Jump to content

What on Earth !? Share your weird "repair" findings ....


Recommended Posts

From time to time, one encounters strange "repairs" or "short-cuts";

Yesterday I opened a show case-back and noticed some white "plastic" in and around the movement 🤔

If the O-ring is broken or missing, why not using Teflon-tape ? 🤗 😁

IMG_3287.thumb.jpeg.513c18810aba344c5cdd6c949d2bf5a5.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Endeavor said:

From time to time, one encounters strange "repairs" or "short-cuts";

Yesterday I opened a show case-back and noticed some white "plastic" in and around the movement 🤔

If the O-ring is broken or missing, why not using Teflon-tape ? 🤗 😁

 

Great stuff, PTFE tape (Plumbers Tape Fixes Everything) !

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Endeavor said:

From time to time, one encounters strange "repairs" or "short-cuts";

Yesterday I opened a show case-back and noticed some white "plastic" in and around the movement 🤔

If the O-ring is broken or missing, why not using Teflon-tape ? 🤗 😁

IMG_3287.thumb.jpeg.513c18810aba344c5cdd6c949d2bf5a5.jpeg

Problem with ptfe, generally in plumbing but it could be with any application of its use i guess, its supposed to seal the threads, which it does when there is no shoulder on a coupling.  But if a rubber ring such as a gasket is used or some kind of brass or fibre washer as with plumbing fittings then the tape can stop the joint pulling up tight. Its often wound on the wrong way and pulls away from the threads upon tightening. Shouldn't be used on the threads of olive compression fittings. Ha plumbing lesson 

  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, Kalanag said:

Is this thread meant to be continued by others who found weird repair work?

Yes, please !

It may learn everybody some more about the "tricks" of the trade 😉

 

Here another one which annoys me since I haven't found an answer on how to fix it 🤨

I bought this gold-plated hunter pocket watch with a nice looking movement;

IMG_3288.thumb.jpeg.d000943c90bf159990acbe233a849ab2.jpeg

Only to find out, during my service, that the ratchet wheel screw wasn't only of the wrong size, but it had left-handed thread and to make it stick, kitchen aluminum foil was used.

The thread inside the arbor is totally ruined ..... 😡

IMG_3289.thumb.jpeg.693587b7b9bd7897a12c7c4c1bd653ad.jpeg

IMG_3289copy.thumb.jpeg.571b231db42b06fb565c1c00be3459c9.jpeg

No idea how to avoid this type of "scam".

Edited by Endeavor
  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

47 minutes ago, rossjackson01 said:

What I can't understand with some of these 'botch merchants'' and I've met a few on my learning curve, is why they don't' use the correct  items. O rings are cheap enough

 

The problem is that there are plenty of people who for some reason are into repair without having any intent of doing a good job but instead just make a quick buck. They don't have the patience to measure, place the order, and wait for the delivery.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, VWatchie said:

some reason are into repair without having any intent of doing a good job but instead just make a quick buck.

Could also be your well intentioned neighbor, who in his garden shed has a "go-at-it" and has no clue where to order or what to do 🫣

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, VWatchie said:

The problem is that there are plenty of people who for some reason are into repair without having any intent of doing a good job but instead just make a quick

Plus plenty of people just don't understand the difference between quality work and a bodge job.  It doesn't matter how many good watch repair videos they watch or if someone tried to train them, they just can't see why it matters. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, RichardHarris123 said:

Plus plenty of people just don't understand the difference between quality work and a bodge job.  It doesn't matter how many good watch repair videos they watch or if someone tried to train them, they just can't see why it matters. 

I made a few mistakes in my beginning. But I would never had offered the damaged watches to anyone. In fact I am now actively beginning the restoration of my own 'botched' work'. I have learned about the pride that servicing and repairing a watch can give.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Recently I serviced a Chronoswiss Kairos with an ETA 2892-2. This watch had a professional service 15 years ago.

During disassembly I noticed that the screws holding the automatic works were loose 😳 

After cleaning and reassembling the movement I found that the automatic works only functioned with loose screws. Searching for the rootcause I found that the „intermediate reduction wheel“ in the automatic works was mounted in a flipped position. Relying on my foto documentation I had mounted it as wrong as it was before.

I successfully flipped the wheel back instead of loosening the screws as my predecessor did 😉

Zwischenablage03.thumb.jpeg.13f0c7fa35c3fcfd2991ce132bdae46f.jpeg

Chronoswiss.thumb.jpeg.dc02b329d0e459def2e1c62b56619f9a.jpeg

Edited by Kalanag
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does it show it correctly in the service sheet?

That's why I always take lots of pics. The first time I serviced my Breitling Aerospace I just couldn't get the bridge to sit on the gear train. I was following the service sheet. I double checked the pics to make sure the gears were the right way up - still couldn't fit it. Only when I looked at my disassembly pics did I notice that the service sheet is wrong, wheel 260 is shown the wrong way up.

image.png.bb72bfcdead2a4a40bd3d4df9cec4aef.png

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • Sad 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
    • Hi not found one either yet,  close relative is the 436 and 4361 according to ranff.db.   It gives quire a lot of detail but not as good as the old site.      RANFF.DB.
    • No problem to replace the setting with the staking set. Press the new setting from inside, use flat face punch with hole. The punch must be wider than the setting, the hole to be as not to press at the stone, but only on the bush. Press by hand until the setting gets flush with the plate surface, so the punch must rest on it.
    • Yes, the arbor usually makes about 3 to 3.5 turns. But usually spring takes 2/3 to 3/4 of the free space in barrel, not 1/2, so take it for the calcullations. This way the change in torque is smaller. I have a picture for You, this one is little older, but no mater
    • I overhauled a ladies Rolex and noticed erratic performance so I stripped in down again and did fault finding. This is what I saw. The lower jewel (the one in the plate) is cracked and the hole is too big. Before discovering this, I stripped down and re-cleaned the main-plate (and parts) by hand with a fine natural fiber brush. I somehow missed the fault the first time and cannot understand how it was still running. Perhaps re-cleaning it dislodged some pieces of the jewel widening the hole? I don't know. Now I need to replace the jewel but don't have a Seitz tool. The Rolex part is 2130-0913 and the top and bottom are the same. The part comes complete in brass setting with KIF elastor spring and cap jewel. Note: I have never replaced a jewel. I do have a good vintage stacking set that I've used quite a bit.  Can I replace using a stacking set? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  
×
×
  • Create New...