Jump to content

Replacing Incabloc Spring That Broke Off


Recommended Posts

I believe you need a replacement incablok spring (at least this is normal procedure as a replacement for the ETA 2824 et al, I'm not familiar with the very finicky-to-work-on -- according to others -- ETA 2892-a2). If you were on this side of world, I would say ofrei stocks them...but his prices for shipping outside USA are too high for a US$2 part. It is a pain sometimes to make those springs to catch on the end they are supposed to and finally close correctly (lyre type) the others (novodiac/kif) will get in with no problem...except when they want to jump and join the space junk orbiting the Earth.

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It usually easier to remove the holder then to wiggle the incabloc spring  in and brake it again . Just pay attention to how far it's pressed in . And in what direction . Sometimes the date ring slides very close to the jewel . And there for has a cutout. 

Edited by rogart63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try cousinsUK for the spring...no need to pay for a whole watch...better to have 3 of each size just in case...IMHO.

 

Would this do for me? I actually have no idea which incablock to  get...

 

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/inca-assortment?code=I38848

 

Or better: which of these?

 

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/inca-shock-springs?code=incabloc%20springs

Edited by GeorgeClarkson
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry George,

 

I couldn't find a good reference for the right part, the service data doesn't list if I think, only as a full assembly if I'm not mistaken...if money is no object I would get the full set of springs from your links. That way I'll know which one to use for every watch I'll ever service...hopefully some one more knowledgeable on this movement can advise both of us.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bob, I was thinking the same, but I found a watchmaker here on Germany who can replace the spring if I send the main plate to him. I do not have a staking tool, so even if I buy the spring I won't be able to install it. It would cost me some 50€ plus the cost of the spring, so we are There with the price. But I would be sure that the job is done correctly...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent find GuiBer,

 

Thank you! One more piece of information for my modest watch "info" folder. I usually wing it trying different sizes. This takes the guess work out of the equation!

 

@George: George, maybe I'm not understanding well but for the spring I believe you don't need a staking tool. They just "attach" hopefully by inserting on end with your tweezers. Then, the two lyre ends are moved into position with the same tweezers. The first move is tricky but no staking. In my mind, and with a lot of imagination, it is the same principle as those battery lids we see in remote controls for tv: you have to attach one end so the other end can latch...and it comes with -- usually -- to plastic guides (or ears If you would).

 

Well, in this case, the back of the lyre has this particular shape that will fit the frame where it belongs. Usually you kind of push it at a steep angle and once it clicks in place it will act like a hinge, allowing you to close it over the cap jewel and eventually securing both ends of the lyre in their respective "grooves". I can't explain it right, words are not enough but hopefully you get the idea.

 

Or maybe I'm confused and it is different to other ETA's....

 

Maybe you can try first and if it doesn't work you can send it to your friend the watchmaker...but where is the fun if you don't try first! :)

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Guiber: yes I had found that link too, but don't really understand how to read it...

@Bob: I tried exactly what you said, but without breaking the spring completely apart there is no way I can remove it. And the problem is when I would try to put the new one: even twisting it will not come in. Since the incabloc is embedded in the mainplate there is no other way, I believe, that the spring will come on...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

170.03 is the incabloc spring . 

I supose that as the jewell in question is in the main plate, that corresponds to the bottom ("dessous" in french) of the movement, and so the spring should be the 173.03.

 

(Perhaps someone more experienced than me in this subject can confirm it ?) 

 

George, in the doubt you can always order the two types, as they are not so expensive!

Edited by GuiBer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a howto from the NAWCC forum. You do need a staking tool.

 

To replace incabloc springs--push the setting out of the cock or plate. Place spring in channel, (self explanatory when you get this far)
put jewel in place and lock down the spring.
reinsert the setting. Easier than it sounds.
You will need a jeweling tool or at least a good staking tool to do this properly.

