Jump to content

Seiko case backs


Recommended Posts

I have found a .more  than fair amount  of case back swapability with seiko.  From what I can tell the shape  of the back is dependent  on the type of rotor. Unless that  case back is an absolutely  must have,one from a watch with the same movement  may work until  a match can be found. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone!  I checked out those sites, a lot of parts but, as you all say,  no case backs for those two. I’ve tripped swapping another 6139 back to check the fit (thanks @yankeedog) and it seems to do the job!  I’ve got a few shipment’s off watches coming to me in the following weeks ( yes, I have a serious problem and a depleted credit card :unsure:.) so o should be able to use some of those pieces. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, LonglineOjoe said:

I’ve tripped swapping another 6139 back to check the fit (thanks @yankeedog) and it seems to do the job! 

That is because the Seiko design and manufacturing mandate the largest possible no. of common parts for wattches using the same or similar caliber.

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, LonglineOjoe said:

Thanks everyone!  I checked out those sites, a lot of parts but, as you all say,  no case backs for those two. I’ve tripped swapping another 6139 back to check the fit (thanks @yankeedog) and it seems to do the job!  I’ve got a few shipment’s off watches coming to me in the following weeks ( yes, I have a serious problem and a depleted credit card :unsure:.) so o should be able to use some of those pieces. 

listen be patient and wait for the correct case back for the bullhead. those watches are going up in value every year, they sell for $600+ now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, saswatch88 said:

listen be patient and wait for the correct case back for the bullhead. those watches are going up in value every year, they sell for $600+ now.

That for a mediocre one -_- The desirable ones go for much more.

Will be Seiko able to make a faithful reproduction? It depends on what one calls faithful, if you accept that current 8L35, 6R15, 4R36 based reproductions of beauties of the past are, then there are (remote) chances they will. But they will never, ever go back making the great mov'ts of the past. Well, not even Omega and other big brads do. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, jdm said:

That for a mediocre one -_- The desirable ones go for much more.

Will be Seiko able to make a faithful reproduction? It depends on what one calls faithful, if you accept that current 8L35, 6R15, 4R36 based reproductions of beauties of the past are, then there are (remote) chances they will. But they will never, ever go back making the great mov'ts of the past. Well, not even Omega and other big brads do. 

i believe the repros are overrated, works of art indeed but overrated. One thing i do like is they boost the value of the originals. i.e. the H558 Arnie and the 6105 and 62mas. I purchased 2 6105s in 2017 for $800 and $900. One of them was like NOS with box. I was waiting since 2018 for the re-release since it was the 50 year anniversary, I had a feeling a repro was coming but couldnt wait anymore and sold the one for $1000 last year on watchuseek because I wanted to move on to another watch and i kept the nice one for myself. I sold right before the announced the release of the 6105 i was so pissed. know you cant find a decent one for less than $1500. I saw few sell for $2000+ esp if the serial number is dated pre-1972 during the vietnam era. And Iam not selling mine its a 1971 and its mint all original with box i could prob get 2500 for it but i just cant part with it. And it makes sense because why pay $4000 dollars for a watch when you can buy the original for half, and the same goes for the 62mas, and the 6159.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
    • Oh well, if Master @nickelsilver says it's the way to go, then it is the way to go! I stand corrected! 🫡 Are there any other places where you're supposed to remove the epilame from the contact point of rubbing? I don't think so! Thanks for the effort @Neverenoughwatches, much appreciated! 🙂👍
×
×
  • Create New...