Jump to content

Making staking anvils

jdm

By jdm
in Tools & Equipment

 Share

Recommended Posts

jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted

I have restored the below which is nice but  a bit quite limited. So I thought of turning few anvils or extra stakes  to complete the set - mainly for show.
What are the essential shapes / sizes that are recommended, and what material? I can also list the included stakes

P1250290.JPG.71b52389e6a0fe7ad79c9267668a15bf.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted

You'll want to get some 4.7mm rod for stakes, for stumps I use 8mm. I don't know what metals are available near you, in the U.S. the standard would be O-1, here the standard for watch parts (and it works fine for tools) is Sandvik 20AP. Sandvik products have become difficult to get and the price has skyrocketed; there is a terrific metal supplier Klein Metals who make equivalents to Sandvik products. Their LAW 100pb is a direct replacement for 20AP, and LAW 100x is a direct replacement for Sandvik's non-leaded replacement for 20AP. All of the above are easily heat treated and very forgivable regarding exact hardening temp (i.e. heat to orange, quench, clean up, and temper to color needed).

http://www.kleinmetals.ch

As for shapes, most useful is a range of fairly simple stumps with varying hole sizes in them. For punches, the most used are convex tip with hole and flat face with hole, in incremental sizes for doing riveting work (staffs), convex with no hole (closing holes), flat tip of varying diameters for knocking out pins etc., and then concave tips which get used less often but can be handy. Any other special shapes are best made up as needed. For one-offs I frequently use brass for stumps, no need in many cases to use steel and do heat treatment.

 

Here's a pic of some of my stumps (and pushers for the jeweling tool), looks like a mess but I know where everything is! The ones in the plexi holder get the most use.

 

 

stumps and pushers.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
vinn3 Distinguished Member

vinn3

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

You'll want to get some 4.7mm rod for stakes, for stumps I use 8mm. I don't know what metals are available near you, in the U.S. the standard would be O-1, here the standard for watch parts (and it works fine for tools) is Sandvik 20AP. Sandvik products have become difficult to get and the price has skyrocketed; there is a terrific metal supplier Klein Metals who make equivalents to Sandvik products. Their LAW 100pb is a direct replacement for 20AP, and LAW 100x is a direct replacement for Sandvik's non-leaded replacement for 20AP. All of the above are easily heat treated and very forgivable regarding exact hardening temp (i.e. heat to orange, quench, clean up, and temper to color needed).

http://www.kleinmetals.ch

As for shapes, most useful is a range of fairly simple stumps with varying hole sizes in them. For punches, the most used are convex tip with hole and flat face with hole, in incremental sizes for doing riveting work (staffs), convex with no hole (closing holes), flat tip of varying diameters for knocking out pins etc., and then concave tips which get used less often but can be handy. Any other special shapes are best made up as needed. For one-offs I frequently use brass for stumps, no need in many cases to use steel and do heat treatment.

 

Here's a pic of some of my stumps (and pushers for the jeweling tool), looks like a mess but I know where everything is! The ones in the plexi holder get the most use.

 

 

stumps and pushers.jpg

  in the US we have "drill rod"  oil or water quench.   i don't know the metal formula,  but it works good for me.   vin

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted
24 minutes ago, vinn3 said:

  in the US we have "drill rod"  oil or water quench.   i don't know the metal formula,  but it works good for me.   vin

That would be O-1 in most cases (oil quench), or W-1 (water quench). Available in any diameter imaginable, at least O-1 is, and flat bars. I wish it was available here as it's dirt cheap, available everywhere (there), and an excellent tool steel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted
Hi NIcklesilver  quite an array of tool stumps, impressive.     It can't be a mess if they are your tools and know where everything is.  It is organised.  stay safe
What keeps it fun is although I'm "independent" I share a workshop with a 4 man company, a numbers guy, a technical guy (designs/engineers the stuff) and two watchmakers. All great guys. The watchmakers are young and poorly tooled, so I give them free reign on my tools, machines, everything. So it does happen that I go for that favorite stump or broach or micrometer or whatever and have to make the rounds to find it. Usually makes for a much needed break!
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • HorologyHead
      Can someone please explain watchmaker service mark interpretation?

      By HorologyHead · Posted

      H Watch Repairers—is there is a ‘standard format’ for the service marks or codes lightly engraved inside cases of pocket watches or wristwatches?   Sometimes I can see there might be a reference to year/ month but other times am confused. I’ve included an image of the rear of a 1951 Hamilton 992B Railroad pocket watch as an example. Thank you for all information you can give, Mike
    • HorologyHead
      Intro

      By HorologyHead · Posted

      Hi to Blackminou29–am a collector/ caretaker—good luck to you following your repair course—with hindsight I wish I’d pursued a career in both watchmaker/ jeweler fields—good luck with whatever career passion you engage.   Thank you Watchweasol for posting the amazing TZIllustratedGlossary! Best wishes, Mike
    • JohnR725
      Seiko 6601 Tech Sheet?

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      yes I noticed the new site and I miss the old site. It's the unfortunate problem of the Internet here today gone tomorrow sometimes some of the stuff gets backed up and sometimes well it does not then the problem with the early Seiko's were there were not necessarily designed for distribution across the planet and as such there is no customer support for them. So trying to find early stuff like technical information or sometimes even parts list for older Seiko is is problematic. But I did find you a you tube video. A quick look he seems to take a heck of a lot of time to actually get to the service single I did not watch all that but it does look like he did disassemble or started to say there's a tiny bit here  
    • HorologyHead
      An intro…

      By HorologyHead · Posted

      RichardHarris123: Hello and welcome from Leeds, England.  I have family all over Australia, went as £10 poms Thanks Richard. Hope you’re able to visit your family here and that they’ve all done well 🙂 My relatives arrived from England in the 1790s transported on the ‘Second & Third Fleets’—a story of timber sailing ships, of convicts and doing well in this huge Country of Australia. When I visited the UK in the 1980s, I was too young to comprehend the depth and breadth of its history…  Best wishes, Mike William Chapman, my 4th great Grandad’s charges, at age 23 read at the Old Bailey; sentenced to 7 years of transportation to Sydney.
    • Endeavor
      New balance staff not riveting to balance

      By Endeavor · Posted

      The whole process and the progress are closely observed, it's hand-driven and very controlled. I can't see the "danger", unless you are watching the TV while doing it. As you could have read, and in this quote "wheel" is the balance-wheel.
×
×
  • Create New...