Jump to content

Fusee English Lever Pocket Watch Reassembly - Part 1


Recommended Posts

As promised, here's the reassembly of the watch who's fusee I posted photos of:

 

First, here's the bottom plate with the fusee, centre wheel, lever, escape wheel & 4th wheel in position:

 

post-687-0-89416400-1425235252_thumb.jpg

 

and the fusee ratchet paw on the top plate:

post-687-0-71862900-1425235257_thumb.jpg

 

The plates are joined & pivots located in their holes & pins replaced. (This watch was a non-runner when I got it & the lever had a rather badly bent pivot which I straightened & I'm hoping this was the only problem stopping it running):

 

post-687-0-35423200-1425235263_thumb.jpg

 

At this stage it's best to fit the 3rd wheel bridge, solely to protect the 4th wheel pivot which also has it's hole in the bridge:

 

post-687-0-46904500-1425235269_thumb.jpg

 

Next fit the barrel:

 

post-687-0-00007400-1425235276_thumb.jpg

 

and the barrel bridge:

 

post-687-0-22234800-1425235279_thumb.jpg

 

Next the fusee chain needs fitting - the hook end goes in the fusee & the pointy barb end in the notch on the barrel

 

post-687-0-65841900-1425235288_thumb.jpg

 

Apologies but it's not possible to photograph the actual chain fitting, but after fitting fit the blued steel barrel ratchet, add some tension (say half a turn of the ratchet) then screw in the ratchet click to hold it in place:

 

post-687-0-28301600-1425236390_thumb.jpg

 

post-687-0-27744900-1425235291_thumb.jpg

 

Now fit the 3rd wheel & replace the bridge:

 

post-687-0-08492400-1425235294_thumb.jpg

 

At this point it's worth winding some chain onto the fusee & check that the lever snaps to & fro with a little movement of it with a cocktail stick...this shows that power is getting through the train. Then the balance wheel can be fitted - the staff has a safety roller & jewel peg like a Swiss lever escapement:

 

post-687-0-74503800-1425236391_thumb.jpg

 

Here the balance cock has been fitted & it's ticking nicely

 

post-687-0-12039900-1425236398_thumb.jpg

 

Part two will come later when I'm satisfied all is well which will take a few days of windings...I'm not 100% happy with it at the moment as after running for a minute or so it kept losing power to the lever & stopping...having said that, after some fiddling it's running now...it could be that the fusee is not giving maintaining power...if it continues to play up I'll have to strip it down again & investigate....anyway, hope that was interesting!

 

 

 

 

 

post-687-0-57119900-1425235283_thumb.jpg

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're doing an excellent job David, both on the watch and the walkthrough. I have two pocket watches that were my fathers, this put me in the mood to do a bit of antique horologising! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sure I read that children used to make the fusee chains as they had good eyesight, maybe someone else could confirm this?

It wouldn't surprise me if they were involved Roger, fusee chains were made using cottage industry in the early days. Edited by Geo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's true so the story goes....frequently by candlelight I heard!

 

I once repaired a broken one by re-riveting links & suddenly developed enormous respect for whoever made them....even with a decent light & a loupe my thumb looked like a raspberry afterwards from hitting it & the swear-box was full.

 

I believe there's a book called "The chain gang" describing the fusee chain industry which I'll treat myself to one day.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Funny, I'm working on one right now. Both the mainspring and the hairspring are broken, not sure how to source parts for such an old watch, but it's part of the fun :)

 

Anyways, do you do anything to the chain before putting it back ? Is lubrication of any sort necessary ? How about cleaning ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi!

I tend to pick up old movements off eBay to harvest parts from, it's the only real way. There's a website oldwatchparts that sometimes has parts. I've made the odd simple part from filing an old bit of steel but wheels, staffs I wouldn't know where to start with!

The chain I soak in petrol for 24hrs then oil with clock oil...I wouldn't know if that's "correct" as such but it seems to work. A really stiff chain needs longer soak & slow gentle working in of oil afterwards. Be careful & work the oil in with the edge uppermost otherwise the chain can become concave.

Hope that helps!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

A nice step by step with good pictures. The pivots on these watches are very important in order for them to run well they need to be burnished. Don't expect the balance to rotate the way a modern watch would these old pocket watches are quite slow in rotation. 

I always cleaned the chain in the watch cleaner and I would oil it by running it through an oiled piece of old clean cloth.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice pics and well done.  Getting the main plates together is very tricky indeed and much patience is required!  I know as I broke a lever pivot on mine and still not got a new staff made.