 

Under  'Watch parts branded' Cousins lists the springs for ETA 2892-A2 at £2.95 per pack of 5. You need to be registered (no hassle).

Edited by cdjswiss
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

GuiBer I already decided to send the mainplate to the watchmaker... I don't have a staking tool and I do not want to try and damage further the movement.

I think you make the right decision as you don't have the proper tool to do the job!

 

So it's also good you have decided to get a staking/jewelling tool !

 

I mentioned the two because there are some works with jewels that I suppose cannot be made with a stacking tool.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a howto from the NAWCC forum. You do need a staking tool

To replace incabloc springs--push the setting out of the cock or plate. Place spring in channel, (self explanatory when you get this far)

put jewel in place and lock down the spring.

reinsert the setting. Easier than it sounds.

You will need a jeweling tool or at least a good staking tool to do this properly.

Under 'Watch parts branded' Cousins lists the springs for ETA 2892-A2 at £2.95 per pack of 5. You need to be registered (no hassle).

I had found that thread too, hence my decision to send it to a watchmaker

Edited by GeorgeClarkson
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi George,

 

I'm actually partial to theK & D 18R Inverto Deluxe Staking & Jeweling Tool Set , something like this:

 

post-253-0-78268800-1448255954.jpg

 

They are a little more money but I believe they are well worth the extra expense. Of course, the Favorite would be another candidate but they are still more expensive and rare to find.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The wheels turned fine. I set the escape wheel in the epoxy when it had just ‘skinned’ and wasn’t set, made sure it spun with the 4th wheel, and let it set.    After cleaning I assembled the barrel and wheel train - all fine. Moving the barrel the escape wheel spun freely. I put a bit of 9010 in my epoxy setting.    It went wrong when I put the pallet fork in. It wasn’t seated right (no jewels) and the escape wheel  knocked a pallet jewel out. I have no idea how to reset a pallet jewel - epoxy again? I’m not spending any more time on this one - it’s missing hands and the front half of the case anyway, and I have more watches ready to put on the bench. 
    • No John, we don't want Mark to change anything, we are just scared of losing a brilliant forum and losing contact with each other.  As pointed out, this forum is full of knowledge and I for one,  consider the regulars friends. I would hate to lose contact with you and the others.   PS, this forum is really important to me. 
    • one little minor problem with your chemistry experiment here which is what exactly is epilam? In other words is it an exact substance with the chemical you specify or is it a term? For instance originally it was steric acid either dissolved in some sort of solvent or it was applied by vaporizing it. Then now it's all kinds of different things the watch companies all have different ideas there's a whole bunch of patents. So is not always an exact substance.   let me snip out a image from the patent that I attached up above. Notice I highlighted something it seems to disagree with your evaluation.  
    • I guess You had to try, as it would be hard to sleep without that try, but, I know the result before the experiment... As I told before, the friction will be so big that the wheel will not turn. The pivots have to be thin and polished - the bigger the number of the wheel (2th, 3gh, 4th...), the thinner the pivot. What You are trying to do is possible, but forming the new thin pivot must be done on lathe. Thus the wheel will get shorter, but can have new pivot without the drilling for normal standard repivoting. Then piece of brass can be soldered under the pivot hole in the bridge and new hole drilled in it to form the new bearing.  Well, this way is not the recommended one, not quite correct, but it is possible to do for the excersize... When I say lathe, lathe may be verry simple, someting like turns, but made of what one has in reach of his hands. If You want to try, I will try to guide
    • yes by all means let's gather up our weapons tar feathers find the nearest tree in case Mark is not agreeable to our terms on our demands and storm his Castle. I don't quite understand what you're trying to do here? In other words you want Mark to somehow guarantee that the group will live on forever no matter what? You want Mark to somehow change his business model of what is trying to do or should we just take the group away from him? oh and is quite possible that Mark never realized that his discussion group would take on a life of its own. That the members of the group would like to continue on forever.  
×
×
  • Create New...