Jump to content

Broke my new balance staff during staking..


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I finely got a staking set and have disassembled the balance from a 1909 16s Hampden pocket watch.

During the riveting step of my new balance staf, I broke the staf. Not just the pivot, but the whole shaft!

I was very careful to fit the shaft into the plate hole of the staking tool, made sure everything was flat and believe I chose the correct stakes to rivet the staf in place.

 I'm guessing I just hit the staking tool too hard, I didn't even get to using the flat stake as the staf broke after the 3rd hit of the hammer.

Looking at the riveted area, it's clear that its a good, but maybe over staked riveting job.

I did need to use a small drill to push out the broken shaft from the staking plate, once out I examined the staking plate and noted quite a bit of debris in the holes. (I've cleaned the staking plate sense)

Am I missing something?  Is really that easy to break a shaf during this process?

 

 

P8140085.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I assume this is a vintage staking set? Based on the fact that the pivot is also broken, I'm going to guess that there was some debris inside your stake that put enough lateral force on the staff to snap it off.

I know my set had bits of metal stuck in all the holes of the plate, so I wouldn't be surprised if there was debris in your stakes.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, BillM said:

Is really that easy to break a shaf during this process?

apparently in your case it was and as somebody else noted what happened to the pivot?

Before we even get to the staking set use as a reminder when you get a replacement staff you want to measure it and verify this exact same size as the original staff you took house. Typically with vintage or all American pocket watches there can be variations. Typically whatever catalog you're looking at may not list all the variations. So you want to make sure that you have the right size staff otherwise other unpleasant things can occur

I really hate to use my imagination because that is a very bizarre broken staff. It would've really been nice to have pictures of what you're trying to do

12 hours ago, ManSkirtBrew said:

I assume this is a vintage staking set? Based on the fact that the pivot is also broken, I'm going to guess that there was some debris inside your stake that put enough lateral force on the staff to snap it off.

I know my set had bits of metal stuck in all the holes of the plate, so I wouldn't be surprised if there was debris in your stakes.

great questions. If it's a newly acquired vintage staking set or basically anything other than a brand-new staking set you do want to check everything out. Especially the base plate the staking set often times things get lodged in their.

The other thing you want to be careful doing is making sure that the base and the punch itself exactly line up I'm wondering if maybe you are slightly out of alignment? this is why before you lock the lower played in place you have them punch that comes down that goes into the whole typically a very pointy punch and then with that pressed in place you can tighten the base plate otherwise there's always the chance is going to move and then it moved any whacked it that might be the reason fractured there's the other problem of how well was the original balance staff heat treated.

13 hours ago, BillM said:

I'm guessing I just hit the staking tool too hard, I didn't even get to using the flat stake as the staf broke after the 3rd hit of the hammer.

Looking at the riveted area, it's clear that its a good, but maybe over staked riveting job.

the normal procedure would be more than one punch. Usually need a couple of punches to spread the rivet out. Then you can follow up with the flat price to make sure of these nice and flat.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The fact you had to use something to push out the broken piece is important. When choosing a hole in the plate, the staff should be a free fit. Not tight, not sloppy, definitely some freedom. Then as John mentions, alignment is very important. Some alignment punches are bent. Then, your round and flat face punches should have- some freedom. If they are a super close fit, but free, go the next size up.

 

All this freedom adds up to things staying flat during the rivetting process. My take on your situation is the staff was a snug fit in the plate, and you used a close fitting punch, and things literally went sideways when the hammering started.

Edited by nickelsilver
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all for the input, much appreciated.

Yes the staking set is vintage, and I had not taken apart and cleaned the staking base before using it.  When I did take it apart there was a ton of crap in all the holes.  
 

I did use the alignment stake to be sure everything was lined up and I even checked the alignment stake for straightness.  
 

The hole I chose for the staff was not tight, but was not very loose either but the stake I chose was a very close fit.  

I measured the old and new staff and found a .0005” difference maximum and figured that was close enough, besides, My old lathe is not accurate enough to correct this.

I have ordered two more new staffs and will proceed with much more caution this next time around.   
 

I did note that the roller table fits loosely and will need the hole closed up a bit to work.  So that’s another issue I’ll need to address. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you hit it with a lump hammer? You should always make sure the stakes are clean, in other words any thing that has a hole in your staking set make sure its clean. Providing you centered it before riveting it should have been fine providing you used the corset punch, always make sure you use the best fitting punch. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Did you hit it with a lump hammer? You should always make sure the stakes are clean, in other words any thing that has a hole in your staking set make sure its clean. Providing you centered it before riveting it should have been fine providing you used the corset punch, always make sure you use the best fitting punch. 

What is a “lump hammer”?  Never heard that term before.  
I don’t know what a corset punch is either. 
I used a round nosed punch that fit very close over the shaft of the staff. 

