Jump to content

Copying A Keyless Works Cover

mwilkes

By mwilkes
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

mwilkes WRT Addict

mwilkes

Posted
Posted

I need to make a keyless work cover/setting lever detent for an ancient Rolex. I have the original from another watch. What's the best way to copy it? I've considered gluing the original to some steel stock and cutting around it, but I risk damaging the original if I do that....suggestions on a postcard please!

(I know I could buy one, but that wouldn't be character-building)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JimInOz WRT Addict

JimInOz

Posted
Posted

I would mark up the surface of the blank with engineer's blue, clamp the two together and mark around the old one with a fine scriber.

S

 

Ditto, but if you don't have Prussian Blue (either marking solution or engineer's blue) you can use a permanent felt pen or Xylelne marker.

Make sure your scriber or needle is nice and sharp to get a good outline.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JimInOz WRT Addict

JimInOz

Posted
Posted

PS: marking or layout blue is almost the same as engineer's blue but for the carrier solution. The marker has a fast drying solution while the engineer uses an oil based carrier and will not dry and will transfer to mating surfaces.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
StuartBaker104 Distinguished Member

StuartBaker104

Posted
Posted

I'm with you on this Stuart, but I think you meant to say marking blue not engineers blue, they're different things. Engineers blue is for checking out high and low spots on surfaces.

Yes Geo... Absolutely right, lazily non-specific of me - I was taught to make marking blue by mixing engineer's blue with meths.

I've tried using xylene markers and they don't have quite the same effect imho, but almost as good

S

Link to comment
Share on other sites
anilv Distinguished Member

anilv

Posted
Posted

Whatever you use to mark the outline, make the holes and the index (the bumps that give the click) first.

Only then work on the outline. Otherwise you may find you have perfectly shaped piece but unusable due to the holes not being in the right places.

HTH

Anil

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

Anyone know where to source metal for keyless work and pivots/staffs. I'm in Australia so any online store would help.

Thank you!

Here you are.

Pivot steel.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11-Assorted-Tempered-Blue-Steel-Wire-Pivots-clock-repair-pivot-pinions-staffs-/191432908456?hash=item2c924a5ea8:g:D-gAAOSwg3FUfJie

Gauge plate. They supply it in various thicknesses.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1mm-Ground-Flat-Stock-01-Tool-Steel-Gauge-Plate-Various-Widths-lengths-/281897555767?var=&hash=item41a2675737:m:mz4lMQGl3D1rzeunqJ9gsKw

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mwilkes WRT Addict

mwilkes

Posted
  • Author
Posted

@anil yep - I ended up drilling holes first, then pinning the piece I needed to copy on to the blank using wire of the correct thickness for the holes. Every other way was prone to slippage - even superglue!

Gluing a paper template wasn't a go-er - the pieces were too small

Link to comment
Share on other sites
anilv Distinguished Member

anilv

Posted
Posted (edited)

For a source of flat steel, I've seen hacksaw blades being used to good effect...used ones are usually plentiful around a shop.

 

I've been tempted to try this out .. the added thickness of a sawblade is an asset as you can get the shape correct and thin it down as the final step. Better than trying to shape a thin plate.

 

Anil

Edited by anilv
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

I've often wondered if old clock main springs could be a suitable source of material, suitably annealed for working and then hardened and tempered before finishing.

This works Marc, make sure it's an old fashioned blue one though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
stroppy WRT Addict

stroppy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Wow!  How did you the steel that fine?

 

As regards the engineering blue.  I remember in metalcraft class (back in the stone age when I was a kid) the teacher used good old carbon paper or a stamp ink pad to mark parts for copying.

Edited by stroppy
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Neverenoughwatches
      What to look out for when buying a used watch cleaning machine?

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Ah ok. A new machine is double the price.  I dont know much about cleaning machines ( mine is a very simple diy affair, very easy to fix or replace cheaply and very adjustable in speed, it has a motor that spins a thing which is basically all cleaning machines are and a warm fan or hairdryer does the rest, British logic and ingenuity at it's best ) but if either restoration is good and within the estimated cost then i think you would have a better machine than the pearl for less than half the price. 
    • Pap3r
      What to look out for when buying a used watch cleaning machine?

      By Pap3r · Posted

      The est. total cost £220 of buying and restoring either the red vintage Brenray or the National Electric. The new price of a Pearl Cleaner is £460.
    • nickelsilver
      The watch

      By nickelsilver · Posted

      This will probably come out the top side, you have to remove the bezel holding the glass first. This is a cylinder escapement watch, and given the rust evident on the screws and such, probably not in the best condition. It would be a good idea to find another watch to work on to learn the ropes a bit before going further with this one. The missing winding crown already is an issue- can't tell from the photo but it looks as though the winding stem may be missing, or broken off (or rusted to bits); you almost certainly would have to make or have made a stem for this.
    • RichardHarris123
      The watch

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      I think the movement comes out from the front, so the bezel needs to be removed. I am sorry to say but i think this will be very difficult for a beginner. if you can disassemble the movement, you may find the rust has done extensive damage. I think the part you are asking if it looks right is a dial screw. I can't tell from the photos but is the hairspring in tact?
    • Deebee2024
      The watch

      By Deebee2024 · Posted

      Hi This is the watch I was talking about in my introduction post. It was my Great Granny's watch and I'm going to clean the watch and then find a new winder to replace the missing one. My problem is I cannot get the movement out. I managed to remove the back but I'm now stuck.  How do I remove the movement ? There is a broken screw where the head came off when I tried to unscrew it. The winder is missing and there is a lot of rust. I have some Isopropyl to clean it. I have a watch a little repair kit.  What should I use to  remove the rust? I can see where to remove the strap so I should be able to do that to clean it. 
×
×
  • Create New...