I have a Rotary Monza I am fixing up. I disassembled the barrel and removed and cleaned the mainspring. I secured a copy of the parts list and it shows that as well as the mainspring, there is also a Brake Spring (part 775 on the picture). What is it, and do I really need it? Certainly Cousins does not sell it. I googled AS 1902 brake spring and ONE result came up of a Russian watch forum discussing this item. Apparently it is thicker than a normal spring and it seems to have some sort of bent over feature on it. Can I just make one using the old mainspring? If so, how long should it be? Is it really necessary?
ROTARY Monza AS 1902.pdf
I just recently finished servicing two Omega Speedmaster Reduced (equipped with the ETA 2892-A2 coupled with chrono module Dubois Dépraz 2020) for a couple of friends and both watches are having the same issue. I'm an amateur and just service watches for family and friends.
The automatic work is not fully winding the movement and both watches are stopping after 6 days of use. Very curious that the two watches are showing exactly the same behavior!!
I have tried everything and I'm not being able to get the automatic work to wind the watches for long period of time without the need to give it a manual wind. What else can I do? People wearing the watches are quite active and don't have the same issue with other automatic watches.
See below a measure of the timegrapher for 6 days of wearing the watch without manual winding (except for first day):
Rate Amplitude Day 1 (full manual winding) +20 299 Day 2 +13 280 Day 3 +7 261 Day 4 -23 238 Day 5 -12 211 Day 6 Stopped
Some info regarding the service:
- All parts were carefully washed and carefully oiled as per ETA technical chart
- Replaced mainspring with new one ordered from Cousins (GR25341X). I measured both new and old mainsprings and they are they are the same
- Replaced reversing wheel with new one ordered from Cousins
- Checked the oscillating weight and bearing and all seems fine. There is not looseness and it all seems very aligned and in place
- Oiled the oscillating weight bearing with 4 very small drops of Moebius 9010 on 4 of the metal spheres (don't have much experience on this one, hope it is ok)
- All the automatic work seems to work perfectly when I manually tested the rotation of the oscillating weight with the movement out of the case
Only thing I did not replace yet is the bearing of the oscillating weight. I'm reluctant to do so since current one seems to be just fine and I don't to want spend money for a part that seems to be just fine.
What else can I do?
Hello there watch fix fans. Here's (I hope) an interesting one for you.
I have this beautiful small ladies 'Fero Feldmann' Swiss-made watch - it came in a bag of "used and to be repaired" watches.
From what I can see, the mechanism seems in very good working order. Just a slight shake and it goes and goes. There is no strap, but that is not the issue here.
The problem is the stem and/or crown. As you can see, there is definitely no crown. But I am wondering about the stem.
The watch does have its case and edoes have, as you can see, a hole where the stem and/or crown will/should fit in.
There is something which appears to be some kind of part-stem at the 3 o'clock position.
Using tweezers I can pull it out and push it back in quite freely. A very small screw on top holds this "stem" in place. I think you can see, in ths second photo, how this "stem" attaches to the rest of the movement.
Clearly I need to attach a crown. BUT what about a stem? A stem extension? Or one of those crowns which has an extended stem-like attachment which should fix onto this current "stem" in this watch?
Yes, the watch face is somewhat scratched, and the minute hand is a little bent at the top. You may say it is not worth my while trying to get this fixed. But I just SO MUCH like this little watch and would LOVE to give it life again! It clearly IS still "alive" - though I'm not sure if it is a mechanical wind-up or an automatic. The latter of these seems to be the case - as I said earlier, a little shake and the mechanism goes and goes. PErhaps with a little oil (and lots of encouragement) it can be made good.
So my main question - what kind of stem/crown to attach and how to do it?
I recently serviced a PUW 1561 automatic movement.
This was my first time servicing automatic movement and I am not confident on lubricating barrel wall.
I purchased Moebius 8217, breaking grease for the barrel wall.
The whole service was a quite long process for me so I will just get to my point.
On the cleaned barrel wall, I applied thin layer of 8217 thinking that too much would not do any good.
Then I placed the mainspring and applied 3 drops of Moebius 8200 before closed the barrel cap.
After I had assembled the watch, I tried winding it. It wound well but I could hear the mainspring slip in side the barrel when I felt some tension on the crown as I was winding.
I know that automatic mainspring slips along the barrel wheel but never experienced such 'obvious' slipping sound.
I guess the timegrapher tells that service was not that bad but I just don't feel right when hand winding the watch.
Is it something wrong in the barrel? May be I should have applied the 8217 more thicker?
Thanks for always helping me out.
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The simplest option is placing a glass tumbler upside down on it. Or a larger cover if it's a movement and spread out parts. Anything that will cover and seal reasonably well to prevent dust selling on it.
Please forgive me for the super-simple question, but I'm curious about what the best way is to cover an open movement I'm currently servicing (perhaps if I take an overnight break).
Thanks, vinn3. Hmm...Unimat. I forgot about those. I actually do have an SL1000 that I won in a raffle a couple of years ago. I bought the 3-jaw chuck for it. I didn't think of it because I heard that it wasn't considered precise enough for most watch-work. Crystal work is probably not what they're referring to. So if the 3-jaw on the SL1000 would work, I might be able to do something. Still, I'm not sure of how to order a crystal of sufficient size and thickness to be of use. Oh, and the epoxy idea sounds like something I could work as well. That way I would just have to break those beads/bonds, remove the movement, and then soak the back to remove the epoxy.