Jump to content

First Watch Build, Feedback Appreciated

Tom32

By Tom32
in Your Watch Collection

 Share

Recommended Posts

Tom32 Member

Tom32

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

This is my first watch build. I started it in January 2020 with no previous experience of watches or watchmakers tools and it's been quite a learning curve but hugely enjoyable.

It runs on a Miyota 8215 movement that appears to be working well (after a few issues with hands getting stuck).

Total Cost of materials was £115.

I've never owned an automatic watch before so am enjoying wearing this, but I think the dial looks pretty bland without some form of personalisation.

I'd appreciate any thoughts on how it looks now or how others think it could be improved. I've had a great time on this project and am happy with the cost, but would be interested to hear what others think of the total cost of the build, does it seem worth it?

Cheers,

Tom

Watch 1.jpg

Watch 2.jpg

Watch 3.jpg

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites
watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

A nice job very tidy. As far as "was it worth it", In my estimation YES you started knowing very little and now have a better understanding of watch anatomy. In terms of self satisfaction and accomplishment well worth it and you should rightly be proud of your achievement so a resounding   WELL DONE:Bravo:       You want your name printing on the dial where the normal logo goes as this is a first.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tom32 Member

Tom32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, watchweasol said:

WELL DONE:Bravo:       You want your name printing on the dial where the normal logo goes as this is a first.

Thank you very much.

That would be ideal, do you have any recommendations on printing options? I've seen a few tutorials on water transfer prints that looked good.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tom32 Member

Tom32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 minutes ago, JerseyMo said:

it is not so much the cost but more of the reward to know 'you did it'.  of course now you will want to built another and another 

Exactly that, I thought I had finished it a few times in the last two months but it turned out had missed something and needed to order a new part. So to get it finished today and have it actually work was fantastic.

I have the parts for a watch suitable for use in my job on the way which I'm looking forward to putting together. Assuming that goes well, it would be a challenge to try stripping and rebuilding a movement. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
AndyHull Distinguished Member

AndyHull

Posted
Posted
45 minutes ago, Tom32 said:

That would be ideal, do you have any recommendations on printing options? I've seen a few tutorials on water transfer prints that looked good.

The interesting bit is trying to print white on a black dial.
Most modern print methods rely on using dark pigments on a white background (white paper).
There are some options which would allow white, gold, silver etc to be printed on a clear waterslide background, but you would need to do some experiments to see how to do this in practice.
I would suggest you look at laser toner printing and heat transfer films which bond a pigment on to the toner using heat.
There are a couple of dial printing threads on this forum that you might like to explore.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tom32 Member

Tom32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
9 hours ago, AndyHull said:

There are a couple of dial printing threads on this forum that you might like to explore.

I think the word 'interesting' here means challenging! I'll have to track down those threads and see what I need to give it a try, and find out what the heat could do to the dial as it is now.

Thanks Andy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
AndyHull Distinguished Member

AndyHull

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Tom32 said:

and find out what the heat could do to the dial as it is now.

That is not how the process works.

It is more akin to this.
1) Print dial designs on to clear decal slide toner paper with a laser printer, in black toner.

2) Pass said designs, still on the sheet, along with a piece of the metalised or white/coloured heat transfer film through a pouch laminating machine.  This fuses the transfer foil material to the decal paper and you should end up with a decal that has white, gold, bronze or whatever, in the places where your black toner is. 

3) You use the water slide decal in the normal way.

You can use the laser printer to do the heating, if you don't have a pouch laminator, using tape, but this is risky as you may end up with glue from the tape on your laser printer fuser rollers.

Here is one of many guides from the interwebz that shows the process done that way.

https://cedarcanyontextiles.com/outrageous-idea-transfer-foil-to-paper-with-a-laser-printer/

Note, your design is limited by the resolution of the laser printer, and these are typically around 600dpi. Inkjet printers will produce finer detail, but they cannot be used with heat transfer foils, and generally can't print white, unless you go for some very specialised and expensive printers and inks.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tom32 Member

Tom32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 hours ago, AndyHull said:

That is not how the process works.

Ah I see, thank you for the link.

I'll need to decide on the design (and then find the software to create it), but I think this option definitely has legs.

I've ordered a few spare dials so I'll have these to practice on. I'll be sure to post the results.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tom32 Member

Tom32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
4 hours ago, Watchtime said:

really nice project you have completed here. And that without any experience..wow:thumbsu:

Thanks very much, I did have a lot of help from this forum and spent plenty of time trawling the internet for guidance. It's been a hugely satisfying endeavour.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tom32 Member

Tom32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
19 minutes ago, AndyHull said:

Also worth a read is this thread.

Thank you. This is exactly the thread I was looking for. I read it in January but lost the bookmark.

I appreciate the software recommendations as well, looks like a productive weekend ahead!

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • ManSkirtBrew
      Accutron 218 transistors

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      Update: I posted over on NAWCC and it looks like I melted the fine coil wires where they come into the solder lugs. After dropping the heat way down on my iron and being absurdly careful, I have a humming fork!
    • noirrac1j
      Rolex 2235 escape wheel jewel setting replacement

      By noirrac1j · Posted

      Hell0 @nevenbekriev. Thank you for your advice. I have removed the old setting using my staking set--I will keep the KIF spring, since it is still good.  I am awaiting the replacement setting, and will update when I do that. In the mean time, I looked at the escape wheel and it looks ok. What do you think?    
    • Hawaiikook808
      Seitz Tool - Help determine if Seitz or not

      By Hawaiikook808 · Posted

      Aloha All, I recently bought this Seitz tool on eBay, but it is missing some pushers reamers.  I ended up ordering new parts for those that were missing before I received the actual Seitz tool (bad idea).   Upon inspecting the pushers/bits, I noticed 23 of the 56 provided with the set had no numbers. Further inspection revealed a huge difference in the quality of those unnumbered.  Do all Seitz pushers/bits have a number on them?  I'm pretty sure that 33 of the 56 I received are cheap Chinese knockoffs.  The worst part is that I ordered $80 of parts to replace the missing pushers/bits, and now I'm looking to return the tool. I'm not crazy, right? If these are Seitz parts, they should all be numbered, correct? The first two pictures are the Seitz (numbered), and the other pictures are the suspect parts.  Will I even be able to get a refund?  Thanks, Frank     
    • luiazazrambo
      WWW Eterna sucked me in.

      By luiazazrambo · Posted

      It was £10 + min fee, total £16, could not leave it there. Its a Stanton A.D.2. http://stanton-instruments.co.uk/
    • Geotex
      Generic screws for unknown movements

      By Geotex · Posted

      Chief- The picture below shows the three parts from the dial side that are most useful to "fingerprint" a movement in conjunction with the diameter of the movement.  That's why forum participants are always asking for dial side photos in posts asking for identification.  As far as the setting lever screw, it actually sits loose in the main plate. The threads engage the setting lever below, and the elongated stem above the shoulder sticks through a hole in one of the bridge plates so that it's held captive if unscrewed all the way.  So you may be fine as far as that goes. 
×
×
  • Create New...