I have a Rotary Monza I am fixing up. I disassembled the barrel and removed and cleaned the mainspring. I secured a copy of the parts list and it shows that as well as the mainspring, there is also a Brake Spring (part 775 on the picture). What is it, and do I really need it? Certainly Cousins does not sell it. I googled AS 1902 brake spring and ONE result came up of a Russian watch forum discussing this item. Apparently it is thicker than a normal spring and it seems to have some sort of bent over feature on it. Can I just make one using the old mainspring? If so, how long should it be? Is it really necessary?
ROTARY Monza AS 1902.pdf
I just recently finished servicing two Omega Speedmaster Reduced (equipped with the ETA 2892-A2 coupled with chrono module Dubois Dépraz 2020) for a couple of friends and both watches are having the same issue. I'm an amateur and just service watches for family and friends.
The automatic work is not fully winding the movement and both watches are stopping after 6 days of use. Very curious that the two watches are showing exactly the same behavior!!
I have tried everything and I'm not being able to get the automatic work to wind the watches for long period of time without the need to give it a manual wind. What else can I do? People wearing the watches are quite active and don't have the same issue with other automatic watches.
See below a measure of the timegrapher for 6 days of wearing the watch without manual winding (except for first day):
Rate Amplitude Day 1 (full manual winding) +20 299 Day 2 +13 280 Day 3 +7 261 Day 4 -23 238 Day 5 -12 211 Day 6 Stopped
Some info regarding the service:
- All parts were carefully washed and carefully oiled as per ETA technical chart
- Replaced mainspring with new one ordered from Cousins (GR25341X). I measured both new and old mainsprings and they are they are the same
- Replaced reversing wheel with new one ordered from Cousins
- Checked the oscillating weight and bearing and all seems fine. There is not looseness and it all seems very aligned and in place
- Oiled the oscillating weight bearing with 4 very small drops of Moebius 9010 on 4 of the metal spheres (don't have much experience on this one, hope it is ok)
- All the automatic work seems to work perfectly when I manually tested the rotation of the oscillating weight with the movement out of the case
Only thing I did not replace yet is the bearing of the oscillating weight. I'm reluctant to do so since current one seems to be just fine and I don't to want spend money for a part that seems to be just fine.
What else can I do?
Hello there watch fix fans. Here's (I hope) an interesting one for you.
I have this beautiful small ladies 'Fero Feldmann' Swiss-made watch - it came in a bag of "used and to be repaired" watches.
From what I can see, the mechanism seems in very good working order. Just a slight shake and it goes and goes. There is no strap, but that is not the issue here.
The problem is the stem and/or crown. As you can see, there is definitely no crown. But I am wondering about the stem.
The watch does have its case and edoes have, as you can see, a hole where the stem and/or crown will/should fit in.
There is something which appears to be some kind of part-stem at the 3 o'clock position.
Using tweezers I can pull it out and push it back in quite freely. A very small screw on top holds this "stem" in place. I think you can see, in ths second photo, how this "stem" attaches to the rest of the movement.
Clearly I need to attach a crown. BUT what about a stem? A stem extension? Or one of those crowns which has an extended stem-like attachment which should fix onto this current "stem" in this watch?
Yes, the watch face is somewhat scratched, and the minute hand is a little bent at the top. You may say it is not worth my while trying to get this fixed. But I just SO MUCH like this little watch and would LOVE to give it life again! It clearly IS still "alive" - though I'm not sure if it is a mechanical wind-up or an automatic. The latter of these seems to be the case - as I said earlier, a little shake and the mechanism goes and goes. PErhaps with a little oil (and lots of encouragement) it can be made good.
So my main question - what kind of stem/crown to attach and how to do it?
I recently serviced a PUW 1561 automatic movement.
This was my first time servicing automatic movement and I am not confident on lubricating barrel wall.
I purchased Moebius 8217, breaking grease for the barrel wall.
The whole service was a quite long process for me so I will just get to my point.
On the cleaned barrel wall, I applied thin layer of 8217 thinking that too much would not do any good.
Then I placed the mainspring and applied 3 drops of Moebius 8200 before closed the barrel cap.
After I had assembled the watch, I tried winding it. It wound well but I could hear the mainspring slip in side the barrel when I felt some tension on the crown as I was winding.
I know that automatic mainspring slips along the barrel wheel but never experienced such 'obvious' slipping sound.
I guess the timegrapher tells that service was not that bad but I just don't feel right when hand winding the watch.
Is it something wrong in the barrel? May be I should have applied the 8217 more thicker?