Edited by BillM
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/15/2023 at 12:28 PM, nickelsilver said:

your round and flat face punches should have- some freedom

BalanceStaffParts2.png.83cb0a90013d1d70c618c2dfa4484b52.png

Just to make certain I understand. So do you mean that when the punch is resting on the balance shoulder there should be a bit of freedom between the hole in the punch and the collet seat?

EDIT: Now, that didn't come out right 🤣. What I meant was:

Just to make certain I understand. So do you mean that when the punch is resting on the collet seat there should be a bit of freedom between the hole in the punch and the collet shoulder?

(@HSL drew this picture for me when I was learning)

Edited by VWatchie
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

I have a picture that I think will help. This is from a handout to Hamilton watch company had on doing a balance staff. so for both the punch and the base that the staff is in there is clearance.

image.png.7e8d5d57d3d698e84dd04eacedb40982.png

Awesome illustration, thank you. 
 

To be honest, this is exactly what I thought I had in my set up, but it’s pretty clear now that the crap I had not cleared out of the staking base plate holes was a major contributor to my failure.  
 

 

7 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

as you like the illustrations how about the entire technical document?

Hamilton technical data number 129 replacement of broken balance staffs.pdf 1.35 MB · 3 downloads

Wow, Thank you!   

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, VWatchie said:

BalanceStaffParts2.png.83cb0a90013d1d70c618c2dfa4484b52.png

Just to make certain I understand. So do you mean that when the punch is resting on the balance shoulder there should be a bit of freedom between the hole in the punch and the collet seat?

(@HSL drew this picture for me when I was learning)

Yes. But, not too much! Haha. Seriously, there should be freedom with the punch around the collet shoulder from that illustration. The collet seat is effectively the rivet, so there must be contact there.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

The collet seat is effectively the rivet, so there must be contact there.

The illustration John showed illustrated it perfectly. Anyway, thanks for clarifying! 👍

I'll edit my post now or I'll never stop thinking about it. 🤣

Edited by VWatchie
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a link to the post where I got the picture of the balance staff naming its various sections. That post, with its additional illustrations, was very useful to me at the time, and even though it doesn't add much to this particular discussion I thought it might be appreciated nevertheless. If you look closely, @HSL (where are you these days?) has indeed added a bit of space between the hole in the punch and the collet shoulder, but that was not discussed or even noticed by me at the time. So, another piece of important information gained! 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes i did eventually realise that the oil will act as a barrier, I'm sure the discussion will continue. Ive had two oleophobic coffees ( added coconut ) and in the meantime i have this just delivered to take my mind off epilame for the time being. My favourite type of dial, its a beautiful looking watch traditional English made and it runs,  the ticktock is phenomenal,  i can hear it across my living room .  You wont believe how much it was. Thats interesting about synthetic oils , i thought the same, going from a 2 year service to 5 years is a big drop in income for service folk.  I expect some did well when they embraced the use of synthetic,  probably drawing in more customers than those that didn't use the new fangled substances , i bet fairly short lived though. The more frequent service makes more sense to me, not for just the service but for the regular check up inspections that might pick up impending faults. As far as epilame goes, wouldn't it be great to be able to fumigate the complete movement in a sealed jar of heated stearic acid, 🤔 now theres a thought 😅.
    • Imm going to close the discussion by attaching the photo of my super-titanium after several vicissitudes finally working. Purchased as not working I replaced the battery and for a stroke of luck I found its semi-new solar panel which, having verified its operation, seems to recharge the accumulator perfectly. I had taken this watch almost by bet, with 40 euros I brought it back to life. The initial half idea was to resell it to finance another purchase, but.. it's definitely a nice item. It would need to check the impermeability but it's a pleasure to see it on the wrist 😃
    • In fact the secret is to go gently and find the way without forcing, and the movement enters without problems
    • Yea a have given it a full service this movement is chinese 2813 whats the lift angle for this movement does anyone knows  and how  do a remove the default  of 52 degrees on my timegrapher?   Hi you said my lift angle is default how do a remove this from my timegrapher?
    • Sure! Some very accomplished repairers never use epilame! I have often wondered if it is worth the trouble. Not using epilame will shorten the service intervals though, but that could be better perhaps both for the owner and the repairer!? Speaking of oiling, I just read this: After WWII in the 1950s the first Synthetic Oils came on the market. Most watchmakers did not rush to use these oils since they were bad for business now that the watch serviced with Synthetic oil would not come back to him for service for another 5-7 years he would lose a lot of income. ~Ofrei.com   Anyway, I wouldn't be surprised if it would be more correct to think of epilame as a binder rather than a repellant. Until convinced otherwise that's how I will think of epilame.
×
×
  • Create New...