Lubricants to use with Rolex 3135
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A quick addition: Given when I measured the springs I got 1.5 x 0.06 I thought I'd figure out how long they are. I was able to do this from a photograph taken immediately above. The program Inkscape has a nice extension that allows measuring the length of a beizer curve, so I drew one along the length of the spring. It's 220mm. And 1.5 x 0.06x 220 x 7.0 does appear in the catalogue. It would also explain the lower amplitude I'm seeing. Doesn't immediately solve anything, but the information is nice.
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That's because it's not a cannon pinion and just a centre tube. If this was the fault I still wouldn't have expected it to run without the balance. Edit @TimepieceTinkerer To clarify. Did you test the train ran smoothly with everything tightened down before fitted the fork and balance?
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By TimepieceTinkerer · Posted
You're absolutely right — normally, a missing or even removed cannon pinion wouldn't stop the train from running or the movement from ticking. Just to clarify: the part I’m referring to isn’t the removable cannon pinion on the center wheel — it’s the fixed pinion that’s pressed into the mainplate underneath, which drives the motion works. I may have misused the term earlier. That pinion was loose in my case, and it caused the fourth wheel to sit out of alignment, which jammed the train when the bridge was fully tightened. Once I tightened that fixed pinion with the staking set, everything seated correctly and the issue was resolved. Appreciate your input — and thanks for helping me describe it more accurately. -
I have an Amscope zoom with 0.5X Barlow, which gives about 10X - 20X mag, which I find perfect for general work. I would definitely go for zoom. Working depth is about 160mm. It's worth considering a camera option - useful for taking pics when dismantling.
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By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
I'm still not sure why the cannon pinion would cause this issue. With no cannon pinion at all the train can run and the movement tick. Anyway you have it fixed, so that's good.
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