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According to these guys "Coating watch parts with a thin, even monolayer of epilame provides an effective oleophobic barrier that halts oil spread in its tracks." Which is exactly the same process that causes water beading on a waxed car. An oleophilic treatment would actually cause the oil to spread out to as thin a layer as possible as every oil molecule would try and come into contact with the oleophilic surface. The reason an oleophobic surface prevents spreading is because the oil behaves in such a way as to have as little contact with the treated surface as possible. -
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I never marked any of my repairs. I kept a book with all details. These days use Excel or Access and build your own. As Richard said repairs have their own code, some include the repair number some use their cost code.
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Great post @Waggy. It confirms what I was suspecting. If epilame were working like a repellant it would be pretty useless as we want the oil to stay where we place it. It is also consistent with my observations. Oil placed at a fixed point on a treated surface is difficult to move from that point. That is the exact opposite of what had happened on a waxed surface. So again, I feel sceptical about rubbing off the epilame treatment before the oil is applied to the pallet jewel impulse surface. -
I have always used oil as advised by my master. I expect clock grease has improved a lot over time. One thing I found with old grease on mainsprings is it could congeal causing poor timing because the spring couldn't unwind or wind up properly. 400 day movements run on very little oil the less the better.
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