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So who ended up here at WatchRepairTalk because? ........


So who ended up here at WatchRepairTalk because? ........  

15 members have voted

  1. 1. So who ended up here at WatchRepairTalk because? ........ and this can be for watches or clocks.

    • "I'm sorry sir/ma'am, but this can't be repaired."
      3
    • "That price is far too expensive."
      2
    • I've been thinking about this for ages, but have only just decided to look into it.
      1
    • No repairer close.
      0
    • Can't find a repairer that I trust. (or, If you want something done right, do it yourself)
      1
    • Just want to do it for myself.
      0
    • Had nothing else to do during all of these lockdowns.
      0
    • Had some spare money and thought "I wonder how I can chew this up quickly?"
      0
    • Saw some videos on YouTube and thought to myself, "Self, I can do that."
      2
    • The engineering of it all just amazes me.
      5
    • "Your watch is not worth repairing."
      1


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I thought about this when I was welcoming a new member.

I was properly annoyed when told by a Seiko repairer the my watch couldn't be repaired. As a people, I believe many just go and buy a new one (be that a bed, table, whatever). That might be great for a company, but that doesn't make a customer feel better.

Sure, sometimes the repair may not be financially viable, other times it is what the person wants.

Me? I'm a 1. Initially I was going to do watches. I am now leaning toward clocks. 

Edited by Michael1962
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Is there a way to click on these?  I'm not sure my phone is up to it.

I would have to click multiple reasons anyway.  I got started just from a love for both tinkering and timepieces. I didn't have a watchmaker near me willing to touch my old Elgin, but one even told me the repair would likely cost more than the watch was worth (it would not). And being fascinated and amazed by the mechanisms themselves, it was probably a foregone conclusion that I would become involved in watch repair. 

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I'm finding this amusing and frustrating at the same time.

I am a mod on another forum (same software) so should be quite familiar with how this works. I am pretty sure that I set it all up correctly? Maybe I didn't? Believe it or not, this is the first one that I have ever done.

As far as I know you can only vote once. When you go to the topic, you should have radio buttons beside the options that I have listed, click the one you want and then click 'Submit Vote' button.

I can't edit it anymore, so I am hoping a moderator can help me out. ? 

 

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It looks like you click open poll then you have the choice to vote, so I tried it voted and then closed the poll. My vote didn't show up under what I voted for. 

I think it's screw up somehow. I suggest you message Mark.  

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@oldhippy I just had a look at something and I am not sure if this might have something to do with it?

Are you able to edit the topic and on the Poll tab when you are in Edit mode, could you check the box that is called ' Multiple Choice Question'?

Let's see what that does.

Edited by Michael1962
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In my case, it's because fixing one was was into hundreds of dollars and even a simple service run over 250$ in my case with a sizable number of mechanical watches. Told myself it's better to get tools and learn to service myself to save in the long run. It's also a nice relaxing hobby.

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I was able to vote successfully. I kinda need to vote twice though (assuming I understand #3 correctly). I got really into mechanical watches in college when I discovered they existed and was fascinated by the engineering. I found a WOSTEP certified watchmaker at the time, and he basically talked me out of it. "It takes literally millions of dollars worth of tools and equipment." Fast forward a decade or so, and I've got a baby who for reasons unknown isn't a fan of eating. I found myself holding a bottle a good 8-12 hours each and every day (my wife got the other half), and needed something to occupy my brain. I stumbled onto Mark's videos, and consumed everything I could (with minimal hands off the baby/bottle) on the subject, and eventually found my way to his forum once I had free hands. Shortly after that, I dumped a bunch of cash into some basic tooling, and was hooked!

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    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
    • Oh well, if Master @nickelsilver says it's the way to go, then it is the way to go! I stand corrected! 🫡 Are there any other places where you're supposed to remove the epilame from the contact point of rubbing? I don't think so! Thanks for the effort @Neverenoughwatches, much appreciated! 🙂👍
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