Jump to content

My new victim


Ammar

Recommended Posts

Hello everybody

I got my self this ladies watch to play with, I hate ladies watches but I liked this one, it's barely running I think it just needs a good clean the proplem is this is the first time I come across this type of balance jewel assembly and I'm not sure if I should take it apart clean it and oil it I've seen it on youtube but I've never done it.

You think I should give it a try and risk ruining the movement?

 

20201013_105235.jpg

20201013_105247.jpg

20201013_105829.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Ammar  nothing ventured nothing gained, Granted they are more fiddly than gents watches but the same rules apply. Document what you do (photos) at each stage and take your time and most of all be carefull,  They are quite a bit smaller therefore finer engineered and by such easily broken, but having done it and got a worker the experience gained . is well worth the effort    The last one I did was ladies ball watch the size of a marble with a broken balance took a day or two but worth the effort.      wish you good luck.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Ammar, I preume you are talking about the jewel assembly, no shock protection just end stones. Its easy if you go about it the right way.

1- Unscrew stud screw, push on stud a little to make sure its loose enough to come out, all while the cock is still on mainplate.

2- Take balalnce& cock assembly out, flip it over and lay on hard flat surface with the balance on top, turn the boot to release the hairspring, You can flip the cock over again so balance would be dangling down, hold the assembly about a CM or less above bench, push the stud out, balance falls out, one CM drop would not damage the hairspring,specially if dropped on tissue paper.

There are two little screws holding the end stone plate, break easy, I soak the cock assembly in coca-cold over two nights, coke will penertate the screw thread so screws can be remove with incredible ease. Dress a driver blade for perfect fit into slit of the two screws.

This method is prefered since you can check the jewel and end stone as well as good access to peg. 

Good luck.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Done loads of very small ladies watches.  Basically endorse comments above.  Only advice I can give is take great care when handling the balance as the hairsprings are extremely delicate and very easily damaged (a super sensitive hand is required to correct !!).

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The spring needs to come off to get sorted out.

Insert a safety razor into the seam between the collet and collet seat, work you way around the staff to open a gap. The sides of the razor are thicker than the blade, drive the side into the gap to widen it more, by then you should be able to get a thin screw driver blade into the gap or just wiggle the razor to remove the hairspring, you should have some sort of area, a tray or something to drop the hairspring on, so you can find it right off, as you would have a macroni hairspring if you swept the floor to find it.?

Next clean the hairspring in lighter fluid, then spread a white sheet of paper on top of a flat surface, drop the coil on it, you can see the coil and circles in contrast with the white, sort the coil, I know easier said than done.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

The spring needs to come off to get sorted out.

Insert a safety razor into the seam between the collet and collet seat, work you way around the staff to open a gap. The sides of the razor are thicker than the blade, drive the side into the gap to widen it more, by then you should be able to get a thin screw driver blade into the gap or just wiggle the razor to remove the hairspring, you should have some sort of area, a tray or something to drop the hairspring on, so you can find it right off, as you would have a macroni hairspring if you swept the floor to find it.?

Next clean the hairspring in lighter fluid, then spread a white sheet of paper on top of a flat surface, drop the coil on it, you can see the coil and circles in contrast with the white, sort the coil, I know easier said than done.

 

Do I have a good chance in you opinion? I've never done this before so I'm scared to do it, I have a couple of mangled spare hairsprings I think I'm gonna practice on them before I try to fix this one 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi Ammar  managed to dig up a little information on the dogma make The following likn will explain a little more   https://chronotimepieces.com/dogma-one-of-the-many-that-didnt-quite-made-it/

Thank you, you always help with links anf files and information I'm gonna call you The Info Guru ?.

Have you worked on a Dogma before this movement looks and feels high quality at least compared to the crappy movements I usually work on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi From the information I have looked at Dogma used quite a few eubauches movements across the range, so from that I gather they are typical swiss movements and probably worth doing if we can identify the maker. The mark an cal would most likley be either under the balance or on the front plate under the dial.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Ammar said:

Do I have a good chance in you opinion? I've never done this before so I'm scared to do it, I have a couple of mangled spare hairsprings I think I'm gonna practice on them before I try to fix this one 

Ofcourse you do, oh, I would unpin the hairspring from the stud while stud is in its holder arm, just get the stud out of your hair. 

Sometimes I run a pin through the collet hole and pin the coil onto the paper or cardboard, keeps the coil from moving.

Never met anyone with 100% success record, you might mess this one, so what.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Ammar said:

Do I have a good chance in you opinion? I've never done this before so I'm scared to do it, I have a couple of mangled spare hairsprings I think I'm gonna practice on them before I try to fix this one 

I, also, think you have a good chance.  I have gotten lucky with sorting out springs before.  You just learn not to be rushed; move carefully and calmly; it will take as long as it takes.  Practicing on junked springs is a good idea to get a feel for how it will go.

And like Nucejoe said, you may never reach 100% success, but you may get pretty good.  So it's always worth a try.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have read some suggestions that it can cause wear , particularly on the fork horns of a fully treated pallet fork. I've had half a kilo of steriac acid powder on a shelf for almost a year now, might have a little play today with a heater and a jar.  I think its because it gets into their cleaning solutions Mike. Theirs or anyone else's that services the watch next time, or if they need to strip back and rebuild. Could preclean but thats all time for a pro.
    • As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
    • I think attaching a nut to the lid to pull it off is the least destructive, any damage damage on the outside is going to an easier fix than any created when trying to push it out from the inside. Scratching up the inside of the lid , mainspring or arbor bearing will be risk. Just my opinion.
    • yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
×
×
  • Create New...