I found the following book very helpful for all stages or disassembly and assembly of this type of movement. It has a full chapter on English Lever Fusee Movement

THE POCKET WATCH by Christopher Barrow

 

 

Edited by canthus
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • That's one beautiful timepiece! Love the big crown in proportion to the case. Perhaps a ladies' watch, but I don't think so. I have a "modern Ingersoll" watch, but it has nothing to do with the original brand (Miyota 9015 movement). Interesting synonym for synthetic oils! 😆 There is, of course, a limit to how large a volume of oil epilame can bind and hold in place. If the oleophobic effect is too strong then it can become a problem. I'm not sure where I heard or read it, but as I understand it, the active ingredient in a bottle of epilame is extremely small and more than 99% of the contents of the bottle is just a transfer agent. If the active ingredient becomes too concentrated, which it can become over time, or if the product is of poor quality, the oleophobic effect is amplified. This in turn causes the applied oil to look like a gummed-up ball on the surface of the treated part. If that happens, we know that the active ingredient has become too concentrated. What we want is for the oil to bind but not to the point where it is formed into an excessively round ball on the surface. The highlighted text in the patent that you refer to describes well the problem that can arise with too high a concentration of the active ingredient. However, I would be extremely surprised if the entire amount of oil leaves the treated surface as water on wax would. At present, I am convinced that the analogy between wax and water on the one hand and epilame and oil on the other is incorrect. Epilame is described as binding and that is also my absolute experience. Epilame probably has some repelling effect but that is not its main purpose and that is not how epilame is designed and works. The method of abrading the epilame treatment from the section of the pallet stones coming in contact with the escape wheel teeth seems after even more research to be well established, but if it actually works, if so how and why is beyond what I can currently understand. Perhaps it is just to do and trust that it is based on well-established experience. I am, after all, inclined to think so.
    • Sorry to jump in here, but I didn't want to start a new thread when there's already one regarding the second hand watch market. Can anyone tell me what I should be looking at when buying watches from eBay? I see loads on there for quite cheap, but after reading this thread I'm guessing they're all garbage and not worth the time? I recently bought an old Elco watch for 99p, just to practice on. I'm also really fond of the look of Services watches and Smiths Empire watches. I keep seeing them listed for around 5 or 6 pounds. Are they not worth the time buying? I'm not looking to sell watches to make a profit. I just want to buy watches I like the look of and wear them, but I also don't want to buy things that are going to be impossible to find parts for, or that have already been abused by someone else and broken beyond repair. Any tips?
    • I tried the Moebius 9415 from any sensible amount, down to microscopic a drop (or "super minimalistic"); the size of droplet which makes you really wonder why one would/should apply anything at all? But to no avail, consistently a lower amplitude compared to my Dr.Tillwich 1-3. Of course, as John mentioned above, the Dr.Tillwich 1-3, just like the Moebius 9010, likes to go somewhere else. Since short however, I'm the (proud?) owner of a bottle of Moebius Fixodrop. Can't say that I'm a proud owner of the 9415. So far, I haven't seen or discovered the "magic" of the 9415. Meanwhile, Moebius 🤣 has my money though.........
    • I used to be quite active on The Lotus Forum when I owned my Esprit. I was there for so long, Bibs asked me to be a moderator. I'm not sure how long I did that for, but I think I turned into the second longest serving moderator. When I 'handed back my keys', Bibs made me a Full Forum Member. Normally this is a paid membership. My reward I suppose for helping out for many years. Bibs (forum owner) is quite active on there and if I am not wrong, don't quote me in other words, I think he once said that the money from memberships didn't cover the running cost. He adds money himself to keep it going. Does Mark have any sort of subscription scheme on here? I'll admit that I never paid to be a member on TLF. I should have. I never did. I agree that it would be a good idea that there is some sort of contingency plan for this forum. I intend on becoming more active on here. Life has just been getting in the way recently. I enrolled on Mark's watch course and was keenly doing that, but even that has had to take a back seat for a while. I am looking forward to getting back into that and also starting to do work on the clocks that I have been amassing. To do that successfully, I see myself needing to lean on the other members here. If for whatever reason this forum was to close, I think a great many of us would struggle.
    • I think we are about there, if there were still lots out there then the cost of a watch from 5 years ago would be around the same as it is now (allowing for inflation). Given that the price has gone up several times over we can only assume that supply cannot keep up with demand so we must be at or past peak supply, especially if the trend continues. I see even places like Australia, Ukraine and even South America are selling watches on eBay, picking over their stocks, mixed in with fakes and Frankenwatches etc.
×
×
  • Create New...