ago, matabog said:

 It would be so nice to be so, but there is hardened gunk in there... green stuff - best place to see it is on the mainspring barrel bottom and top holes, it didn't dissapear with naphta or IPA.

Try nitro thinner, it's aggressive to any dirt but does nothing to metal.

[matabog]

I tried with this https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butanone.

 

There are stil some solids left that I believe will only go with mechanical action.

Bogdan

 

[oldhippy]

You need a clock cleaning fluid. This is the stuff  Horolene clock concentrate. As you have cleaned and polished the pivots make sure there not too loose in their holes. If there is any wear you might need to rebush them.

 

[StuartBaker104]

+1 for Horolene, an old toothbrush, rubber gloves and an open window!

If Horolene is not available in Romania, then no doubt there is a local equivalent - it is ammonia based and brings the plates up nice and shiny and is used for almost all parts altgough I never use it for springs. My recollection also is that it's not recommended for some more modern clocks with laquered plates.

Remember to ensure parts are fully submerged and wash off then dry thoroughly to prevent streaks and tide marks.

S

[vinn3]

be ware of chemicals.  that M.E.K.  is bad stuff.!  if acetone wont take the crud off,  you have other problems like  corrosion AND may enlarge the bushing.  well.  good luck in ant event.  vinn

[oldhippy]

2 hours ago, StuartBaker104 said:

+1 for Horolene, an old toothbrush, rubber gloves and an open window!

If Horolene is not available in Romania, then no doubt there is a local equivalent - it is ammonia based and brings the plates up nice and shiny and is used for almost all parts altgough I never use it for springs. My recollection also is that it's not recommended for some more modern clocks with laquered plates.

Remember to ensure parts are fully submerged and wash off then dry thoroughly to prevent streaks and tide marks.

S

I would hope any chemicals recommended on this forum and used. The person that intends to use them would read the instructions before use.

[matabog]

When washing things in naphta and IPA, I use a gas mask. I highly recommend it!

[clockboy]

After polishing the pivots & inspection for wear etc I put the plates in a ultra sonic cleaner. After this I then check the holes (bearings) for cleanliness using a loupe. The final check is to check for wear making sure there is not to much shake. If there is then I re-bush the offending ones & check again. 

I do have a watchmakers lathe & generally make my own bushes & also use it for the polishing of the pivots. 

[vinn3]

if you have a lathe, you can buy "bushing stock" or use "oilite".  its one way to make sure the hole is in the centre.

[clockboy]

I do have in stock bushes including some Bergeon bushes although the later I am not a fan of because I like to re-bush with no trace of it being done (if possible).  Centering is important & also inserting the bush in the correct position is also important. The bearing holes normally wear in a pear shape so this has to be taken into account when reaming the hole for the new bush.

[oldhippy]

I think oilite bushes are coated and are really bronze which for invisible bushing in a brass plate  will not do. I like clockboy always made my own and made sure they were invisible. I even had very old brass to match the old brass colour. If used correctly the reamer will find the center of the hole.  Bergeon bushes I would only use in the sort of smiths strike and chimes, cheap mantle clocks.

[vinn3]

right you are,  clockboy !   I have a couple mvt.'s that are "bushed badly"    its  not worth the time to "re bush"  EVEN IFF"  the bushing holes holes are "in the proper place"   i just install a battery mvt. and give them away for Christmass.  vinn

[vinn3]

oilite is "oil impregnated   into bronze".  shood be  quite good,  try it

[oldhippy]

1 hour ago, vinn3 said:

oilite is "oil impregnated   into bronze".  shood be  quite good,  try it

I have been retired for many years and no longer undertake any repairs of any kind. How do you know that the impregnated oil can mix with the correct clock oil and still operate under the conditions that it is meant for.  

[jdm]

Interesting reading
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oilite

To be honest, in my ingorance I suspect it has little to do with clock bearings except maybe tower clocks.

[StuartBaker104]

I think we should all go back to using lignum vitae

 

Although I exect that the oilite bushes for clocks are not impregnated with anything, as this is an option.

[oldhippy]

Bronze bushes can be found in high quality movements such as Longcase regulators and marine chronometers. Bronze is a lot harder then brass so it can withstand wear, in these types of movements you also find the steel is also of a very high quality so with the combination of the two you have something that can withstand wear.    

[vinn3]

wood bushings,  i had  forgot about that  lignum stuff.   propeler shaft bearings and even lathe head stock bushings.    in the  automotive area,  oilite had  replaced some roller bearings.  it could be good in old clocks since the oil  would not  harden.   vinn

[oldhippy]

You might find this an interesting read. However I do not agree with his comments on those re bushing tools. We all have our opinions, that's what  makes discussions so interesting.

http://www.abbeyclock.com/Broach5.html