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By HectorLooi · Posted
Do you use them? I have several pairs but never used them for watch repair work. The problem is the spring tension is already too high and may cause a "ping" when you release to grip the object. A conventional tweezer gives better tactile feedback. I use the fine grindstone on my bench grinder, then polish with a nylon fibre wheel to get a satin finish. I grind off about an 1 inch zone to distribute the stress to prevent metal fatigue from the repeated flexing. Take a close look at our College tweezers. Most of them have a thinner section just after the joint to give them flex. -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
So initially i used a big bench grinder to take the bulk of material away. This had to be done very carefully and kept moving and continually water cooled. Its all too easy to remove too much or overheat the steel ruining a good pair of tweezers. I tested frequently until i was happy with the tension, then with a small 1/2 " drum sander with a 180 grit roll and finishing by hand with reducing grades of wet and dry up to i think it was 1500. As an aside not only is tension reduced but also tip spacing, so that needs to be readjusted. Nev has some information on a pair that he made from scratch, the link to his post is a bit further back on this thread. -
The main thing you need to think about is not only size but clearance to the hands. Have you looked at other suppliers or the internet.
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Does anyone ever use the reverse action tweezers? Where you squeeze to open and release to close. They seem like they'd be better as they won't apply excessive force to the screws and risk firing them around the room like miniature projectiles, however I've NEVER seen anyone use them during watch repair
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