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Posted (edited)

Well lots of spares/parts watches, one of which has a working Junghans 600 movement in it which will furnish a replacement circuit block for the Matthey Doret mention a few posts above. The only complete watch is this jump minute hand Timex Q quartz one, which may or may not be running (sort of Schrödinger's watch;)).....

 

Timex Q quartz2.jpg

Edited by JohnD
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Posted

Just won an auction for this sexy beast, another Art Deco watch. It's a Gotham, probably from the mid 30's but I still have yet to identify the movement. I thought at first glance it was an FHF movement, but I'm beginning to think it's an in-house movement. If anyone knows, please let me know. Love the 2 tone case with enamel inlay and the swinging "Drivers" lugs. Only thing it seems to need is a seconds hand. Flawless otherwise.

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Posted
2 hours ago, JohnD said:

Well lots of spares/parts watches, one of which has a working Junghans 600 movement in it which will furnish a replacement circuit block for the Matthey Doret mention a few posts above. The only complete watch is this jump minute hand Timex Q quartz one, which may or may not be running (sort of Schrödinger's watch;)).....

 

Timex Q quartz2.jpg

Those jump minute quartz's are weird but awesome! I have 2 identical ones. The ticks are quite loud and alarming in a quiet room.

Posted

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An early  Dundee Timex M22 - probably late fifties, maybe up to around 1964. The plating looks somewhat worn, but  the hairspring looks concentric. That rubber gasket is probably the texture of graphite by now.

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Posted
16 hours ago, AndyHull said:

That is a really tidy looking watch. Very nice, especially when you consider its age. Produced some time around 1914 if my quick interwebz search of the serial number is correct.

Thanks, this could be my full time wearing watch....need to get myself a nerd vest:)

Posted (edited)

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Alwyn Day Date.

Listings says automatic.

Gut feeling says maybe not. 
Picture says seller was probably stoned, or maybe they need to speak to their optician. :startle:

Price says what the heck, its worth a gamble.

Edited by AndyHull
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Posted

Something from Germany not far from the Swiss border on its way today.

KIENZLE_Katalog_Geschichte2-o1o4rh0k2p5d

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Slightly scruffy, and in need of some TLC, this has one of Kienzle's pin lever movements in it, maybe this one.

The missing lume and slight deformation on the hour hand suggests this has been taken a part and worked on at some stage.
Exactly which pin lever is in it is not clear from the sellers pictures, so I'll have to wait and see.

The hammer fell at the 404 mark, so it just squeezed into the club.

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Posted

Mechanism.thumb.jpg.e26e20ecfbb223ece539

The Timex Biq Q minute ticker arrived.

Face-l1600.thumb.jpg.1b0b12428f72d2d1154

It would work, if I had the small part that the pusher presses on that links to the spring contacts on the circuit board.

I suspect I can 3d print something, or file one from a small piece of aluminium, but this process would be much easier if I knew what the original looked like, and what material it was made from. If it was plastic, I can 3d print it, but if it was metal, and needs to be conductive, then I will have to do some filing.

Does anybody have an example they can show me pictures of?

Posted
1 hour ago, AndyHull said:

Does anybody have an example they can show me pictures of?

@AndyHull I will try and get some pics of mine tomorrow

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Posted
5 minutes ago, Jimg1969 said:

Got this coming. 4cbed1af7c4cf5ce0a8f35da6f91e6a7.jpg5960909aaca4afc85e446fc4c3100298.jpg

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Interesting... What movement does it have?

Posted

Been finding a few deals on the poshmark app. Just got this pulsar along with two other accutrons for 15.00 threw a nato strap on and a new battery and was in business. a5a8dfe04ae38f9fa4396c78b4225150.jpg

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Posted

This was only $20 and was new. Had a nice ss bracelet with solid end links but someone had removed many links and I had to replace it with this strap. 141d9b30bccc98c97cd3f32e55a0c932.jpg&key=2fb4b83f1a944e88ab6d200819809ae09ad04f21274cf5686e67595808370e1c

 

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Posted
15 hours ago, Marc said:

I will try and get some pics of mine tomorrow

@AndyHull pics as promised.

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There is a brass clip that snaps onto the plastic spacer to almost bridge between the movement and the pusher. Pushing the pusher completes the bridge, presumably shorting the contact out to the case.

When I opened mine up there was a second brass clip just rattling around loose which I am struggling to find an appropriate location for. It looks as though it may be to provide a better contact between the case and the pusher outer, or it may be that pusher presses it against the other brass clip, but I can't see how it fits at all.

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Posted

It seems I accidentally won this pocket watch. i had my eye on this open balance pocket watch with a mother of pearl case back. I set up a bid snipe on my app for it and then a couple days later I removed it from my watch list because I changed my mind. However, I forgot about the snipe and a day later I got an alert that I had won. hopefully there is nothing broken on the inside. It's being sold as non running, fingers crossed it just needs a cleaning.The mother of pearl case back has a large chunk missing near the crown, not sure what I can do to repair that. I'll keep everyone in the loop as I go through it. It was cheap enough that if I get it running, I may repair the original with epoxy putty, make a mold of it and the cast a new one with a mother of pearl epoxy. May be a fun project.

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    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • I agree with hector it's probably the regulator curve, it almost always is on these movements. So i work on these movements a lot and iv'e managed to fairly consistently get them running at like 50 degrees more amplitude than that with deltas in the 3 range and on the wrist deviations of sub 1 second a day. They ALWAYS require work to get there though. The main thing is shaping the regulator curve and this is really finnicky and definitely something you practice on a movement you don't care about when you're new (I'm still new) but if the hairspring is flat and the coils are evenly spaced and the regulator curve is properly shaped and it's pretty wild how accurate these movements can get.  But, it does sound like your regulator curve maybe needs a bit of reshaping. You can easily mess up the watch learning to do this so warning if you don't want to live with your current results but I"m not an expert, it's just speculation but there's a pretty easy way to check.  This is a good video showing how to see if your terminal curve is properly shaped. Just make sure the regulator pins are open when you test this.   He takes off the balance wheel to shape it. I do it with the movement disassembled but the balance on the mainplate. I use a homemade tool from a sharpened dental pic to do the adjustments (Tiny tiny TINY adjustments) and i use the regulator pins themselves to sorta brace the spring against to bend it very tiny amounts and just keep checking it by moving the regulator arm down it till it stops moving the hairspring. Taking off the balance wheel over and over again is a good way to slip and destroy your hairspring and will make the process way slower. I try to avoid removing the balance wheel from the cock it on these movements due to how difficult it is to get the hairspring stud back into the balance cock. It's super easy to slip and twist your spring then you got way worse problems.  Since these are mass manufactured and unadjusted the regulator curve is NEVER perfect but once you learn how to reshape them it's pretty easy to do and you can get REALLY low deltas with really low positional error and pretty remarkable accuracy.  Definitely with it powered down and the balance on the movement with both balance jewels in place look across the spring to see if it's perfectly flat, then check the regulator curve how he does it in the video. I would bet money even if it's not your main issue the regulator curve is not ideal also. 
    • Thanks. Damn, first breakage. This picture of the movement is from the sale listing.  
    • Hello all, New member here, hoping  to gain knowledge about something that has been of interest for years.  Cheers!
    • So the stem is snapped and will need replacing but luckily there's enough left in the crown to unscrew without a problem. Will need to see photos of the movement to identify it.
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