Thanks for always helping me out.
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Looks like a fun project. I suspect there is little that would stop it passing modern electrical safety standards, so long as it is earthed, has the correct rated fuse, and a suitable mains cable attached. How does the speed controller work? Some of these old speed controllers use an interesting arrangement of compressible carbon disks as a variable resistor. I have an old Singer sewing machine that uses this arrangement, and a slightly newer Kenwood Chef mixer that uses a triac speed controller. Both are 1970s vintage, and both work well. I would inspect any capacitors associated with the motor assuming there are any, and perhaps replace those with modern suitably rated ones, but the rest I would suspect is fine. If the motor runs, then it will probably keep running. If this is a brushed motor, you might like to take the opportunity to clean the commutator with a bristle brush (not a steel wire one) and inspect the motor carbon brushes too. If the brushes are badly worn or damaged, they can kill the commutator pretty quickly.
When working with small metal parts, (not necessarily watch parts, but this applies with those too), I will superglue the part to something I can easily hold, for example plastic card stock, or some other metal, then file away, drill, etc. then dissolve the superglue in acetone to remove the part.
A bit of a classic Timex. So much so that Timex recently released a Snoopy version of the new Miyota automatic based Marlins, and a bunch of other self homages in the Peanuts Charlie Brown, Snoopy & Friends range. This more petite version, I'm guessing from the mid seventies, is the one I remember from my childhood, blue dial and all. It is heading in my direction as a "non runner" (no surprises there), and I was the only bid at £1.93
I have recently purchased a National, Electric Watch Cleaning Machine. Attached is a photo for reference and identification of the model type. As can be seen, it has a fairly typical design, reminiscent of many other types, particularly Elma Super Elite. In fact, I do wonder which came first - the National or the Elma. My musings on this point later. This is a very old machine, circa late 1940’s, 1950’s, but they seem to turn up sometimes on eBay, in various conditions ranging from the “beyond hope” and only really suitable as a donor for parts, and the “old but serviceable” and might-be-worth-a-punt-on machines. This one fell into the middle somewhere, as it was a bit tatty and the heating element did not work. On the plus side, it had all its original cleaning fluid jars and lids, and the motor and speed control gave smooth, controllable spinning and no play in the bearings. I went to visit the seller to inspect it and we did a deal on the spot. This is not always possible on eBay, but as the seller had listed it as for collection only (due to its weight), it was a possibility on this occasion. Once I had it home and gave it the once over, I decided that I would have to either do without heating for the drying stage, or find a replacement element. At the same time, it was very obvious that all of the original cabling was not safe to leave in place and it would all have to be removed and replaced. Any other electrical parts deemed unsafe would also be replaced as I inspected them. So - the idea of a restoration (of sorts) was born. Now - it is not my intention to restore it to the point where it could pass current electrical safety standards, but I will be making it as safe as possible, without losing any of the essential character of the original machine. This is not going to be for resale, so being safe to use is an acceptable compromise, in my opinion. I will however, perform testing on it once the electrical work is done, to make sure that the essential aspects of earth leakage, earth bonds and polarity etc. are passed. (PAT Testing included.) Whilst this is not likely to turn into another example of a superb restoration of an Elma Super Elite (as seen elsewhere on these forums), I hope at least to have at the end of it, a perfectly serviceable watch cleaning machine, and a restoration story - of sorts - of a vintage piece of English watch making and servicing machinery. So first off - the before pictures. This one is a good view of the machine and its cosmetic condition, as purchased. The base is a heavy, cast alloy jobbie, with its original crackle paint job beginning to flake away in places, where the years of cleaning chemicals have attacked it, but generally sound. The jars still had residues of cleaning and rinse chemicals present. The first wash jar (front left), was particularly grotty and can’t have been cleaned for years. Fairly ironic not to clean the thing, that cleans the things! Maybe it was just left unused and unloved for many years. The mains cable was a cloth-bound type I have not seen in years and could well have been original as it still had the old UK wiring standard colours of red/black/green. Also adding to the vintage-ness, was a very old, Bakelite three pin plug. This must have been one of the first of its type as I have not seen one in brown Bakelite before! (And I am 62...) Anyway, that’s enough for now, as I’m not even sure anyone wants to read much about such an old machine. If anyone is interested though, please add comments and I’ll add to the story as I make progress. At the very least, I hope I have found a potential solution to finding/ making your own heating elements for these old machines, which could also include providing replacements for Elma Super Elite, RM80/90 HCS511 etc. Machines. More details later...